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Never overheat again?

I was skeptical at first, but met a fellow 18 wheeler using it, and read up on it online. Some racers I respect were using it, and an antique truck restorer uses it exclusively. I bought mine from him.

"Cleaned the rad/condensor.oil cooler stack, of an insect and shrub collection. Replaced the t-stat with a 190f long one from GM. Flushed the system TWICE with prestone heavy duty flush, then used Evans prep fluid before filling with the NPG+ coolant.

I did as previously stated (be sure to flush with plenty of clean water after each prestone flush), but couldn't get to the block drains:mad2:. Calling Evans got a suggestion to use their prep fluid as a final flush. I didn't have to fill the system all the way, just enough to get the water pump to push some through the system. Drained the prep fluid into another jug to use on my '67 next. Final fill with NPG+, and bleed the system. I heard from a Ford guy that he couldn't get all of his water out, and left his pressure cap off, to let any excess H20 that may have stayed in the system, to evaporate.:thumbsup:
I run the Baja and off road in the California High Sierras, and dust is a major concern, so I didn't feel comfortable leaving the cap off. Didn't want to spill any of this preciou$ $tuff, either. I bought a small air filter(2"x3"?) at Kragen or Pep Boys (a Spectre unit, IIRC) and fitted it to the end of the overflow tube. I routed it higher than the tank to further prevent spilling. I drilled the rivet out of the pressure cap on the reservior tank and removed the guts, leaving the outer seal only. I carry a gallon of NPG+ with me, but have only added 1/2 of it in 1 1/2 years, most of that on the first trip San Diego to Los Cabos( the south end of Baja). Guess all the H20 has cooked off, but I'm too cheap to buy the hydrometer to test it. Guess I could spring for the test strips.

I calibrated the 'burb's temp gauge and found it stays around 185f, sees 193f once in a blue moon, loaded to the gills on a long grade with ambient outside temp over 110f. I believe the t-stat starts to open around 180, but I didn't test it before installing it. Unhooking the lower radiator hose is the fastest way to drain these. Beware hot fluids, wear goggles.
I highly recomend getting more product than you need for the first truck, so you don't make 2 trips or have to wait for shipping. Most of us have multiple rides, anyway. This was my only mistake. My thinker wasn't, or I cheaped out. Long run, this stuff is cheaper over all...
Too much information? More detail?
 
DangerousDave, THANKS! That is awesome detail - of course I would welcome more, that's my nature.

So, you used the prep fluid and just put enough in to get the water pump to push some through? What was your procedure on that? It looks like the prep fluid is plenty expensive as well.

Being your burb is a '94, did you change any components? When I called Evans a couple of years ago, they said I HAD to change out to the HO water pump and the dual-T-stats, IIRC. What did you do, if anything?

This is pretty interesting reading for those of us who want to keep things cool.

-Rob :)
 
Why would they make you change to a HO waterpump? To compensate for thickness? Why should it matter? It should work better with whatever system or vehicle you have, I would think is the goal?
 
iamdave0887 said:
on the topic of never overheating i found a company that makes what seems to be an All aluminum tig welded(for the tanks on either end) Radiator for the 6.5 and loads of other vehicles at that.

I"m sure that will help cool over the stock radiator.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/
Click to expand...

iv got an all aluminim welded rad in my truck bought it at Radiator Depot first one stated to leak where on of the tubes met the tank took it out got a new one due to the lifetime warranty on manufaturign defects
dont think they have a web site but they do have other stores that the one in omaha i believe. paid 299 for it seems to work great dosnt fit tightly in stock brakets had to adjust them with a hammer a bit to make them tighter
 
That's all I did. Didn't change anything but the single t-stat. Previous owner may have replaced the pump, truck had 79k+ miles on it.
Prep fluid IS pricey, that's why I saved it for flushing the rest of the fleet. less than 1/2 gallon stayed in, and they said it's basically a thinner (less viscous) version of NPG+, without the additives.
Since the 'Burb has such a large capacity, it would be OK. Works fine so far. Been in freezing, and the level in the reservior hardly changes compared to normal or hot.

If I didn't have the block drain problem, I might have used alcohol and compressed air (limited to 10 psi) to dry out the system.
New hoses are a usual change for me when I buy a vehicle, as are all new fluids and belts.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Why would they make you change to a HO waterpump? To compensate for thickness? Why should it matter? It should work better with whatever system or vehicle you have, I would think is the goal?
Click to expand...

Matt, when I called them, they said that the factory had made changes (They were clearly aware of the 97+ cooling changes) and that any vehicle 'had to be brought up to current standards' before they would advise putting Evans in.

My take on it is that the 6.5s have some cooling issues, and they wanted to ensure that the cooling issues were solved before Evans was introduced into the system. I admit, it sounds kinda weird, since the whole point is that Evans is supposed to solve the problem. I'm just reporting what he said.

-Rob :)
 
Looked at the 'Burb today, and there's silicone on the edges of the H2O pump. Maybe the PO changed it. Don't know the external differences to say if it's a better than original, but the guy always took it to the Stealership. It came with the latest IP and a fishbiting pmd.
79k - 220k = lots of no overheated miles on Evans. I don't care if anybody else gets it; I just wanted to help with some cool (-ing system) experience. G'day, Mate
Dave:gnorsi:
 
Brooklyn, I reccomend you buy a spare FSD, and an extension harness for when, not if, your PMD dies. :sad6:
(Can't keep calling it a PMD if it's not Pump Mounted, afterwards)

Back on track, ... "Burbs with dual air have a LARGE capacity, with the rear AC/Heat unit about a 1/2 mile away from the engine; probably 2 gallons in the hoses alone!:boggled:

:usa:
 
Neat stuff, I might have to try some in my turbo van, It runs hot, especially in boost with the a/c on. As an added bonus, it only holds 6-7 litres, :thumbsup:
 
Brooklyn, I reccomend you buy a spare FSD, and an extension harness
Click to expand...

Ya think!

I'm trying to break a record with my PMD......it's gotta be 6-7 years now.

So whats capacity for regular no rear AC/Heat.......26.5 qt's, thats almost 7 gallons!
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Ya think!

I'm trying to break a record with my PMD......it's gotta be 6-7 years now.

So whats capacity for regular no rear AC/Heat.......26.5 qt's, thats almost 7 gallons!
Click to expand...

Thats the same as regular truck too. My 97 was roughly 7 gallons. Or thats what I bought.... The rear heater core and lines probably don't use all too much.
 
Unit453 said:
I've never heard of anyone installing a TXC V2 radiator to a 6.5 but I'm sure it would work wonders. I'm curious about fitment of those into these trucks.
Click to expand...

From all the articles I've read, the issue with the 6.5s is not that the radiator cannot remove enough heat from the coolant. It is that the flow through the block and heads is inadequate.

-Rob :)
 
TurboTahoe said:
From all the articles I've read, the issue with the 6.5s is not that the radiator cannot remove enough heat from the coolant. It is that the flow through the block and heads is inadequate.

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

Same here, but I'm all for someone tossing one of these on a 6.5 and seeing what it does to aid the inadequate flow heat. If it can shed the extra heat, its a win.
 
Lot of reinventing going on here, set yourself up with a complete Heath cooling system and be done with it, you can't piece meal this with that and get the proper cooling, I tried that at 1st with the truck, on Burb I went 100% Heath deep cleaned the rad &a/c cores and have seen no overheat issues at all, even in 100F days, 257 IAT @ 111mph.

As tight wadded as some folks here are :D Evans while good from what I hear is good (never had to use it yet on either of my 6.5's which have done some heavy duty work on hottest of days) is not inexpensive stuff & IMO is overkill in a properly set up 6.5
 
I didn't just get the Evans for the cooling, but also for the other problems it solves; internal rust, cavitation, freezing, hose degradation, and TOXICITY. We lost a dog to antifreeze poisoning once, just from a hose leak. Don't want to loose any of my guards or mice-catchers.
Since, at this point in my life, I will probably keep the 'burb and the older units in the fleet 'till I die (then the family will keep them) I'm doing things long term, money willing. :eek:lcoot:
Millions of miles in big trucks have tested this stuff more than all of us together.
Do what makes you sleep better...
Enjoy :nanawrench:

Dave
 
Dave makes a good point here. Heath's approach is technically sound, obviously. However, it does start with a set of assumptions that Evans does not. Not to be an Evans apologist, but there are some basic problems with water and Ethylene Glycol as as coolant. DangerousDave points out some of the issue - toxic chemical, pressurized system danger, etc.

If I could be shown that Evans is a viable solution, it could actually solve a lot of problems without having to upgrade anything.

I agree with Tim, there IS a lot of reinventing going on, but that's not a bad thing all the time.

I dunno - sometimes I'd like to believe the Evans theory and give it a try - true it will be several hundred dollars, but Heath's solution is also hundreds of dollars.

I'm not towing anything these days, so it might be moot point.

What I'd LIKE to do is to have both trucks run at maximum efficiency and never overheat. This would imply we run around 195 degrees, but typically that leaves us with little wiggle room for cooking the engine, since we agree that 210 is a 'max' for most of us.

Hmmm. Decisions, decisions.

-Rob :)
 
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