• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

P400 in the Burb install

If I do it it will be adding a 1/2" pickup line to the existing OEM pickup assembly or I was thinking if I could find a real low profile sump assembly and try to put it between the tank and the factory skid plate but it would probably have to be like a 1/2-5/8 profile to try and sandwich it between the tank and the skid plate. Does anyone know if the fuel tank out of like a 2500 gas Suburban 4x4 would be the same as the one in my diesel suburban? Just thinking I could save my tank and bucher a doner tank.
 
spdgofast said:
If I do it it will be adding a 1/2" pickup line to the existing OEM pickup assembly or I was thinking if I could find a real low profile sump assembly and try to put it between the tank and the factory skid plate but it would probably have to be like a 1/2-5/8 profile to try and sandwich it between the tank and the skid plate. Does anyone know if the fuel tank out of like a 2500 gas Suburban 4x4 would be the same as the one in my diesel suburban? Just thinking I could save my tank and bucher a doner tank.
Click to expand...
Tank listings show different part numbers.
Have you considered just a AN-8 fuel cell 'through fitting' for your existing tank? I suspect it might work!
 
WarWagon said:
BAD IDEA!!! The return has to be submerged in fuel or the fuel system will siphon the fuel back to the tank resulting in hard cold starts after a long overnight sit. The fuel system will be full of air every morning and need to be re-primed. This is why GM spent a nickel on the submerged in tank fuel return hose.
Click to expand...
"I maybe missing something here as I suffer from "some-timers" but I transfer fuel from my aux tank exactly into the main tanks fuel fill as I drive for many years now and never ever had such an issue? So why would the small fuel return cause an issue? Lest we forget the fuel gets sloshed around the tank and surely air bubbles do form unless foam or bronze wool are incorporated into the tank like in a fuel cell.
 
Checkout posts 16 and 17 in the following thread.

Working on a "next-level" fuel system

I am starting this thread a few weeks before I planned to, but the topic has come up in one of my other threads, so the timing made sense now so the topic could really get explored. In my other thread http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/going-mechanical-with-a-moose-omega-marine-ip.45204/...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
One of the reasons that I am shying away from the "ADVANCED BOOST REFERENCED, DEDICATED RETURN, ADJUSTABLE FPR SYSTEM" is that there is 12 different points that could possibly leak fuel just on the FPR, along with the fact that there is no data to show that it will perform better than a straight feed to the pump. So in a race vehicle or dyno queen it's maybe worth trying, but on a daily driver used to take cross country trips when no additional headaches are needed, probably not in my opinion.
 
spdgofast said:
Checkout posts 16 and 17 in the following thread.

Working on a "next-level" fuel system

I am starting this thread a few weeks before I planned to, but the topic has come up in one of my other threads, so the timing made sense now so the topic could really get explored. In my other thread http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/going-mechanical-with-a-moose-omega-marine-ip.45204/...
www.thetruckstop.us
Click to expand...
Like I suspected I had a brain fa_t thinking about something entirely different "my BAD!"
 
If you have a dedicated regulator that has a return/bypass line off of it you don't have to worry about it siphoning off when it sits overnight. You can also have it feed into the filler neck with no issues. I have a system setup like that on my stepside. Can sit for months and have no issues.

The other nice thing about a full flow bypass is the pump can run flat our and the engine just pulls what it needs.
 
Well I did a preliminary start and run of the engine without the intake manifold to make sure I had no leaks as I always do and the motor is not firing on all 8 cylinders. So the only changes made since it last ran was Conestoga pump work and I had the injector pop pressures reset. I connected my SnapOn pulse adapter and light to every injector line and I get a pulse signal on all 8 cyl. So I'm guessing I have a injector failure. Any suggestions on trying to find the dead cyl? If it was a Cummins I would just spray water on the exhaust manifold and run it and see which one stayed cool but I don't think that will work on my manifolds since they have been ceramic coated. Here's a video of it running. Well I took a video with my phone but I can't upload it, not sure what I'm doing wrong. It shows some smoke puffing out the passenger side center port on the head. How do I attach a video like others have?
 
Crack injector nuts one at a time. The dead cylinder will not make the same change as The others.

Then take the dead cylinder injector and switch it with another one. If the failure follows the injector- then its the injector. If not, then it could be the ip, injector line, or it is that cylinder. Wether rings, valves, or gasket leak.
 
Yea, just wondering why the PS EGR port is puffing and the DS is not. Is that a tell tail sign of anything on the PS bank? I don't believe I ever get anything like this when the engine is running properly.
 
The egr port is tied to only one cylinder so move the # 4 injector and see if it follows the skip, if no change move the # 6 injector and check... it's a dead hole so rule out the injectors first before moving to the IP... the smoke is unburnt fuel....
 
Put the intake on so you can rev it up. It could also be retarted timing.
 
One thing that I kind of thought was weird was when I was preparing to start the engine for the first time before I removed the masking tape from the intake ports on the heads I connected my hand held starter switch to the starter and I just bumped the starter to make sure the switch was connected properly. Like I said I just bumped the starter and I heard a loud pop, it was the tape on #6 cylinder, why would there be positive pressure to a intake port? Keep in mind I had not even turned on the lift pump to bleed the air from the fuel filter so there should not have been any fuel in the cylinder. The motor ran fine when I took it apart, only reasons were a valve cover leak and turn up the fuel.
 
I addressed that issue when I installed them, at least I think I did. I bought special shims I think from McMaster Carr and made sure every rocker moved freely. And I don't think any of them could over power a valve spring, I believe my valve springs are shimmed to 100 lbs if my memory serves me right. And I recently turned the engine over by hand to install the IP bolts on the gear.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top