• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Never overheat again?

Here's an idea, one of Y'all with a C-2500 'Burb like mine, come on out here on vacation, then we convoy over the mountain to Las Vegas for a weekend. After the round trip, we compare apples to apples. :grouphug:
We have a timeshare out there we need to use this year, and we like to go in the summer, fewer tourists. I won't pop for fuel or food, but I may be able to cover the stay at the resort, will have to consult wifey.
 
dangerousdave said:
Here's an idea, one of Y'all come on out here on vacation, then we convoy over the mountain to Las Vegas for a weekend. :grouphug:
We have a timeshare out there we need to use this year, and we like to go in the summer, fewer tourists. I won't pop for fuel or food, but I may be able to cover the stay at the resort, will have to consult wifey.
Click to expand...

:iagree::willynilly::fest30::partay::banana::yeah:

How bout I take your word for it :th_CONGRA34:.....you "pop" for the "Penthouse suite" at the "Luxor":sifone::eek:k::thumbsup::cool3:........i'll get myself there and I'll "pop" for all the food and booze :shots: also all the fuel you can use! :drive::auto:

:postwhore: <-me-> :Justwait2: Whaddayathink :bigok::yo:
 
:haha: :rofl: :lmao:
dangerousdave said:
Here's an idea, one of Y'all with a C-2500 'Burb like mine, come on out here on vacation, then we convoy over the mountain to Las Vegas for a weekend. After the round trip, we compare apples to apples. :grouphug:
We...will have to consult wifey.
Click to expand...

Nice edit on the quote, but sounds like a fun time. :smilielol5:

You sure you don't have a Suburban 6.5 in the yard?
 
:iagree: I've seen plastic balls hanging under the back bumpers of some wannabe trucks, but BOWLING balls,
THAT would be impressive!!:icon16:

Hmmm, drill through, chains to hang by, attach to hitch, sure, doable.

Am I still looking for a coolant tester?
Oh, wait; didn't Evans already test this stuff?!!
:drama:
 
Am I understanding this correctly.

"Overheating" is the point coolant looses its ability to maintain contact with the heads and accept heat. Or in other words once coolant boils it looses the interface and won't absorb any more heat and the metal just increases in temperature until the point high temperature causes problems more than likely piston cylinder gualling. And this could be considered thermal runaway.

Our heads are so hot the avg temp reading of our gage reads 215 but the gradient means at 215F 220F on the gage the coolant could be local boiling and failing. But with Evans it won't localize boil and will keep accepting heat and carry it to the radiator (which as temperature difference increase will increase heat dissipation to air).

I accept this if other key factors are not over the limit as well: EGT, oil temperature, and diesel fuel temperature (remember our IP is in the valley of the engine and are exposed to high heat.

So I would say Evans could be acceptable solution if one measured oil, EGT, and diesel fuel temp and further more would have to correlate at which point the new coolant indicates too much heat ie at 250F-270F.

This also assumes the heads are not getting so hot they are cracking between valves or the block is not getting too hot and the head bolts are not getting too hot and loosing clamping strenght. I really don't think the 6.5 could tolerate 330F ECT.
 
I am afraid mine has cooked itself. We'll find out in a week. Just running hot, sometimes for no reason and getting air into the top hose. Thinking compression leak.

Tired of the eternal money/time pit.
 
I talked to the owner of Evans for about an 30 mins today, pretty nice guy. I have ordered some for my turbo Caravan. He said not to use a rad cap, just cut off the lower part and vent it to an overflow tank. I should be able to run lower octane gas due to the heat transfer so I'll see if I can run higher boost on 89 octane, :thumbsup:
 
dangerousdave said:
"1989 Dodge Caravan daily driver, 2.5L TIII DOHC Turbo. 12.85@105 mph-11's are coming. Turbo let go, GT35R going on."

Wow, what a sleeper! Most admirable, Turbo-san.
Click to expand...

I remember back in 89 or so my Dad's buddy had one of those new. I remember it could easily spin the tires stock then.
 
Matt Bachand said:
I remember back in 89 or so my Dad's buddy had one of those new. I remember it could easily spin the tires stock then.
Click to expand...

Stock, they had a small turbo that spooled off idle, but sucked up top, with the turbo maxed out, ic and traction, good for low 15's and if you are good, you can get 14's out of them but thats a boatload of work. Put a TII turbo on, and you can run high 13's and low 14's all day long. :thumbsup: Of course this depends on weight, mods, etc. Mines a tank at 3650 lbs with me in it and has the A/C, everyone removes it for a bigger IC but I like to stay cool, :cool:

If anyone wants, I can link or put some pictures up in another thread, plus I have the vid of the run, not very good but gets the job done. ):h
 
We have been selling Evans coolant for 7 years and use it ourselves. When we had the 6.5TD it worked well. You don't need a special water pump. As long as the truck has got a clean coolant system you will not have any issues with it. The only thin I recommend is replace your thermostats with Robert Shaw stats. The open further and will allow more flow. Run your stock cap because the pressure will be low anyway. The coolant has to be near boiling point to vaporize and its the vapor that builds pressure. Do not drill a hole in the cap and run zero pressure. One problem is when the engine cools down it will draw in air and then moisture enter the system and that is what you don't want. Also I have seen the rad hose collapse if it has pulled hard and then all of a sudden you peak the hill and it cools off fast. The hardest part about switching is flushing all the old coolant out. On the 6.5 the bloack drains are hard to get to. But once you flush it out you can fill it up and the leave the rad cap loose and block the rad . Drive it so it gets to 220* or more so the excess water can boil out. You are allowed 2% water but why not get it all out. $27.50 a gallon when buying 4 gallon or more.

Greg
 
I'm just adding these photos to all recent overheating discussions

Clean out that fan clutch!

On a long trip recently, didn't like my temperatures, so with minimal tools, I decided to look into the fan clutch mod. I didn't do the mod, but may later. Look at the gunky gunk. Cleaning it off helped get that fan to engage sooner, and high temps have been mitigated for now.

There is a gigantic climb to the north of Boise, with usual 100 degree temps this time of year. I had a burb full of family, gear etc, two tanks of fuel, and the AC cranked.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1399.jpg
    IMG_1399.jpg
    42.1 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1400.jpg
    IMG_1400.jpg
    43.8 KB · Views: 13
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top