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New to diesels and tooj on a 6.5 turbo diesel project

I can't remember the year of the OP's block, but 92-96 should have 3/8 NPT threads in the block and 97+ should have 1/2" NPT. Never seen any other fitting in a block for the oil cooler ports.

The stock oil cooler is some strange kind of metric straight thread ORB (O- Ring Boss). Easiest thing to do is get a newer cooler with NPT threads, makes adapting to upgraded hoses much easier and eliminates the strange fittings that are also prone to leak when the o-ring decides to fail.
 
are the threads on the fittings you removed from the block a tapered thread or a straight like a bolt thread? if straight and the fitting has a seal between the nut and block surface, it possibly could be whats called a boss fitting. most of those have a nut with an o-ring behind them. you thread them in, position the fitting and cinch the nut down to lock it into place.

I wouldn't think that's factory, but it's possible if the block is of the newer variety.
 
All you need is a couple of 90 degree male 3/8" NPT to make 1/2" JIC fittings for the block. I think they also offer them in a swivel type but are much harder to find locally and higher in price.

Here is both Gates and the Parker brand which Napa should be able to cross to what ever brand they carry

1681405084597.png

1681405241909.png
 
Now that's on the engine side. I don't know what the cooler has or if the clip in fittings are removable. if your wanting to keep the factory cooler on there for the time being until you replace it with something better. Napa might have an adapter that will have a compression fitting on one end and the 1/2" JIC male on the other.

I was looking at coolers and found the Hayden 778 and 779 oil coolers that may work. one has JIC male fittings on it and the other uses NPT where you can use an adapter there. I can't seem to find what size the JIC is on the 778 cooler.
 
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. be sure to use some pipe dope, not the tape. and be careful threading into the cooler if you find the right fitting to thread into it. it's aluminum and you don't want to over tighten or tweak it.

I misread where you posted that the fittings are straight on the cooler. if you nave to, remove the cooler from the truck and tak with you to the hydraulic shop. if your not positive on the lengths of hose needed. get you the style that has replaceable ends. we call them strad-o-flex type here at work. they use a two piece fitting that goes on the hose and you can cut the hose length at home and install the ends on your self.

those are nice because there serviceable out in the field without having to pull and snake long hydraulic hoses out of a machine just when a simple fix is needed.
 
Any hose that has been cut and ends attached, use detergent and hot water and flush any grindings and rubber from them hoses. Blow dry with compressed air. Even run a little rubbing alcohol through them to be sure there is no puddles left within.
 
When screwing pipe thread fittings into a somewhat fragile component, be careful how tight You go with the fitting.
Those tapered threads have been known to spread and crack components that they are being tightened into.
You want them tight enough to seal but not so tight that they split and bust components.
 
Be sure to clean out the new lines before the install. making sure there isn't any rubber particles left in there from when they were cut and crimped together.

what type of ends were they on the oil cooler side? I need to do mine at some point.
 
Hopefully those are high temperature lines, at least. Most of the braided ones I've seen are Teflon coated and are rated higher, so you probably have a win.

There is a lot of conversation about going to the local hydraulic shop - just a word of caution - just because it's hydraulic hose rated for 3000+psi doesn't mean it's a good fit for an oil cooler application. For instance a lot of hydraulic hose is only good up to 212 deg. F. Above that, it "starts to turn to goo" - directly from a Parker rep many years back. There are other solutions that the shops probably carry, but not all the guys behind the counter are going to dig into the application and see if they have the right product for your specific needs. When using hydraulic lines for oil cooler lines, pressure rating and burst pressure means nothing. That's because at 60 or so psi the hydraulic hose doesn't even know there's anything in it. On the other hand, temperature rating is important.

To put into perspective if using hydraulic lines rated for this temperature to replace hoses, why not saves some cash and be creative to just go to the local hardware store and buy some CPVC in the plumbing aisle and make your own lines that way? CPVC is rated for 200 deg. F if the right grade is used and will easily hold 100 psi, which is where municipal water supplies are.

Long winded point, I know, but there are other factors to be considered.
 
I honestly have considered making some oil lines using HVAC copper tubing or the ni-chrome tubing along with some compression fittings, something to sort of match the factory aluminum lines. then have it barbed up front for the short sections of hose to the cooler up front. the only caveat would be to make sure the tubing is secure so it can't get a rubbed hole in it.

Just something simple and more secure than the clip in fittings that GM used is a plus.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Be sure to clean out the new lines before the install. making sure there isn't any rubber particles left in there from when they were cut and crimped together.

what type of ends were they on the oil cooler side? I need to do mine at some point.
Click to expand...
Il have to see what he wrote on ticket he said it's metric 18 thread count let me get back to you on actual size 2 lines cost 180 here but I'm hoping they pay for themselves with a lack of my labor down the road
 
SnowDrift said:
Hopefully those are high temperature lines, at least. Most of the braided ones I've seen are Teflon coated and are rated higher, so you probably have a win.

There is a lot of conversation about going to the local hydraulic shop - just a word of caution - just because it's hydraulic hose rated for 3000+psi doesn't mean it's a good fit for an oil cooler application. For instance a lot of hydraulic hose is only good up to 212 deg. F. Above that, it "starts to turn to goo" - directly from a Parker rep many years back. There are other solutions that the shops probably carry, but not all the guys behind the counter are going to dig into the application and see if they have the right product for your specific needs. When using hydraulic lines for oil cooler lines, pressure rating and burst pressure means nothing. That's because at 60 or so psi the hydraulic hose doesn't even know there's anything in it. On the other hand, temperature rating is important.

To put into perspective if using hydraulic lines rated for this temperature to replace hoses, why not saves some cash and be creative to just go to the local hardware store and buy some CPVC in the plumbing aisle and make your own lines that way? CPVC is rated for 200 deg. F if the right grade is used and will easily hold 100 psi, which is where municipal water supplies are.

Long winded point, I know, but there are other factors to be considered.
Click to expand...
At one point I ended up at the hardware store exploring options he said it's stainless steel braided line and wanted to use that over hydraulic line because of the heat factor
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
At one point I ended up at the hardware store exploring options he said it's stainless steel braided line and wanted to use that over hydraulic line because of the heat factor
Click to expand...
I can't remember how hot the engine oil can get, but as long as the inner hose materials will hold up to at minimum of 250 deg temps without deterioration your golden
 
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