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Opinions needed - Performed Optical Bump

I looked at our local auto parts online and there running about $125. amazon shows a dorman one for $83 with one day delivery.
 
I found the problem!! the drivers side doughnut on the manifold to crossover has a pin hole pointed right at the oil filter!

driving home from work I ran with the windows down listening. it seemed to be coming from under the truck vs in the front area when under acceleration. got home and crawled underneath feeling and looking. And damned if I had forgot about my patch job on that doughnut where one of the studs had been broken off. my patch I did about a year ago finally gave way.

well that's a relief in a way but not so much as I am going to need to pull the manifold and fix it right. it's gonna be a guarantee that the other two studs are gonna break off when I attempt to remove it. plus I might as well pull the passenger side too. not looking forward to this! all the wile hoping a praying the manifold to head bolts don't break off too!

@Stoney back when you were replacing your tranny, did you try those flange repair kits on your crossover pipe? I seem to recall you mentioning those three bolt flange repair kits like these.

1644447712209.png 1644447746875.png
 
I found the problem!! the drivers side doughnut on the manifold to crossover has a pin hole pointed right at the oil filter!

driving home from work I ran with the windows down listening. it seemed to be coming from under the truck vs in the front area when under acceleration. got home and crawled underneath feeling and looking. And damned if I had forgot about my patch job on that doughnut where one of the studs had been broken off. my patch I did about a year ago finally gave way.

well that's a relief in a way but not so much as I am going to need to pull the manifold and fix it right. it's gonna be a guarantee that the other two studs are gonna break off when I attempt to remove it. plus I might as well pull the passenger side too. not looking forward to this! all the wile hoping a praying the manifold to head bolts don't break off too!

@Stoney back when you were replacing your tranny, did you try those flange repair kits on your crossover pipe? I seem to recall you mentioning those three bolt flange repair kits like these.

View attachment 71744 View attachment 71745
When I replaced the CO pipe on My truck, broke one bolt, left side flange.
I messed with removing the exhaust manifold but the couple of bolts I tried to remove were seized in quite tight and I figured that I’d most likely break several of those too.
Decided that drilling all the way through and adding a nut to the top side of the CO flange was a lot simpler.
 
haha! she's been sitting under the pecan tree for a gooood while. 99 model and just about the last of her kind to still have the old cast iron 318 v8. lol she's out lasted just about every vehicle we've had :) gave her a bath with the power washer and topped off all the fluids, ready for her state inspection and license renewal. She'll be my DD for a little while so I can park my beast and get some much needed work and tlc done.
 
I forgot to post an update on Ole' Betsey.... my future son n law took her to work one day week before last while his Challenger was in the shop for a coolant leak. as he was gettin on the on-ramp of the IH-35 freeway she gave him the "death wobble" !! He babied her home and had been parked in front of the house since. I have to get underneath and see what came loose.
 
Hey Guys, I have a quick question.. this time on starters. lately I have noticed my current starter seemingly getting slightly slower cranking, especially when the engine is already warmed up good. still starts fine, but also noticed in the cooler mornings cranking it up it seems to barely fire up. almost like it stumbles for a split second then comes alive.

I'm thinking I will be in the market for a powermaster starter as a replacement hoping this one will last me till the end of October when funds are available.

having that said, as you might recall my block is busted at the outer boss where the starter bolt is. it's been welded and helicoiled and still holding together but.....

where they welded it and repaired the threads (before I owned the truck) the mounting surface at that ear of the block where the starter sits is not flat. Its kinda rough and slightly recessed. I was reading up on a thread here that @WarWagon started about the powermaster starter and it's RPM over the stock one. I read where @Will L. talked about a split housing on the starter from a pebble or something getting between the mounting surfaces on post 15


Question is: should I uses something like JB weld or would anyone have any suggestions on what I can use just to make that area flat and take the pressure being squished when the starter is torqued down before attempting to get and mount a high torque one on the engine?

reading on the install instructions for the powermaster starter, it clearly states to clean and verify the mounting surfaces are "Flat" this is my worry.

my end game plan is to get the starter replaced and hopefully use the old one if it has any life left to do compression testing and what not on the 6.2 I have sometime this winter. then once I get around to having this 6.2 ready, (hoping it's useable) taking the powermaster and using it on the 6.2 going into the truck.
 
Drop the starter and take pictures of the surface- some pics with and some without a straight edge on it.

While the starter is off, clean the cable end and connector posts.
Bench test it to make sure it works ok without a load on it.
 
Right now it’s still starting in the first try. Just noticed this seemingly slower cranking recently. I will take pictures. Just afraid to pull it right now with it still functioning lol. My biggest fear is the repairs done breaking when it’s pulled lol. I’ve always had the thought in the back of my mind that when this starter dies. The engine dies with it !!
 
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