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P400 in the Burb install

Will L. said:
Just measure the volume. If there is a restriction in the pump or the lines it will show up. pressure only exists because of resistance to flow which is at the injectors. Open lines equals no pressure. You don’t care about pressure here- over thinking it.

If you get unequal volume, remove and inspect lines.
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All lines had brake cleaner shot through then 120PSI shop air before install.
 
Yea,I still have your old head and rotor. I didn't realise you had many miles on this pump . I know it looks suspicious ,that the pump did work and know doesn't. Its either inj timing or actual dead cyls. Since you have a pulse adapter check inj timing. Keep in mind the online specs will be wrong,since that is for actual ignition timing.
 
I probably put 1000 miles on the pump that the was originally built with the .350 plungers and it ran fine just not enough fuel, then since I had a PS valve cover gasket leak I removed the pump and set it to Conestoga and they worked on it and sent it back and now I have two dead cylinders, I don't think it's in the engine. I have a cheap ass timing light so I don't think it is accurate. What should the timing be set at in your opinion?
 
I can't remember, but it will be alot higher than checking at the glowplug hole. I just set it high enough so it don't smoke white at idle. I set the pump at the stock line,and then fiddle with the charge psi and the retard cam ,to get idle timing right.
 
6.2 turbo said:
Yea,I still have your old head and rotor. I didn't realise you had many miles on this pump . I know it looks suspicious ,that the pump did work and know doesn't. Its either inj timing or actual dead cyls. Since you have a pulse adapter check inj timing. Keep in mind the online specs will be wrong,since that is for actual ignition timing.
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Dennis, was that head and rotor a 4 plunger?
 
The reason I asked is I still have the housing that they sent me back and it's a DB2 housing and I new the housing I sent them was a DB4 I'm glad those lying bastards (PENINSULAR DIESEL) went out of business! Did you ever put it to use?
 
Well I went and bought a new compression tester and tested cylinders 1,2 6 and 8 and they are all @425 while I was at it I swapped injectors from #1 inj to #6 cyl and #2 cyl to #8 cyl and then #8 to #2cyl and #6 inj to # 1 cyl I hope you can understand that and I started it, I went to grab my phone to shoot a video of what I was doing and the engine shut off. It appears that the shut off solenoid has failed, it has 12.97 volts to it put it does not make a sound and now I can't get any fuel out of any injector line. My intentions were to remove all of the injectors and put small clear bottles on all of the lines and crank it over to compare the fuel discharge from the pump to each line but with the shut off solenoid failure I can't do that now. I tried to call Mel @ Conestoga today but I could not get anyone on the phone maybe due to the holiday, I will try again tomorrow
 
I used the cam ring and pin. Its very rare for the shut off solenoid to fail. Only ever had one go bad. If you dont want to take the top off,check amp draw ,should be 2 or 3 amps.
 
spdgofast said:
Chris, do you mean connecting the injector to the line but not in the head and see what the spray pattern looks like? I don't think I want to spray that much diesel all over my engine compartment and shop floor
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LOL, well yes and no.... no to the mess, yes remove the injectors and loosen the lines so the lines can be moved and re tighten them, ut the offending injector in a plastic bottle with a rag in the bottom, bump the starter over, when the injector sprays you should get a whoosh from that cylinder also, if not something is a miss....
 
Well I can't do anything until the fuel shut off solenoid is replaced or whatever is causing the POS IP from putting out any fuel.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
LOL, well yes and no.... no to the mess, yes remove the injectors and loosen the lines so the lines can be moved and re tighten them, ut the offending injector in a plastic bottle with a rag in the bottom, bump the starter over, when the injector sprays you should get a whoosh from that cylinder also, if not something is a miss....
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If I do this with just the two injectors while the other injectors are still in the heads the engine will start and it will be hard determine how many pulse cycles go by.
 
Well as usual no good news for me, I just pulled the IP and took the cover off the side and the head and rotor is seized, no warranty from the pump builder. Probably had 20-25 min of run time.
 
That sucks,so much for the .350 plunger. A good .310 pump is all you really need,and is capable of more cc's than your .350 pump was putting out.
 
I actually think there was an issue with cyl 2 also, that's what I was going for my phone to shoot a video of when the rotor seized and the engine shut of. I had pulled the exhaust manifold so I could see which cylinder was putting out what appeared to be unburnt fuel. So with the exhaust manifold pulled and the motor at idle there was what looked like sooted up fuel running out of cylinder 2, although when I cracked the injector line on that cyl it stopped firing like all of the others except 1 & 8. Also when I put my hand near the exhaust port discharge #8 was cold but 2 ,4 &6 was hot, yet # 2 had what looked like unburnt sooted up fuel dribbling out the exhaust port.
 
So what did you have done to this pump this time? And what was the reason for no warranty on the work? and did they ever tell you what they did and what amount of fuel they claim it would deliver?
 
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