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Opinions needed - Performed Optical Bump

Ok controller is fully wired up. Connected to the WIF light in the cluster too. Tested with key on and all works. I can even tell by the WIF light how often my compressor cycles while on the road now!!
controller temp is set to 190.
Time for a road test! 🙂

Here’s some pics…. Don’t mind the ratchet strap. It’s my shameful way of pulling the shroud away from the fan till I get the mounts in!

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
If there is water in the fuel, can back feeding electricity into the circuit-can it mess it up? Did you add a diode to stop the flow?

One of the huge advantage is you can add a switch on the dash to force the fan on for big hills and such. Just get add a light by the switch.
 
the whole WIF circuit was disconnected when I removed the FFM and installed a remote fuel filter. that filter doesn't have a sensor. the light is only connected to the fan controller at the moment. it's just temporary until I decide where to install a switch and light in the dash.

even the controller is temporarily zip tied next to the battery until I get the mounts in and situate the shroud where I don't have to have something pulling on the shroud to clear the blade. once the mounts are in and the shroud fits with the fan, I plan to mount the controller on the shroud and run some wire loom over all the wiring.

I already see I have too many connections around that battery where I want to get a nice fuse block and ground bus bar to put on the inner fender in that area and make everything look professional!! I've already added a nice fuse block under the dash for the extra crap I added in the cab. center console stuff and back seat phone chargers lol.
 
If only AAP would price match that lol
Ask! Both our local AAP and O'Reilly's stores (several of each in town, as well as AZ🤮), if they can't match RA on price on exact same item/manufacturer as RA, they can come so close that not paying the RA shipping and getting it then, is well worth not waiting 3-4 days, plus shipping. Just ask if they'll price match RA for the exact same item/mfr#. Here in Nebraska we pay the same sales tax regardless if it's an in-person or internet purchase, so paying $2 more live, than paying less including shipping, but having to wait 3-4 (or more) days to get it is worth it if you need to be back on the road that day or for work Monday morning!
 
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Well, I finally took to truck on a road test. I drove it pretty hard at one point rapping the engine almost to the beginning of the redline. the fan clutch did not break loose! looks like I will be returning it and getting the delco one! just gotta wait for further funding.

I also noticed my temp gauge in the dash went up a tic on the dial when I was accelerating but came back down as soon as I let off the pedal. not sure if that movement was due to the electronics or the temp actually rose up then. still need to get and install a real gauge on the truck.
 
Got to drive around town today. all seemed to be ok, but I noticed while idling my temp gauge started climbing a little. it normally sits about 2 marks below the 1/4 mark. sitting still the gauge went up to the 1/4 mark and seemed to stay there heading back home. This was while the AC was on. other than the new WP and clutch with fan, the only thing I did different was I disconnected the one pusher fan i have for the AC and wired in to the controller. checked with the temp gun at various places, I was looking at 195 deg. (180 tstat installed) turned off the AC and hit the high idle switch and within a few minutes the light went off I wired into the controller and temp was down to 185.

I know the AC had some play in this but I am curious if this WP has lower flow at idle speed. I do remember reading somewhere that the fan also pulls less air at idle than the steel fan. even though my clutch seems to be locked in all the time which I already know it needs to get returned and swapped for the GM one. I am going to ride this clutch for a bit until funding allows me to order the GM one.
 
Something else has sparked my curiosity on this EV clutch. being that I can unlock it by holding the fan on startup and when I apply power to it, it will engage just fine. it just wont unlock afterwards.

my experience with a standard thermal clutch is that the bi-metal coil adjustment is off causing the trouble. I didn't pay much for this ev clutch. has anyone ever taken one apart? mainly the area where the electronics and bi-metal coil is? these things are mass produced so a minor adjustment might fix it.

the cheapo thermal clutch I has gotten from amazon before I did this upgrade (returned it for credit) I was also able to unlock it by hand but the drag from the fan would not. basically it was doing the same as this ev clutch.
 
Well I finally ordered new mounts and a Delco ev fan clutch. Showed it’s supposed to arrive on Tuesday so you can guess that I’ll be doing next week!! At least I remembered to use the discount code on RA this time lol.
 
New Ac Delco fan clutch and motor mounts arrived yesterday! Installed the fan clutch.. this thing was really stiff. at first I couldn't get it to break loose ether until I decided to wrap that belt around the fan and crank it up. it took a bit to "break" it loose, but once it did. removed the belt and tried it. it seems to take slightly longer the lock in, but it does work.. raising the rpm up to 2k and it breaks loose. so this is a plus. I'll have to drive it to see how it's working. I may have to put off installing the motor mounts a few days as it has rained here and I don't feel like wollering in the mud to install them lol
 
The old ones weren’t that terrible but I can definitely tell the engine is sitting up more
The greasy mount was on the driver’s side 3B8B1FCF-8ADD-4ED1-8E35-DF7A239793C7.jpeg2ADAA4C2-97BA-4F4F-877E-8522CB6E5DFB.jpeg
 
Hey fellas. today for what ever reason I had something eating at me that made me want to connect the scanner and check for codes.
Don't ask me why, idk.... the truck has been running fine with no hiccups other than the random rattle - knock knock -rattle of a worn out motor! Yeah I know, if it ain't broke don't fix it lol I figured what harm would it do to just look at the PCM codes if any has shown up in the past few weeks. well low n behold it showed a code in history for the tranny. code 81 - shift 2-3 circuit and the fluke one that keeps popping up for the app sensor.

I just shrugged my shoulders and went to clear them, as the trans has been shifting fine and I didn't think much about it. here's where I should have stopped...

in order to clear the tranny code I had to disconnect the batteries... I pulled the neg cable off each one, opened the door and turned the key on and held the brake pedal for about 30 seconds. I have gotten into a habit of doing that on just about every vehicle I work on... reconnected the batteries and cranked her up. all seemed good as before. rechecked codes to verify they were clear. had to set the clock on the radio too!

Shortly after I was done the wife came out and said hey we gotta go run an errand in town. so we hop in the truck and take off....

here is where things get weird.... as I accelerate slowly down our road I notice a strange sound coming from the engine bay, some kind of hissing. and I'm like WTF now! I broke something lol

we turn onto another road where I can open up the throttle more and I'm thinking to myself what did I do. I should have left it alone. my wife is shaking her head with a sarcastic chuckle as if "here we go again".

this sound is like when you hear someone sucking through a straw as hard as they can. like a major vacuum leak or air pressure blowing out of a small hole. the harder you press the throttle, the harder and more pronounced it is!

I get back to the house, pop the hood and look things over while it's idling. checked the turbo vacuum lines to the solenoid and to the pump as far as i could without digging any tools out. everything looked fine. even popped off the hose from the turbo to see if it had vacuum. all good. looked around both batteries since that was the only thing I touched. nothing...

had my soon to be son n law come out and hold the pedal steady at around 15-1700 rpm while I looked and listened.. all I can find is a rather pronounced hisssssssss coming from the passenger side of the engine. it's loud enough that when driving it drowns out the engine sound in the cab! all I can think of is my vacuum pump just 💩 the bed or I instantly got a massive exhaust leak.

anyone have any ideas?
 
Hey fellas. today for what ever reason I had something eating at me that made me want to connect the scanner and check for codes.
Don't ask me why, idk.... the truck has been running fine with no hiccups other than the random rattle - knock knock -rattle of a worn out motor! Yeah I know, if it ain't broke don't fix it lol I figured what harm would it do to just look at the PCM codes if any has shown up in the past few weeks. well low n behold it showed a code in history for the tranny. code 81 - shift 2-3 circuit and the fluke one that keeps popping up for the app sensor.

I just shrugged my shoulders and went to clear them, as the trans has been shifting fine and I didn't think much about it. here's where I should have stopped...

in order to clear the tranny code I had to disconnect the batteries... I pulled the neg cable off each one, opened the door and turned the key on and held the brake pedal for about 30 seconds. I have gotten into a habit of doing that on just about every vehicle I work on... reconnected the batteries and cranked her up. all seemed good as before. rechecked codes to verify they were clear. had to set the clock on the radio too!

Shortly after I was done the wife came out and said hey we gotta go run an errand in town. so we hop in the truck and take off....

here is where things get weird.... as I accelerate slowly down our road I notice a strange sound coming from the engine bay, some kind of hissing. and I'm like WTF now! I broke something lol

we turn onto another road where I can open up the throttle more and I'm thinking to myself what did I do. I should have left it alone. my wife is shaking her head with a sarcastic chuckle as if "here we go again".

this sound is like when you hear someone sucking through a straw as hard as they can. like a major vacuum leak or air pressure blowing out of a small hole. the harder you press the throttle, the harder and more pronounced it is!

I get back to the house, pop the hood and look things over while it's idling. checked the turbo vacuum lines to the solenoid and to the pump as far as i could without digging any tools out. everything looked fine. even popped off the hose from the turbo to see if it had vacuum. all good. looked around both batteries since that was the only thing I touched. nothing...

had my soon to be son n law come out and hold the pedal steady at around 15-1700 rpm while I looked and listened.. all I can find is a rather pronounced hisssssssss coming from the passenger side of the engine. it's loud enough that when driving it drowns out the engine sound in the cab! all I can think of is my vacuum pump just 💩 the bed or I instantly got a massive exhaust leak.

anyone have any ideas?
Oh my God, Big T is going to explode. :)

Seriously, an exhaust leak will likely have the sound of each cyl. Pull the vac line off the turbo acuator and put your finger on it to see if there is a steady suction on it.
 
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