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Never overheat again?

Need about seven gallons, but would want extra since its not available locally... 10 gallons. @ 33bux a gallon...

Give it a shot, it sure sounds good.
 
Dmax's have same problem we gots it seems... I like your fresh angles BT.

V2 nice radiator it seems, need to cmpare some pix!
 
Been a while since I looked closely at Evans Coolant. Good stuff but required a special water pump for optimum effect. Evans Coolant was more viscous and used a different impeller to optimise the system. That was a few years ago, I don't know if anything's changed (I didn't look at the link). Back when I was fiddling with rotary engines, one guy that was very succesfull with building racing engines would only use Evans because of the high heat rejection needs of the Wankle rotary. He would void your warranty if you switched to anything else. The problem with it is if you need some on the road somewhere you can't just mix in off the shelf antifreeze.
 
on the topic of never overheating i found a company that makes what seems to be an All aluminum tig welded(for the tanks on either end) Radiator for the 6.5 and loads of other vehicles at that.

I"m sure that will help cool over the stock radiator.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/
 
I looked into this a few years ago. In theory it sounds great. I called and spoke with one of the technicians at Evans. He was very polite and knowledgeable, but I did ask him some questions that he absolutely was unable to answer.

For example, Evans claims to have a really really high boiling point such that one can keep the cooling system at a very low pressure and allow the temp gauge to skyrocket and 'not worry about overheating'.

However, we have learned to rely on the coolant temp gauge to know when things are getting out of control. There is a measurement method, tried and true, where we know when things are OK, or in danger.

When switching to Evans, my understanding is that there really isn't any way to tell if things are working (other than your block isn't fried, and you're not stuck on the side of the road having turned your mighty 6.5 into a puddle of unobtanium). That's right - the temp will go way way up, and you are not supposed to worry. Well, what if you have a loss of coolant due to a leak? What if you are really low on coolant and the temp is spiking? Wouldn't you be roasting your engine?

It may well be that I misunderstood the answers, but that's what I came away with.

They did say that you need to upgrade to a high output water pump, and the dual stats, IIRC. No worries, that's straightforward to do. However, draining all the liquid from the 6.5 IS a problematic issue. No good way to get to the block drains without some major work - my understanding is that they are in the region of the engine mounts. You have to drain ALL the water out, or the Evans won't work properly.

-Rob :)
 
Seems to me the safest way to try this stuff is with a new engine that has no coolant at all. Then you can make sure that the system is purged of all old coolant, and that the block doesn't have anything in it.

-Rob :)
 
From their website: http://www.evanscooling.com/main23.htm

Question: What will the COOLANT GAUGE read when using non-aqueous propylene glycol (NPG) coolant?
Answer:

The normal operating range of standard coolant (ethylene glycol and water) is 160°F to 230°F with some cooling systems able to function reasonably well up to 240°F; although as this extreme temperature level is reached, the engine will almost always operate with ever less power and response until it boils over and stalls. At approximately 330°F the coolant warning light would normally light up; a cooling system operating with the more modern needle gauge would indicate higher coolant temperatures as they developed. As NPG contains no water, coolant temperatures can rise to higher levels without a negative impact on the performance of the engine. In fact, with NPG in many cases the activation of the coolant warning light represents a false warning as NPG works very well at 330°F. Gauges may show the needle at 330°F, a temperature probably located in the red, but again, no concern is warranted with NPG coolant.
 
In other words, temp starts to skyrocket as you climb a hill, and you just keep running, and hoping that nothing will go wrong! Wouldn't that give you the willies? Maybe I'm just too paranoid to use this product...

-Rob :)
 
iamdave0887 said:
on the topic of never overheating i found a company that makes what seems to be an All aluminum tig welded(for the tanks on either end) Radiator for the 6.5 and loads of other vehicles at that.

I"m sure that will help cool over the stock radiator.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/
Click to expand...

Wow - $128?. That's affordable. Out of stock, though.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator-gmc-yukon-1995-6dot5l_v8_400.htm

Are these guys for real? A normal GM OEM unit is like 500-600 dollars.

-Rob :)
 
TurboTahoe said:
Wow - $128?. That's affordable. Out of stock, though.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator-gmc-yukon-1995-6dot5l_v8_400.htm

Are these guys for real? A normal GM OEM unit is like 500-600 dollars.

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

Buddy of mine bought one for an S-10. i can't remember the exact price but it was around $100. I"ve never bought a radiator for my truck from them, but after seeing the quality of the product and save for a tiny leak on the auto trans line(not the radiators fault that line's hold down clamp was mangled) everything went smoothly on the install as well.


i wonder if they have to be called for the aluminum rads? it's not everyday you sell an aluminum rad for a 6.5 you know. that could be part of the low price i guess. if they have shelves of these things pre-built then there's storage costs and the cost of making all of them hoping someone will need one. if they make it when you call them that makes sense to me.
 
I personally would spend my Hard earned Bucks on a better radaitor and a good fan clutch that can suck the heat out of the good O'll green stuff.

All the trick tech is not gonna fix the base issue.

** A clean and efficient radiator and a good working fan***

Its not at all hard to keep a 6.5 cool if the radiator is clean, the pump is flowing right with a good 180F stat and a fan that will hook up and SUCK air

BEWARE

The cheap radiators in most cases have "epoxied" cores.

The tubes are fastened into the header with an epoxy resin.

The OEM stuff is "aluminum brazed" and will not crack as the epoxy can and does.

I bought an OEM replacement quality radiator from MACS here locally.

Aluminum Brazed core and plastic tanks (OEM config) $235

Made by Visteon

The OEM at the Ma General store is about $500+ for same stuff.



Best

MGW
 
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Amsoil has an antifreeze that does not have to be changed till 7 years or 250,000 miles. Here is more info;

Boiling Point (sea level):

219° F at 40 percent concentration
222° F at 50 percent
225° F at 60 percent
increase by 40° to 45° F if a 15 psi radiator cap is used.

Here is a link to it;

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ant.aspx

I do not know if this compares fully to the other stuff but, it can be purchased by our supporting vendors. :thumbsup:
 
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Evans works for me.

I've been using it over a year in the 'burb. Cleaned the rad/condensor.oil cooler stack of an insect and shrub collection. Replaced the t-stat with a 190 long one from GM. Flushed the system TWICE with prestone heavy duty flush, then used Evans prep fluid before filling with the NPG+ coolant.
with dual AC/heater in the 'Burb, summer running loaded up the Baja desert mountains, never gets over 190 deg F. We also drive up Cajon pass on nice hot summer days to Owens valley. I run a zero pressure cap, but Evans thinks I should run at least 7lbs. When Youngest son gets his law degree, I'll start switching over the rest of the fleet... :thumbsup:
 
TurboTahoe said:
In other words, temp starts to skyrocket as you climb a hill, and you just keep running, and hoping that nothing will go wrong! Wouldn't that give you the willies? Maybe I'm just too paranoid to use this product...

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

It says it disperses heat 32% better, so it will take longer before it starts to climb. Perhaps its safer at higher temps because it can take the extreme heat away from the heads and block before they crack, but I still wouldn't say its safe to run 230 with the blocks we have.

BUT if it can shed the heat that much better, perhaps it wont get over 210 when regular A/F would be 230... Hard to prove. I'm all for a chemically superiour product.

Who knows what the truth is.

Need someone like Aces to try it to see if it magically makes his overheat issue go away :)

Also, it says eliminates overheating, It may help alot with pressure bursting, however we don't really have that issue. We need help at 210 and under.
 
Dmax's have same problem we gots it seems...
Click to expand...


This is a highly controversial question with numerous million dollar answers.

This supposedly plagued the 04.5 and 05 trucks with the second generation LLY's. Now, I had an LLY for 3 years and I never had a problem. I guess the cooling system was sub par for the amount of power the truck made and there are several theories about why they overheated, although to this day, no one, to include GM can tell us why.

When you worked them hard, they'd run hot. Real hot so that all the bells and whistles go off and it reduces power electronically automatically. I worked mine pretty good on every grade along the east coast, some with full throttle romps with 4-5 tons in tow, running a 90 h.p. tune. I only heard the fan kick on a handful of times. Some say that by the time you heard the fan it was too late. Some say the gauges lie. Some say it didnt effect all LLY's. Some say it did. Some could overheat with 1000 lbs in trail on flat ground. Some couldnt get it over 200 degrees with 20k going up a grade at 100 degrees at 80 mph. All we know now is that none of these trucks were the same. They all vary in mileage, performance and towing abilities. No two are alike and this goes for all 4 generations so far, covering years 2001 through 2009.

After years of bickering about this on many sites like this, people came up with some ideas to fix the problem that GM could never solve. The V2 radiator, built by TXChristopher and tested by Rick Lance was the most successful modification to the issue. GM learned their lessons as well by strengthening the cooling systems substantially for the 2006 model year and the intro to the 3rd generation.

I've never heard of anyone installing a TXC V2 radiator to a 6.5 but I'm sure it would work wonders. I'm curious about fitment of those into these trucks.
 
Anyone have a pic or a link to v2 website? Everything I find doesn't work, and all the messages have been saying this since december...
 
Unit453 said:
After years of bickering about this on many sites like this, people came up with some ideas to fix the problem that GM could never solve. The V2 radiator, built by TXChristopher and tested by Rick Lance was the most successful modification to the issue. GM learned their lessons as well by strengthening the cooling systems substantially for the 2006 model year and the intro to the 3rd generation.

I've never heard of anyone installing a TXC V2 radiator to a 6.5 but I'm sure it would work wonders. I'm curious about fitment of those into these trucks.
Click to expand...


Figures it's built by a member......Thanks for the info Nick.
 
dangerousdave said:
I've been using it over a year in the 'burb. Cleaned the rad/condensor.oil cooler stack of an insect and shrub collection. Replaced the t-stat with a 190 long one from GM. Flushed the system TWICE with prestone heavy duty flush, then used Evans prep fluid before filling with the NPG+ coolant.
with dual AC/heater in the 'Burb, summer running loaded up the Baja desert mountains, never gets over 190 deg F. We also drive up Cajon pass on nice hot summer days to Owens valley. I run a zero pressure cap, but Evans thinks I should run at least 7lbs. When Youngest son gets his law degree, I'll start switching over the rest of the fleet... :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Dave! Tell us more. I've been reading about Evans for YEARS, but never really got anyone to tell me any detailed information on it. Tell us about the install, what did you do to get all the water out, did you need to use the block drains, etc. Details!

We'd all like to know!

Also - Welcome to the forum!

-Rob :)
 
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