O7 Dmax your thoughts

[C20ELEPHANT]

This help

 

[bison]

Yes beautiful thank you.

 

[GM Guy]

Bison, regarding your previous question on the CP3, it is the high pressure fuel pump.

Its sole task is to pressurize the fuel to a amazingly high pressure, feeding a fuel "log" in which 8 individual lines attach and go to each electronic injector. the computer operates the injectors, making multiple injections per cycle, hence the reason these engines are so quiet, they have a pilot injection, a main injection, and others who know more can tell us, but I hear it can make up to 4 injections?

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

LBZ's are normally only 2 shots, but can go up to 3(some say they have logged 4, but the ECM is capable of 5 injection events). The injection system can reach pressures of 180 MPA or over 26,000 PSI(to put this into perspective, the 6.5 tops out around 11,000-11,500 at the pump, much less at the injector). The finger stick wires inline with the EGR valve and MAF sensor. It essentially fools the MAF reading so the ECM thinks the EGR is working when it is actually blocked off. The downside to the blocker/fingerstick combo is it does require a functioning EGR valve as the finger stick only stops the flow codes, not the codes for the valve. For a rusty truck, I would start a week in advance by soaking the 2 nuts down where the exhaust up pipe hooks to the EGR cooler as they will be rusted in pretty tight.

 

[bison]

Thanks for the info guys, it is really appreciated

Actually there is little rust on any of the bolts on this truck,it looks worse than it is and i haven't come across one yet that came out creaking, lots of them i can just spin of/out by hand after initially breaking them loose
Even the exhaust pipe clamp nuts and v clamp nut came off easy but i used W40 to soften up the crud ahead of time
The 2 studs on the EGR still have the paint on them.
The worst i found was that some bolts that tread in aluminum on parts like the tranny mount that have previously been taken off have stripped treads, luckily these holes were trough holes so i could use a bolt and nut.
Seems like most things that need attention were Blotched repair jobs done previously by some dope head

 

[btfarm]

Still shaking my head about loose front axle assembly case bolts. ..

Sent from my SCH-I535

 

[bison]

Still shaking my head about loose front axle assembly case bolts. ..

Sent from my SCH-I535

i did a history search on this truck at the dealer, apparently they rebuild the front axle a couple years ago.( prob had a 1 st year apprentice do it :rolleyes5:.

I need some info on the tow/haul mode.
I went for a spin today, seems like tow/haul mode don't work, i can push the button all day, nothing happens?,..no light on, no manual up and down shift either.:nonod:
What is the secret here?

 

[GM Guy]

can you at least pull the lever to "M" and select the gears?

 

[bison]

can you at least pull the lever to "M" and select the gears?

I did pull the lever in M but pushing the up and down buttons don't seem to have an effect

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

There was a thread on here a while ago regarding a wire being pinched or cut from the tilt steering wheel column. If I recall, the wire located at the bottom of the shifter lever got cut and there was a fix for reconnecting the wire. If you look at the bottom of the shifter lever where it connects to the column, you should be able to see it. Hopefully this is all it is. It sounds like your describing an electrical issue.

 

[tanman_2006]

Yup sounds like a dead shift lever. Check wires as said.

source unknown

 

[bison]

Yep that'll do it, 3 of the 4 clean broken, the last one broke inside insulation.


What are these things for in the other 2 pics,..on the bigger one it says Auto trans only?
There's a smaller one underneath it in the first pic, sticker on it is 99% gone.

 

[bison]

I fixed the wires,.select shift with the lever in M works now.
Still no tow/haul with the button,...no indication light either.
Button is OK cause i tested for continuity at the connector.

were to look now?

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The normal problem with no tow haul mode is the wires are broken. Otherwise you have a BCM issue not seeing the tow/haul mode request. The module appears to be the transfer case controller I think, but not 100% certain.

 

[bison]

I purchased a subscription on AllData but i cant find nothing about the issue at hand in there, i spend 3 hrs looking.
I did not find it under BCM either.
I'm lost.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

It looks like you had more than one wire that was cut or chaffed. The only thing I remember from a member on here was that there was one wire that got chaffed and eventually cut from the tilt steering wheel. It was the Tow Haul Mode wire and he found it right under the tilt column/ shift lever. He found the wire, and put a splice back in and was good to go.

 

[bison]

Got a new shift lever,..tow haul still no worky...till i noticed the tow haul indicator light on the dash very faintly light up, it wont get bright though.:???:
Might have been that way with the old lever as well, i just did not notice as i was expecting a bright light.:agreed:
I'm out $80 + a trip to town.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

It's unusual for the indicator to burn out as it is an LED, but it can happen.

 

[ak diesel driver]

So does the tow/haul work?

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk

 

[bison]

It's unusual for the indicator to burn out as it is an LED, but it can happen.

It ain't burned out. i pushed te button underneath it once and the indicator lighted up bright,..but it happened only once:???:

So does the tow/haul work?

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk

Dunno yet,..i try tomorrow:skep: