New 6.2 660 GM short block build with DS4 injection pump

[turbovanman]

Thanks.I could have them made I guess.Maybe I should inquire about it.I'd go with the early 80's rocker arm setup if they were plentiful.Not many of those rocker arms kicking around nowadays.

There is a set for sale on the "dieselpage"

Cost savings would be my guess.

Heck of a lot cheaper to make the stamped setup.

 

[dieselolds]

I made some slight progress today.I installed the harmonic balancer,crankshaft sensor and gave it a light coat of engine enamel.I'll install the valve covers and injection pump,injectors on Monday.

 

[dieselolds]

There is a set for sale on the "dieselpage"



Heck of a lot cheaper to make the stamped setup.

Yep your right.I did see those at the dieselplace but I think i'll be in good shape with the grade 8 hardware.

 

[handcannon]

Thank you for the pics of the rocker/bolt mod. I've read about that several times in the past three or so years but could never get a picture in my head of how that worked. NOW I understand. The rocker actually slides back and forth along the washer. And the washer keeps the rocker located on the shaft.

I think I'd also be inclined to use brass there. Don't know how easy/hard it would be to find brass washers, but you could easily make you own square shaped ones with some brass bar stock.

Don

 

[dieselolds]

Thank you for the pics of the rocker/bolt mod. I've read about that several times in the past three or so years but could never get a picture in my head of how that worked. NOW I understand. The rocker actually slides back and forth along the washer. And the washer keeps the rocker located on the shaft.

I think I'd also be inclined to use brass there. Don't know how easy/hard it would be to find brass washers, but you could easily make you own square shaped ones with some brass bar stock.

Don

No problem Don.Your more than welcome.Brass probably would be better to reduce friction if and when the rocker rubs the washers.I think i'm going to leave it as is though.I'm putting a filter-mag on the oil filter as the rest of my trucks have them as well.They are very strong magnets.

 

[dieselolds]

My turbo oil feed line is badly rusted away so rather buy the GM line i'm thinking of making my own with some AN fittings and braided hose.Here are some fittings I chose to use for the turbo oil feed line...the fitting on the far right uses push-loc hose.It pushes on one way and won't come off very easily.I was thinking of that route but the first couple of fittings shown here are what i'll be using.I don't want to risk the hose being blown off with high oil pressure.

 

[Paveltolz]

You won't have any issues with the 1/4" to AN-4 (3rd photo) in conjunction with the 90* and the 45* fittings.

For my 660 block, I used a brass 45* feeding a brass 90* to a "T" at the block to allow for the OPS and the Turbo Oil Feed lines. Currently using a Hydraulic hose to feed the oil to the turbo but I've got the AN Fittings and Hose to do what you're doing when time allows.


For what it's worth, here's a shot of the rockers. 635 sourced them for me.


Nice work on your project. Following with great interest.

 

[dieselolds]

Looking good there paveltolz!Nice pictures and details indeed.Thanks for the good word.I do appreciate it.I knew of the rivet style rocker arm retainer but since I had new rockers and shafts I figured I'd try to make it work with grade 8 hardware.I'll have new pictures tommorrow showing the fuel system,etc.

 

[Paveltolz]

Thanks back to ya. You're doing your own work too so more kudos to you for that and I'm betting your project goes smoother than mine did...which wouldn't be hard.

I used AN fittings and braided line for fuel as well.

 

[matuva]

Here are some pictures of the bolt/washer alternative to eliminate the plastic retainers.I couldn't find washers the same thickness as the plastic retainer so I used three grade 8 washers to match the retainer.Let me know what you guys think.

Isn't it a bit risky? I mean, may be the nut can get loose and then the retaning screw can fall?

Paveltolz, are these homemade retainers?

 

[Will L.]

Isn't it a bit risky? I mean, may be the nut can get loose and then the retaning screw can

Anything is theoretically possible, but really not as long as the bolt and nut were manufactured to spec. That's why he used a mechanical lock nut instead of nylock or a regular nut. Even if the nut were not tight against the shaft is should never come off. We were mentioning the brass or bronze instead of the grade 8 washers just to ensure no wear on the interior of the rocker arm. If it was a cupped washer inside with the nut and cupped washer next to the bolt head it would out last the rocker arms connection to the pushrods. As it is he just needs to do an inspection at 50,000 miles or so to make sure no wear inside the rocker arms that could lead to cracking,(i doubt it would). Otherwise it would be good for EVER.

Anything that might cause a little problem with his retaining set up would devastate the plastic pin set up. Guarantee when I get into mine in the future, my plastic pins are in the trash.

Thanks for sharing btw.

 

[Paveltolz]

Paveltolz, are these homemade retainers?

No, TTS Member 635 had those made up for the original build. One of the few things that survived.

 

[turbovanman]

This is another idea that are for sale. I also just scouped up a set of the old rocker setup off Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-2-6-5-DIE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item23366b7c3c&vxp=mtr

 

[Will L.]

The rod in the middle instead of individual nuts is nice, but the core means everything you buy is used except the mod. So $350 for the mod, I think diy for that much.

 

[ak diesel driver]

for $500 I'd spend another couple and get some Harland sharps

 

[turbovanman]

The rod in the middle instead of individual nuts is nice, but the core means everything you buy is used except the mod. So $350 for the mod, I think diy for that much.

That's why I linked it and said its show another idea, :thumbsup:

for $500 I'd spend another couple and get some Harland sharps

$350 and agree'd.

 

[dieselolds]

Anything is theoretically possible, but really not as long as the bolt and nut were manufactured to spec. That's why he used a mechanical lock nut instead of nylock or a regular nut. Even if the nut were not tight against the shaft is should never come off. We were mentioning the brass or bronze instead of the grade 8 washers just to ensure no wear on the interior of the rocker arm. If it was a cupped washer inside with the nut and cupped washer next to the bolt head it would out last the rocker arms connection to the pushrods. As it is he just needs to do an inspection at 50,000 miles or so to make sure no wear inside the rocker arms that could lead to cracking,(i doubt it would). Otherwise it would be good for EVER.

Anything that might cause a little problem with his retaining set up would devastate the plastic pin set up. Guarantee when I get into mine in the future, my plastic pins are in the trash.

Thanks for sharing btw.

The brass or bronze would be dynamite to use no question.This engine won't be running until i'd say June.This truck has become a real huge project.When the engine is completely assembled,i'll need to fix the reverse issue with the 4L80E and when thats done,i'll lower engine and tranny together onto the chassis and then install the transfer case and both driveshafts.

After that i'll install the new fuel tank,sending unit and the fuel lines,brake lines and that'll be pretty much it.The cab needs work with rocker panels and cab corners installed.I'm thinking June before the engine is finally fired up.I have lots of vehicles to use here anyway.My everyday driver during the winter months is my 98 K1500 with 6.2 diesel and 700R4.

I'm on way to the garage to install the valve covers,fuel system and maybe the exhaust manifolds.

Wish me luck!

 

[dieselolds]

Thanks back to ya. You're doing your own work too so more kudos to you for that and I'm betting your project goes smoother than mine did...which wouldn't be hard.

I used AN fittings and braided line for fuel as well.

Thank you.The engine project is going pretty smooth.I'm taking some of the parts from the 599 block and transfering it to this 660 engine so i'm cleaning up parts as I go and then install them.It really takes time to clean parts up adequately.

 

[dieselolds]

Isn't it a bit risky? I mean, may be the nut can get loose and then the retaning screw can fall?

Paveltolz, are these homemade retainers?

It should not loosen up.Self locking nuts were used so when the bolt was tightened up,the nut actually conformed to the inner diameter of the rocker shaft.They is no way it can loosen up.I have those bolts tightened down pretty darn good at this point.

 

[dieselolds]

I made some progress today with the fuel system and valve covers.Here are some pictures to show the progress....