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Old 6.5-T strikes again !

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Yea that is not my concern the issue i am having is this oil leakage:
 

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My voltage meter just showed up now which wire is pin "B" as where my unit it located it really can not be Read if its even labled. . .

Mike
 
M123KT-450 said:
Yea that is not my concern the issue i am having is this oil leakage:
Click to expand...

You have the improper clamp on that intake tube and that CDR oil is blowing out when boost is created. You need that Spring Clamp.

I let some fuel sit out for a few weeks, and it was so super clean crystal clear it looked flawless. If your fuel is cloudy, then thats probably your problem, get it out, clean the tank up and put in fresh diesel.

EDIT: I now see the other clamp. You sure those are tight? Is that where that oil is seeping out of?
 
The harness is labeled on the PMD connector, the clip side. If looking at the clip on the harness A is on your left a green wire originally. B is right next to it and is a red wire originally. It is also the only wire that goes down a separate wire loom to the IP fuel solenoid and not into the grey hareness.

The original black grounding wire would come out of the PMD but then loop back, out the same end of the wire loom it entered, and connect to the top of the PMD. So it also does not go through the grey harness, but doesnt go down to IP fuel solenoid.
 
Matt Bachand said:
You have the improper clamp on that intake tube and that CDR oil is blowing out when boost is created. You need that Spring Clamp.

I let some fuel sit out for a few weeks, and it was so super clean crystal clear it looked flawless. If your fuel is cloudy, then thats probably your problem, get it out, clean the tank up and put in fresh diesel.

EDIT: I now see the other clamp. You sure those are tight? Is that where that oil is seeping out of?
Click to expand...

It dose too have the spring clamps 1 is pointed backward the others is pionted up ward and yes sir they are super tight. that is the oil leak of concern the other PVC type unit i am not so worried about. . .

Mikey
 
That leak is also not uncommon and not a huge deal except loosing a little boost, having the oil there in the first place is just annoying though, and its coming through the PCV thing. You can buy a new seal/hose for that, it doesnt cost too much ($25) but its not an emergency item either.
 
Ok i am sure this been tired but what the hey. . .

Can the PMD be rebuilt ?
Is it just some resisters ? or diodes ?
Some thing you could remove and replace ?



Mike
 
Wont that cause issues with the Transmission ?

Edit:
I noticed on the web site the sold the PMD's they had some thing called a #9 Resister package i was just wondering if that wasn't some sort of rebuild kit. . .I guess not. . .Do tell what is it ?

Mike
 
Not a rebuild, just a calibration resistor for shops with high tech equipment that can command a fuel rate and measure actual fuel squirted by IP. When its off they put in a resistor to make it correct. So a resistor value may decrease fuel (1-4) or increase fuel (5-9). I have pics at home can post later.

wrote this back in post 72....

You might check what resistor value is inside your PMD connector, its a little Printed Circuit board the shape of the connector that sits at the back. When ordering a new PMD you can increase power a little with a #9 resistor (ordered separately $26) if you have a #5 now. A higher resistance value increases the fuel output above what the PCM commands. Or at your risk could put in a $5 potentiometer across a couple of the lines and dial in your own resistance until it throws codes.
 
I don't know is messing with the PMD right at this point is the wisest thing. I would rather get the truck back running good well good for it. then do things to improve power. . .

Mike
 
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I don't really recall seeing such thing when i was doing the relocation. . .but i do have many photos from that project i will post them up quikly here and you can tell me which shot should the numbers be located. . .

Mikey

PMD/FSD:
 

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Nice location thats the side i stuffed up inside the bumper :eek: as to protect it from water, Mud snow ECT. :thumbsup:

I will go try and get the #R it has now. . .:mad2: Stupid over building :mad2:

Mikey
 

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buddy said:
Not a rebuild, just a calibration resistor for shops with high tech equipment that can command a fuel rate and measure actual fuel squirted by IP. When its off they put in a resistor to make it correct. So a resistor value may decrease fuel (1-4) or increase fuel (5-9). I have pics at home can post later.

wrote this back in post 72....

You might check what resistor value is inside your PMD connector, its a little Printed Circuit board the shape of the connector that sits at the back. When ordering a new PMD you can increase power a little with a #9 resistor (ordered separately $26) if you have a #5 now. A higher resistance value increases the fuel output above what the PCM commands. Or at your risk could put in a $5 potentiometer across a couple of the lines and dial in your own resistance until it throws codes.
Click to expand...

That is all well and fine but until i am able to order a new PMD the #9 kit is of no use to me ?

or

will it do some thing for the old PMD ?

Mike
 
I wouldnt bother changing the resistor unless youre getting a new PMD. It can be changed and improve on your current PMD, but only a small amount. Up to 4mm3 more fuel flow from a #9 than a #5 resistor. So if the PCM commands max fuel rate of 60mm3 then the IP might actually shoot 64mm3. Not a huge difference for someone already happy with their truck but if you are underpowered a little more fuel may be noticeable. Since you have the aftermarket cooler, may already have a #9 installed.

I pulled the resistor out of my spare with a pic tool, wasnt too bad. Its a #6 resistor compared to the #9 in the truck's PMD, and I really dont notice a difference, although I have the aftermarket PCM chip that commands up to 80mm3, so 3mm3 more is a much smaller percentage than 4mm3 to 60mm3.
 
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