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New oil cooler fitting allows -10 SS hoses and OEM cooler

I thought the whole point of including the new cooler was that a majority of the time the old one strips upon dissasembly. One improvement I would like to see it a different fitting used at the block. I used a similar kit to what you sell(before you were even selling them) and it used the same fittings at the block and I did not like them. It was difficult to get them at the right angle so's the lines would not rub the 4x4 adaptor. There is no real way to "lock" them in exactly the right spot. You either have to crank them tighter than I feel comfortable doing or not quite tight enough and then they loosen and leak later on. Not knocking your product, in fact I used a similar one not yours but I would like to see a better way at the block. Some sort of fitting that could be clocked the3 way it needs to be then locked down tight...does that make sense ?? I may be wording this poorly.

I think what you are thinking about is straight pipe thread and uses a o-ring ,washer and jamb nut. This set-up is used a lot on hydraulic valves and other hydraulics. Our blocks weren't machined for this type of fitting unfortunately. Not enough room to go with a pipe to JIC swivel either.
I have stripped out the threads in the cooler fittings. Pipe threads in aluminum just plain sucks. I'm a big fan of the swivel fittings that Leroy sells. For me, trying to clock the 45degree elbows correctly ,the first time[and leak free], is near impossible.
 
It's awfully tight where the hoses exit the oil cooler, especially if you are using -10 hoses. I wouldn't recommend thread in 45 degree pipe adapters (if replacing the oil cooler with a pipe thread cooler) as clocking them at the correct angle is next to impossible. 45 degree hose ends will solve the problem, but they are not cheap - actually any angle is expensive compared to straight hose ends. Some sort of 45 degree AN adapter would probably let you use straight hose ends, but they take up more room and add another layer of complexity. Now if Leroy's adapters for the stock cooler could be made with a 45 degree JIC/AN fitting, you could clock them and use straight hose ends, but the cost would probably exceed a new cooler.

oilcoolerfittings2.jpg

45 degree hose ends with straight pipe adapters will get the hoses pointed in the right direction with a minimum of hassle, but a maximum of expense.
 
Now if Leroy's adapters for the stock cooler could be made with a 45 degree JIC/AN fitting, you could clock them and use straight hose ends, but the cost would probably exceed a new cooler.

Just to reconfirm, with my new oil cooler fittings you don't need a 45* swivle you can use the rigid 45* brass fitting.
All you need to do is snug up the new fittings in the OEM cooler then put a mark on it to position the rigid 45* brass fittings. Next remove the new fittings from cooler and take them to the bench. Tighten the 45* rigid brass fittings into the new adaptor fitting until they align with the marks you made. Now just reinstall them into the cooler.
Takes about 10 minutes.
 
I'll still pay the extra for the swivel 45s. Having the adapter is just another rigid piece that makes the oem cooler to the same threads as the aftermarket cooler. The swivel fittings allow adjustability after the cooler is mounted and lines connected.
I do like not having to throw a perfectly good cooler away.:thumbsup:
 
I can accomodate the swivle fittings also. Use the fitting on the left (in pic) and a swivle plus keep your OEM cooler.

oil cooler fitting -10 008.jpg
 
Hmmmmm..........Leroy I am supposed to have a internal oil cooler but when yall put them pics up I got something that looks a lot like that oil cooler in front of my radiator! I was told by a local non diesel shadetree mechanic that it was a power steering cooler cause my brakes somehow use the power steering pump instead of a booster? Hang in there guys I am getting there and getting my mods done and please dont give up on me just because I cant tell a power steering cooler from a oil cooler. I know, I know, get a picture so u guys know what I am looking at.....too dark now but will take pictures tomorrow.
 
Just to reconfirm, with my new oil cooler fittings you don't need a 45* swivle you can use the rigid 45* brass fitting.
All you need to do is snug up the new fittings in the OEM cooler then put a mark on it to position the rigid 45* brass fittings. Next remove the new fittings from cooler and take them to the bench. Tighten the 45* rigid brass fittings into the new adaptor fitting until they align with the marks you made. Now just reinstall them into the cooler.
Takes about 10 minutes.

OK I see how they work now. You still may have to over or under tighten to get them clocked properly and then you can't easily move them once in place. Plus, you have the extra length with the extra fittings. Unless cost is an overriding factor, I would still recommend the ones with the AN fittings and then use 45 degree hose ends.

In any event, they look to be nice pieces and its good you had these made up as they are not readily available anywhere else. Its a nice option to changing the oil cooler.
 
Hmmmmm..........Leroy I am supposed to have a internal oil cooler but when yall put them pics up I got something that looks a lot like that oil cooler in front of my radiator! I was told by a local non diesel shadetree mechanic that it was a power steering cooler cause my brakes somehow use the power steering pump instead of a booster? Hang in there guys I am getting there and getting my mods done and please dont give up on me just because I cant tell a power steering cooler from a oil cooler. I know, I know, get a picture so u guys know what I am looking at.....too dark now but will take pictures tomorrow.

If you look at my post (#42) you can see the oil cooler and the brake/power steering cooler. The oil cooler has the red and blue hose ends at the bottom. Just to the right is a tall and narrow cooler, that is for the power steering fluid. And yes, you probably do have a hydraboost power brake booster. The power steering and power brakes share the same fluid. Not to be confused with the brake fluid, that is a separate system. The hydraboost is used because Diesel's don't have vacuum, so a vacuum booster won't work. Although some of the heavier duty gassers use the hydraboost as well. The hydraboost serves the same purpose as a vacuum brake booster, which is to make pressing the brake pedal easier.
 
Thanks Bobbie, I was a 454 man b4. My 85 crew cab dually had that type power steering. Now I am wondering if I have that tall skinny power steering cooler?????
 
OK I see how they work now. You still may have to over or under tighten to get them clocked properly and then you can't easily move them once in place. Plus, you have the extra length with the extra fittings. Unless cost is an overriding factor, I would still recommend the ones with the AN fittings and then use 45 degree hose ends.

In any event, they look to be nice pieces and its good you had these made up as they are not readily available anywhere else. Its a nice option to changing the oil cooler.

As you would be installing the rigid 45* on a bench on in a vise it really easy to tighten to exactly where your marks indicate. The extra length is no problem either. I understand what you are saying, but its not a concern here. I do agree it would be just alittle cleaner install with the swivles and one less fitting (but really its not a concern)

I have some more 45* -10 swivles and some -8's on the way. Funny thing is the -10's cost less??
-10 swivles $30
-8 swivles $35
I'll post some pics when they get here.
 
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