• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

OK. Need help. Swapping a TH400 out and NV4500 in OBS truck.

lng shot, but anybody gt a pic of how the throwout bearing is supposed to go ? I'm gonna be pulling the trans back out soon and I wanna make sure that was installed right. I understand it's easy to f' that up.
 
here's the transmission I got...fingers crossed. Talked to the guy on the phone. Said no issue returning it it it's no good but I will have to eat the shipping. I doub't he'd offer that if it was junk and his feedback is really good. He said they pull the top cover and inspect and also this tranny came from a wrecked truck so chances are i was in service. I hope it's the right one. He clarified in an email that it will fit diesel as well.

Do I need to be worried if someone converted my truck from a dual mass flywheel ? About having a damper ? The old motor in this truck snapped the crank although the harmonic balancer was to blame. This truck has been so hacked I want to leave no stone unturned during rebuilding.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0531192011&ssPageName=ADME:X:eRTM:MOTORS:1123
 
if you can find a damper for cheap, fine, but I wouldnt blow big bucks or waste alot of time finding one. there shouldnt be any issue with the DMF to SMF. just stick it in and go...well, maybe do the front and rear seals for peace of mind.
 
lng shot, but anybody gt a pic of how the throwout bearing is supposed to go ? I'm gonna be pulling the trans back out soon and I wanna make sure that was installed right. I understand it's easy to f' that up.

Yes it is easy to F up. There's a little spring on the clutch fork where the TO bearing goes. That spring's little fingers must be under the TO bearing "rear" flange, not on top of it.

Here's the service bulletin from LUK.

http://bulletins.schaeffler-aftermarket.us/displayTB.phtml?number=LB179


Here's another bulletin from LUK about the dual mass/single mass conversion.

http://bulletins.schaeffler-aftermarket.us/displayTB.phtml?number=LB182
 
I would say you can go to the dealer and put the VIN into the parts network (aka look up a part via vin, rather than description) and it should probably let you know.
 
OK, asking around a little getting different opinions whether or not this is necessary. What I have gather is this, Apparently coupling an NV4500 to a 6.xx causes a vibration that originally was solved by use of a DMF. Later on the conversion from DMF to SMF incorporated the damper. Now, I wonder...this problem does not seem to exist with gas motors. I wonder if using a Fluidampr would solve the problem ? I could put this together without the dmaper on the tranny, see if it indeed has a vibration, and if it does try swapping the fluidampr from my Burb to this truck and see if that cures it....What do you guys think ?
 
New/used tranny here today. Can't wait. driving the Rolling abortion today I noticed it does have a slight vibration from the tranny but I probably would not notice it other than I'm more conscientious of it now. Now if I discover that neither tranny has the damper, I will swap the Fluidampr to the abortion and see if it helps before I blow 5 beans on a tranny damper.
 
Spoke to Bill H today. He said he has done conversions without them with no issue and the 97+ supposedly did not come with them anyway ??
 
OK, so back to my old NV4500 that I took out. It definitely looks to have been rebuild from the outside anyway. The nuts on the output shaft are loose. Could that have been my problem ? If I pull the top cover and look in can I tell if the synchros are bad without disassembling the mainshaft ?
 
Pull the cover and check it out, it's easy to take on and off, just a few bolts.

From what you have described before, your syncros are toast. I don't think there is much you can see with just the top cover off (i'll see what picts I have of mine opened up).

Also, my 4th gear syncro went out in my 88. Still driveable but you have to shift slowly or it grinds. Makes towing a trailer difficult for sure.
 
Here is what you'll see.
P1080862.jpg

P1080848.jpg
 
So I won't be able to tell if they are toast without ripping it completely apart. I have time, just not motivation. I want to rebuild/repair it for my CUCV. The nuts on the output shaft are loose.
 
Back
Top