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New to diesels and tooj on a 6.5 turbo diesel project

also have you verified that the lift pump is working and pumping fuel? on your year model the LP (lift pump) will not run with the key on. it's controlled by the OPS (oil pressure sensor) mounted on the block. easy way to test is to use pin G on the PCM connector under the dash.

I can't remember if you short it to ground or feed a positive 12v to it, but that will manually turn the lift pump on. @ak diesel driver do you remember on this?

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if the LP is not pumping fuel, that alone can cause air to get into the lines from any of the tiniest places between the IP and the tank. including the FFM (fuel filter manager) mounted behind the center of the intake. filter cap bleeder, cap o-rings ect...

the LP not working can also kill a IP in a hurry too. the IP can suck fuel and put the entire fuel system into a vacuum. the LP from factory should be pushing 6-8 psi of pressure to the IP at all times.
 
I was trying to remember how to manually entergize the LP for testing on an unmodified truck. I know we all install the relay off the OPS and then have an easy way to do this including when we need the LP to fill the filter after a changing.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I was trying to remember how to manually entergize the LP for testing on an unmodified truck. I know we all install the relay off the OPS and then have an easy way to do this including when we need the LP to fill the filter after a changing.
Click to expand...
I did get the relay and online fuses to do this just haven't gotten there quite yet
 
dbrannon79 said:
with the oil cleaned off you can run it and see where oil begins to seep out.

on the fuel... fuel runs to the IP first and out the return of the IP. the tank hard lines your talking about, are those the ones at the fuel tank where the hard line goes into rubber and connect to the tank sender? that can be the culprit where the air is getting in. your lift pump is mounted on the frame rail pulling from the tank. there is not a pump in the tank like on a gas truck. check the rubber hoses going to the tank sender, also check the lift pump threaded fittings. there are rubber o-rings on the ends of both fittings that can also leak. anything between the lift pump and the tank is "suction" from the pump and could be sucking air into the lines.
Click to expand...
Yes that's what I did after noticing break in hard line out of tank before the flex line I replaces took out flex line and made my own I think I fixed with another clamp
 
I think everything is coming together now. Seems to sound like it’s running smoothly. No air Just the oil leak to be concerned with

I will let the other guys comment on what else they think before moving on to the relearn process
 
Mine has always ran with key on no start so they did something about that I guess let me know and should I run awhile to see if I'm loosing coolant from resivour oil wasn't as thick as first change maybe thats normal with new fluid just want ducks in a row before paying anymore money on this truck it's about broke the bank
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
Mine has always ran with key on no start so they did something about that I guess let me know and should I run awhile to see if I'm loosing coolant from resivour oil wasn't as thick as first change maybe thats normal with new fluid just want ducks in a row before paying anymore money on this truck it's about broke the bank
Click to expand...
I don't see any harm in running it for a bit. if you have an area to drive in I don't see any harm in scooting it around getting things good an hot, especially the exhaust system to see if any of the smoke starts to clear out. only thing I would do before running it too much is install the fan shroud so it doesn't overheat.

keep watch on temps. you don't want to go over 210 on these engines. they have a tendency to get stuck rings and self destruct with temps reaching 220.

pay attention to the engine if it starts hesitation or missing. or any other unusual things. keep an eye on oil pressure and levels with the leak too!

with loosing coolant. look for any leaks and if there is a internal combustion leak it will be obvious with it puffing smoke and steam from the radiator cap. just don't open it when it's under pressure.
 
OK maybe I will drive it around the block and just let it run awhile and check coolant levels I put couple gsl in there and I think it might have just burped itself because it took a couple gal more last couple days once I reinstall steering wheel I'll get it out of driveway honestly I might spend a couple few days buttoning everything up before I do relearn but IL keep you posted and try and make sure everyone is on board to actually finalize this drug out project thanks for the help seems like it won't be much longer thanks ya'll
 
Ok- the tiny bubble like that is fine and expected. You can leave the clear line on and In maybe 5 years it could need replacing. Anytime something acts silly- just glance at the line to see bubbles or contamination.

I agree- put back on the shroud and Get a lot of miles on it- not just around the block.
100 miles would be good to know what’s happening.

Watch the oil leak trying to find the source. If it is the oil filter adapter - ignore it until you decide to keep the truck permanently. If it is the oil cooler hoses- those go from leaking a little to ruptured very quickly and almost instantly destroying the engine so replacing those are worth it of you decide to sell it. Blown up engine 6.5 truck is worth very little. That truck running how it is right now is worth a few thousand depending on your local market. So a couple hundred to keep it from being a hand grenade is smart.
If there is coolant getting into the cylinder(s) obviously that is first to learn.
If you don’t smell the coolant, then it isn’t coolant getting in there. The cheap part of me would just say add water because it is cheap- but adding the proper green sweet prestone antifreeze will definitely give the smell in the exhaust if that is the issue. Consider the $20 a diagnostic test.

Once all that is done and you decide to keep it- also a good idea for your your 93:
Burning the oil can be addressed. But investing the time and money is not worth it if you don’t want to keep it. There is enough blow by, and the valve seals are probably toast that it is burning the engine oil along with cdr allowing oil to be burned. Adding “seafoam” to the engine oil will clean it out and ensure the rings aren’t stuck to the piston. Then after the mileage run & oil change adding the “engine restore” to the new oil will improve compression and ease the oil burning some and ease the smoking. Adding a “provent” would eliminate burning away the blow by - doesn’t fix the problem but stops a lot of the smoke and you can pour the captured oil back into the engine instead of spending $ to add it.
 
Sounds like you’re well on your way with a grand 6.5 revival!!

I don’t think the relearn process is too important right now. Get her all buttoned up to drive. Not sure if your local state inspectors will pass it with the smoking but they should give you at least a 30 day pass to drive with for the meantime.

Go have some fun with it, see how it does on the roads. If for whatever reason it goes from running like it is now to going bananas keep in mind that on these older systems the PCM will look at the timing and things about every 50 key cycles and may reset the stored previous timing forcing a required relearn
 
dbrannon79 said:
I was trying to remember how to manually entergize the LP for testing on an unmodified truck. I know we all install the relay off the OPS and then have an easy way to do this including when we need the LP to fill the filter after a changing.
Click to expand...
On a 1994, I've pulled the fuse on the passenger side and supplied fused power there.
I've also made a harness to go from the battery all the way directly to the lift pump.

I incorporate a toggle switch and inline fuse
 
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