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Need help! In a pickle in Nome, Alaska

if the engine is running and you plug in or un plug the optic sensor with the CPS connected it should die almost immediately. at least that has been my experience. let others chime in though. all my experience is with a 95 (OBD1) your's is on an OBD2 system
 
Make absolutely sure the injector lines are correct on the IP, as previously mentioned.
It does happen and causes your symptoms.
Get the engine harness out from under the intake and inspect it for damage and continuity.
It does not have to be under the intake, it can lay on the pass. side of the intake and still work/fit.
 
Glagulator said:
Make absolutely sure the injector lines are correct on the IP, as previously mentioned.
It does happen and causes your symptoms.
Get the engine harness out from under the intake and inspect it for damage and continuity.
It does not have to be under the intake, it can lay on the pass. side of the intake and still work/fit.
Click to expand...

I'm obviously not familiar with this motor, and I'm definitely not doubting you. I'm happy to do whatever work I need to in order to get this figured out, but can the engine still run extremely smooth with the injector lines crossed? The reason I ask is that we have conditions where the engine will run smoothly, but only with the OS disconnected. I would think that crossing IP lines would make it run rough no matter what, but maybe I'm wrong about that.
 
it is possible. especially if the IP and PCM is searching for the "right" timing so to speak. since the IP has been replaced along with the CPS, the PCM is wanting to "learn" the engine. if and when any trouble codes come up especially when it sees something is out of range things can go haywire.

verifying the injector line order is much cheaper than if you had to get another IP. it's also less work though your just a few more steps to pulling the IP.

clear out the engine compartment of anything loose. pull the upper and lower intake. verify IP lines but don't put it back together yet. you can run the engine without the intake. just clean up the engine valley of anything that can get sucked into the ports, also verify there are NO fuel or oil leaks from anywhere in this area.


when running an engine open like this it's easy to sit the lower intake back down and install a few bolts leaving you a large flat open hole you can use a board on to choke the engine out in the event if a runaway condition.

while you have the intake off, go through the harness looking for anything from a pinched wire that might have gotten caught under the intake to oil saturated wire insulation flaking off causing shorted wires. clean up everything.

also one thing to note. there are three small eyelets with wires on the intake up near the drinkers side rear near the trans dipstick. these are the PCM / ECM grounds. make sure they are in good condition and are fully grounded to the engine. bad grounds can cause a whole mess of issues too.
 
dbrannon79 said:
it is possible. especially if the IP and PCM is searching for the "right" timing so to speak.
Click to expand...

Ah! Excellent information. I'm happy to pull it apart to see. One last question before I do that though.

My father in law said that he thought a couple of the intake bolts go into the water jacket(s). Is this true or is he mistaken? I couldn't find a definitive answer in my super quick search for that info.
 
Ok so here's a list of things to check and verify before we deem parts bad. @Glagulator @ak diesel driver @Paveltolz help me out here on other things he need to check while he has the intake off.

1. pull intake and verify injector lines are in the correct order (check firing order)

2. inspect wire harness for any problems along with making sure all connectors are secure and no corrosion.
 
Are the IP codes still present?

Post 39, timing is correct at 3.5.
Did you perform a “Time Set” function with the scan tool after getting the motor temp up to 170. Engine will slightly stumble during the “handshake” with the PCM and new IP. Then go after TDCO.

If the gauge arrived, what’s the fuel pressure look like; steady or fluctuating which may be causing issues internally for the transfer pump.
IMG_9301.jpeg

Don’t know what the mice issues are in Nome but, any sign of rodents getting in and chewing wires?

On Edit: straw clutching now.
Anything in the airbox, mouse nest?

The only other thing I can think of is fuel, how old. Lack of cetain(sp) or over abundance of water…
 
Last edited:
dbrannon79 said:
Ok so here's a list of things to check and verify before we deem parts bad. @Glagulator @ak diesel driver @Paveltolz help me out here on other things he need to check while he has the intake off.

1. pull intake and verify injector lines are in the correct order (check firing order)

2. inspect wire harness for any problems along with making sure all connectors are secure and no corrosion.
Click to expand...

Check, check, and double check. Injector lines are installed correctly. Wiring and connectors look great. Grounds were a little iffy, but I cleaned those up.

No change in the way it runs. Same MO. Runs like garbage with the OS connected and smooths out to normal with the OS disconnected.

Paveltolz said:
Are the IP codes still present?

Post 39, timing is correct at 3.5.
Did you perform a “Time Set” function with the scan tool after getting the motor temp up to 170. Engine will slightly stumble during the “handshake” with the PCM and new IP. Then go after TDCO.

If the gauge arrived, what’s the fuel pressure look like; steady or fluctuating which may be causing issues internally for the transfer pump.


Don’t know what the mice issues are in Nome but, any sign of rodents getting in and chewing wires?

On Edit: straw clutching now.
Anything in the airbox, mouse nest?

The only other thing I can think of is fuel, how old. Lack of cetain(sp) or over abundance of water…
Click to expand...

Yes, IP codes came back. We performed the "time set" above 170 degrees, cleared the codes, and the IP codes came back after that.

Yes, timing is set correctly.

They sent the wrong gauge and we haven't been able to find another one, so I'm not sure about the lift pump pressure. Just looking at the stream it produces, it looks good and strong. Not that that means a whole lot, but...

Yes, there are rodents, but they don't really bother wiring and stuff like that. They have way too many other things to eat. That said, I did look and I haven't seen any signs of them doing any damage.

Airbox is clear.

No water in the fuel. Fuel is good. That was the first thing we checked when we got here.

WarWagon said:
Also: Sniff test to see if it smells like gasoline.
Click to expand...

I was wondering that too, but nope. All good, no gasoline.

Once again, I can't thank all of you enough. I know I haven't replied to each and every post that people have made, but I've read every one of them and I appreciate every single one of your responses and your willingness to help.
 
Ok, on a stretch while you have things apart where you can get to the IP mounting. with the engine running and the scanner connected, look at the timing section and see what it's showing for "Actual Injection timing" I know it will be bouncing around a bit, but just tell us where it lands most of the time.
 
I apologize for the radio silence. I will explain all that has gone on later, but I have a question...or two.

1) Is it possible to jump a tooth on the drive gear during the installation of a new pump? I don't mean turning the engine over with the pump removed. What I mean is, with all of the ham-fisted shenanigans this truck has been through since it up and quit running, I just want to verify if it's even possible to move the pump gear on the drive gear when the pump is removed or installed.

2) If it is possible to jump a tooth on the drive gear, would the truck even run? Or, is there enough compensation in the system to allow it run, albeit poorly.

I will explain how we got to this point later, but we have a new pump and I'm wondering if I should pull the water pump and cover to verify the drive gear position. This truck was running perfectly before it simply would not start, so nothing would have happened to the drive gear prior to these guys installing two new (rebuilt) pumps. But given how many hands have been on this thing in the past year, I'd like to cross the drive gear scenario off my list of possibilities if possible before installing the third new pump (which we found and picked up from Anchorage yesterday).

dbrannon79, I was not able to get the "actual injection timing yesterday" for several reasons. I will explain later. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I was concerned about that years ago when I did my first IP.
After much trying I could not get it out of time, had TC off for timing set at the time so was easy to check.
I just went out and tried again on an engine with the TC loose and was not able to get the gear to jump.
BUT, it is very close and as Twisted said probably could happen.
Best to verify.
Check crank and cam keys for shear while you are there.
 
Glagulator said:
I was concerned about that years ago when I did my first IP.
After much trying I could not get it out of time, had TC off for timing set at the time so was easy to check.
I just went out and tried again on an engine with the TC loose and was not able to get the gear to jump.
BUT, it is very close and as Twisted said probably could happen.
Best to verify.
Check crank and cam keys for shear while you are there.
Click to expand...
I have the honor of shearing the cam gear key when one of the water pump bolts on the backed walked itself out and jammed it gear. I was able to diagnose by video sent to me by my son as I coached him through it.

If either the cam or crank gear keys shear, the engine won’t start as those gears just spin on the shafts and drive nothing.

As others said, verify. I verified by video of the gear (not moving) shot through the oil filler hole. Then I instructed my son to pull the water pump where he then found the bent bolt that had backed out. Told him to halt work and I would address when I was next down from Montana.
 
My thought was while the IP was out doesn't that gear just float there sitting on the cam gear? during the install could the gear be lifted in the effort to get it on the IP and accidentally ended up one tooth off from where it was?
 
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