dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Is a 150 amp good amp rating?
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Opinions needed - Performed Optical Bump
- Thread starter dbrannon79
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Depends on the output of the alternator. Mine was rated at 200
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Try these. First one's 150 Amp 12VDC the other is 200 Amp 12VDC. You want the breaker to match the total load put on the alternator or alternator rated max output, whichever is lower. If the fusible section of your primary charging wire from the alternator is getting hot, you're drawing too big of a load through it, not that the alternator is putting out "too many amps". The alternator puts out the amps the system is demanding until the batteries reach full charge while the engine and accessories are running.
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dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well I’m just guessing here but looking at rock auto an 03 burb with a 6.0l v8 has two options an 105 amp and a 145 amp. Looking at the photos it looks exactly like the 145 amp from Bosch. The only markings on the one I pulled is a reman sticker with a barcode number that a Google search reveals nothing and the word “Delphi electronics” stamped on the front of the case.
going on a limb but I feel safer with a 150 vs a 200 amp breaker when thinking of a meltdown lol
I was gonna leave the charge wire it has in place and add the new one with the breaker but after thinking more about it, I think it would be better and safer to reroute that charge wire to go from the battery to the junction box and only have the one heavier wire from the alt to the junction box with the resettable breaker inline
going on a limb but I feel safer with a 150 vs a 200 amp breaker when thinking of a meltdown lol
I was gonna leave the charge wire it has in place and add the new one with the breaker but after thinking more about it, I think it would be better and safer to reroute that charge wire to go from the battery to the junction box and only have the one heavier wire from the alt to the junction box with the resettable breaker inline
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Hey guys. I just had something catch my eye today on the way home. I haven’t had any cooling issues but took noticed when I put the truck into a heavier load accelerating my temp gauge climbed from the normal 1/4 mark to slightly 1-1/2 mark higher. Then after letting off the throttle it came back down to about one mark above the 1/4 mark. Pulled into the driveway and idled for a minute and it settled back to the 1/4 mark on the gauge.
fan clutch is working, I can hear the roar lol
am I just seeing things?
I’ve been sitting here reading on the forums here looking on the consensus of running a 180 t-stat and came across a thread talking about a heater shutoff valve being bad for our engine. There is a hand crank valve that the PO had installed which I actually keep closed during the summer because I get heat in the cab with it open!
Things I’m wondering... could I possibly still have air in the system when I changed my heater hoses and flushed the system? If so is there a procedure to burp the system? Is what I just saw from my gauge just a fluke of my imagination or is that a sign my t-stat might be failing?
I have the single t-stat setup btw.
fan clutch is working, I can hear the roar lol
am I just seeing things?
I’ve been sitting here reading on the forums here looking on the consensus of running a 180 t-stat and came across a thread talking about a heater shutoff valve being bad for our engine. There is a hand crank valve that the PO had installed which I actually keep closed during the summer because I get heat in the cab with it open!
Things I’m wondering... could I possibly still have air in the system when I changed my heater hoses and flushed the system? If so is there a procedure to burp the system? Is what I just saw from my gauge just a fluke of my imagination or is that a sign my t-stat might be failing?
I have the single t-stat setup btw.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
You need to just take it easy and nurse it until you get the system up to par.
Get rid of that valve, correct that you can’t just stop that flow. If you have to bypass the heater core for some reason- then have the hose feed through without being kinked or blocked.
The temp gauges that don’t have accurate readings of temperature are the dumbest thing ever done. Buyers at the time demanded telp gauges because the average consumer was more educated on rigs than they are now and knew the importance of maintaining an even temperature. GM had nightmare problems with it running too hot so they simply got rid of the numbers off the gauge.
I wouldn’t even bother using the sensor location when it can be used for something of value - like a gauge telling you actual temps.
Get rid of that valve, correct that you can’t just stop that flow. If you have to bypass the heater core for some reason- then have the hose feed through without being kinked or blocked.
The temp gauges that don’t have accurate readings of temperature are the dumbest thing ever done. Buyers at the time demanded telp gauges because the average consumer was more educated on rigs than they are now and knew the importance of maintaining an even temperature. GM had nightmare problems with it running too hot so they simply got rid of the numbers off the gauge.
I wouldn’t even bother using the sensor location when it can be used for something of value - like a gauge telling you actual temps.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
So in question... do away with the cut off valve. Ok. I can bypass the heater core for now. The only reason I shut it off is because it pushes heat in the cab. Did these rigs from factory have anything that bypassed the flow during the summer?
should I see any cooler temps with the heater core bypassed or the valve open?
my next project after our vacation is to get a real temp gauge and plumb it into the rear port of the passenger side head and also install an EGT gauge on the manifold there too.
should I see any cooler temps with the heater core bypassed or the valve open?
my next project after our vacation is to get a real temp gauge and plumb it into the rear port of the passenger side head and also install an EGT gauge on the manifold there too.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes, the proper valve will bypass the heater core.
Maybe there was a year or two that it didn’t that I am unaware of, but afaik, all of them always had the bypass control valve.
Maybe there was a year or two that it didn’t that I am unaware of, but afaik, all of them always had the bypass control valve.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic from Rockauto of your proper heater valve. idk which best brand is, I just used this pic to show you.
Notice 4 hoses attach. This is so the coolant never stops flowing.
Notice 4 hoses attach. This is so the coolant never stops flowing.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I wonder where that valve is supposed to be located and how it’s connected. That’ll be another “ put it back to factory “ project lol
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
93detroit
Well-Known Member
I've never been worried about my 6.5 running too cool. Gotta run 195 for maximum power and efficiency, blah blah blah! I've never broken anything by running cool- running hot is a different story! Mine will get up to 195ish towing ridiculous loads up a mountain, but unloaded cruising is probably 130-150. Do what you have to do to keep your 6.5 cool and it will live a longer, happier life!
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I was debating going back to a 180 t-stat but I can’t find one locally. I should have saved the old one lol there was nothing wrong with it, I just changed it when I had the radiator fixed last year!
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I don't think our trucks have that valve. My 94 doesn't my 99 doesn't either even though RA shows one for it. From what I can tell the one that RA shows is vacuum operated. Pretty sure the heater core is hot all the time and a door just bypasses the air around it.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Below 160 is too cool. I am super happy with 180. To me the little mpg gain from being 190 isn’t worth it.
Those type valves with the bypass in it was what I saw most of the time in the fleet. The problem with them is they used to be expensive and would seize up. So a lot of people just swapped them out for the other style used in gasser trucks, plushkw many people changed things trying to deal with overheating.
It would be interesting to parts diagram year by year from all data.
Absolutely i get the idea of stopping heat from getting into heater core. But on a 6.5, even if there is a few years that didn’t have that bypass valve- I would add it to stop the extra heat coming in. But definitely don’t block the line.
Those type valves with the bypass in it was what I saw most of the time in the fleet. The problem with them is they used to be expensive and would seize up. So a lot of people just swapped them out for the other style used in gasser trucks, plushkw many people changed things trying to deal with overheating.
It would be interesting to parts diagram year by year from all data.
Absolutely i get the idea of stopping heat from getting into heater core. But on a 6.5, even if there is a few years that didn’t have that bypass valve- I would add it to stop the extra heat coming in. But definitely don’t block the line.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yup, what ak dieseldriver said.
Apparently the door that controls how much air is allowed to flow through the heater core is now defunct. Figure out which door it is and figure out the why fors. It could be the control switch or it could be the door actuator.
Remove the right side inner fender, install a gauge sending unit into that plugged port. and enough wire to reach all the way across along the fire wall and enough extra to reach the back of the cab. Then, You know there will be enough to reach any place in the cab where You might want to place a temperature gauge.
Or, install a mechanical temp gauge. The You will know what temp it is running.
Apparently the door that controls how much air is allowed to flow through the heater core is now defunct. Figure out which door it is and figure out the why fors. It could be the control switch or it could be the door actuator.
Remove the right side inner fender, install a gauge sending unit into that plugged port. and enough wire to reach all the way across along the fire wall and enough extra to reach the back of the cab. Then, You know there will be enough to reach any place in the cab where You might want to place a temperature gauge.
Or, install a mechanical temp gauge. The You will know what temp it is running.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
If you have to get in the dash to look into if you have a door problem please take some pictures while you are in there. I don’t think this forum has many pictures of that kind of stuff
I believe this was a 1/2 ton gas rig thing. None of my 1995, 1993s, 1992, 6.5's ever had that valve. The 1995 350 Gas Yukon did though.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I definitely will do that. I do have vent door problems. “One day” I want to do a sash swap to ether the same style or newer, which ever I’m able to find and rebuild or replace the box!
