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Old 6.5-T strikes again !

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I was also reading checklist again. The wire that comes out of pin F of PMD, should go back to the top of the IP. It should have been there to start with, a black wire with an eye terminal on it. With that black heatsink though I dont know if PO moved the wire off the top of the IP. I think it was on the back right screw if youre looking at the IP from in front of the truck.

Might not cause your problem, but its something.
 
You said earlier that it cranked, but wouldn't fire. Then in another thread, you mentioned that it sounded like a choked gasser that was trying to start...

If it is trying to fire, glow plugs could be the issue. And what the heck are 'Hot Starts'?

However, if you are getting fuel to the IP, and no fuel from the injector line, it's PMD or IP or dual failed sensors.

Diagnosing an electronic diesel requires precise information... if you guess at things, or leave things out, you get a bad diagnosis. Not checking for codes didn't help; relocating the problematic PMD with a DIY harness adds more imprecision - by the way, you DID leave it on the heat sink, right?

Maybe you should just sell it to somebody and buy a gasser, Mikey. A diesel, especially an electronic one, might be too complex for you... maybe an older all-mechanical one would work better.

were you sleeping under a rock all those months ago ?
I posted many many photos of the process as you yahoo's didn't have any photos of doing a PMD?FSD relocation. . .

OMFG :mad2: think Mc fly think. . .

Now the DIY wiring harness is just and was just inspected and performing perfectly. . .

But thanks for the insult :thumbsup:

Funnest thing i have delt with many many EFI units oops i mean Electronically Fuel injected Engines before oh sorry for the big words there Eh i didn't mean to confuse ya there eh !. . .

This truck is plain and simpley the most Piss pour rats nest POS i have ever had to deal with its like it half mech n half elec. . .

Its the biggest abortion of an engine design i have ever seen in my life. . .

Mikey
 
I was also reading checklist again. The wire that comes out of pin F of PMD, should go back to the top of the IP. It should have been there to start with, a black wire with an eye terminal on it. With that black heatsink though I dont know if PO moved the wire off the top of the IP. I think it was on the back right screw if youre looking at the IP from in front of the truck.

Might not cause your problem, but its something.

On the top of the IP there is a Screw just sitting there as tho you could have grounded it ?

Mikey
 
Didn't mean to insult you, just said if you can't make it work, sell it and get something you can.

As for all the work you've done, you keep posting everything in different threads all over the place, so it's kind of hard to keep track of what you have or have not done, and to be honest, separating the facts from the guesses is a little difficult, as time goes by.

I was serious about you getting rid of the truck before it makes you crazy... I'm sure somebody else will make a coherent attempt to fix it.

In any case, Mikey, I'm real sorry you haven't gotten any help with your truck. I can honestly say that I've never seen somebody with so many issues.
 
On the top of the IP there is a Screw just sitting there as tho you could have grounded it ?

Mikey

There are 6 screws holding the cover plate down on the IP, my ground wire is attached to the middle one on the drivers side
 
Bad fuel and i was low on fuel it popped the WIF light it started bucking and stumbling limpped it to the fuel station threw a half tank aka 7 gallons of fuel then i dumped in half a boittle of the Diesel kleen red bottle 911. . .which was a way over done amount truck bucked and poppped for a good long while then i changed out the fuel filter and lift pump as instrucked to by DTR guys. . .then i filled it up. . yet instead of the trouble fading away it only got worse. . .

mikey

It's possible you still have a bad fuel problem, may need to drain and clean tank.
Filling it up may just have stirred it all up causing further problems.

Leo
 
Although it might be rare, if there is actually a CPS non operational, it would have went into backup fuel/limp mode, caused driveability issues. And bad fuel, or a strong solvent/additive, or really dark in high concentration could make the OS inoperable, making the truck not run because of no good timing reference. you wouldnt get the OS codes for 17 and 18 though if CPS isnt working.

Hopefully its just bad fuel, or a bad PMD, but with these electronics every detail seems vitally important. Let us know if DTC 19 is a permanent or was it just from unplugging that sensor and not clearing codes since.
 
Don't worrie I'll just CRUSH IT ! then it won't be and issue any more. . .The last thing i want to do is buy more parts i don't need. . .The truck now has a new lift pump new fuel filter it didn't need so there is $180 buck down the drain i am sure that could have gotten a PMD but heck nobody seems to know for sure if it even needs that. . .as far as what i can see you all don't know a thing about whats going and are just guessing. . .If i wanted trial and error i could have done that myself. . .

Mikey
 
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Is it normal for the round gizmo on the right side valve cover to be soaked in OIL ?

Come to think of it every time i have to pull the top section of my intake off that too is soaked in Motor oil !

Mike
 
Yes that is pretty normal of a bad CDR but not a huge issue unless its consuming loads of oil. You can just plug the line that goes to the turbo and let the CDR vent.

And no people are not just guessing, it may seem that way to the unknowledgeable. Most things are just normal simple tests, so that we can begin to guess what the problem is.

Water in Fuel light, and stumbling, draining and changing the filter is a good idea. You bought the LP on your own, as it was just recommended to test the fuel pressure of the LP. Whether or not you needed it we don't know.
 
call it what you want its still trial and error as you all have said before many times there is no way to test a PMD they either work or they don't. . .So to figure it out i would have to then spend $370 just to find out if the SOB will run or not and if it don't thats another almost $400 in wasted money. . .then what the IP for $1849 or $1549 depending on which one it is. . .yea yea NVM says $650 with PMD $450 with out. . .
I have yet to find a place with such pricing. . .

the $1,849 n $1,549 came from parts guys on here.
The local shop wants $3,499 with no core or $1,999 with core.

So 3500 no core 2000 with core makes the core 1500 which seems to fit with the online pricing, which makes me think there just rebuilt IP's not new. . .

Mike
 
I just sent a pricing quote for a NEW IP and a NEW PMD and we will see whos numbers jive and whos numbers don't. . .

either my quotes are to high or yours are too low

Mike
 
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Ok cleared codes ! SeS has not returned !

I pulled out my filter dumped 2 cap fulls of the 911 into the canister !

Reinstalled the filter primed bleed truck fired right up !

Won't idle yet but the WIF light is slowly fading away !

Mike
 
Here's the ebay # for the IP w/o PMD 200331089018 ,Here's the # for IP with PMD 200331089006

I mentioned Pensacola Diesels name, I thought you could look it up, they are also listed on their website.

Leo
 
thank you sir but i do not think i am going to need and IP tho replacing the PMD soon would be a smart idea. . .

Thanks for helping on the secondary issues n third hand problems but i took another route and treat the first condition which was the start of this whole ordeal. . .

I removed my Fuel filter drained out the canister, then flipped my lift pump switch a few time filling the canister back up with fuel.

I then poured 2 cap fulls of the 911 stuff into the filter canister directly, and attempted to start the truck.

The truck started rought wouldn't idle fired n died fired n died after the 4th time i was getting a bit pissed off. . .on try number 5 it fired and before it died i laid into the throttle hard core it studdered a lot then it reved right up to 3600Rpm i held it there for just a short few seconds and slowly started reving it back down around 1500rpm it stalled.

i cracked the bleeding shot a bunch of air out of the filter then i restarted the truck and kept reving it up and down. from 1500rpm to 2500rpm then every 5th time running 2500rpm to 3500rpm. . .

Its running all on its own right now tho every now and then it idles down and start sounding rough then the engine quick rev's itself up then it stablizes for a a few mins then it starts all over again. . .

Mikey
 
Edit: good that its running now, might still just be bad fuel problem....or a clogged tank sock, which is why the pressure tester is a good idea to monitor and diagnose it.

Are you saying the WIF light still comes on? Did you drain the filter assembly when changing the filter. You could try draining a gallon or so into a container, from the drain valve in the front.

Pensacola diesel sells new PMDs for $163, and remanned IPs for $450. Almost no one buys a new IP unless its for warranty work which we dont have anymore.

Still dont know what you mean by trial and error, the only part we have recommended swapping is the PMD. The others have been suggestions to test pieces of equipment. Its called diagnostics. There isnt one single piece that is the cause of any single problem.

I gave you a chart by which you could test your PMD, I wouldnt say you cant test their functionality.
 
no now that its running by its onw self the WIF light hasn't came back on, tho it dose flicker when lugs down like it wants to stall but then it kicks the idle up on its own and the light goes away. . .

I do believe this is 100% bad fuel and not a malfunction cause it hasn't turned on the SES light as of yet and the codes where all cleared.

I must say for bleeding the air out of the fuel filter its very nice having the lift pump on a switch. . .

Mike
 
Do you know what I mean by draining? there is a drain valve by the thermostat, can put the hose on the other end into a container and turn on the lift pump and pump out some of the fuel. That is also where you can pressure test the LP. I had to put a hose clamp on the T valve to prevent it from leaking during pressure test.

Also pull off the fuel cap when testing the LP.

If you pump a lot of fuel into a jar or something you can see what it looks like, is there water bubbles, lots of foam from air?
 
yes i have used the T-handled valve many many times. . .

Mikey

here is what i got:
Going from left to right. . .

First photo is at 1x power
second photo is at 3x power
third photo is at 5x power
 

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Draining is much easier with a LP switch..

Are there a bunch of bubbles that settle at the bottom of it? I thought those were water bubbles in mine, when I first drained the filter assembly after the WIF light the bubbles were pretty big, like pea sized, and now after a few months the bubbles are really small but still fall through the fuel fast when I tip it upside down and all settle to the bottom. This is how you might have gotten water in it, as it settles to the bottom of the fuel tank.

Otherwise your fuel looks clear enough settled as it is. When it starts moving it might get cloudy though.

Im not sure how 911 works, but those water removers some are said to just make the water molecules small enough to flow through the filters, whereas others cause water molecules to combine making them larger so they really wont flow through the filter.
 
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