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Need help getting my 6.5 work truck going

Also I have a pretty bad cross pipe leak if that could be adding to the problem. I have a new one but don't wanna waste my time on it if I can't get her to run rite anyways.

Leaking crossover probably is not affecting the heat related issue, but definitely want to fix it as a leaky exhaust does effect efficiency in a *big* way.


And the truck has red fuel in it rite now because I left my truck at my dads house last week and he fueled it up with fuel from work if that could be part of my problem also.

Maybe, but not convinced.



Quick searching on P0251 tends to give mixed results that focus on the IP's optic sensor, air in the fuel (which apparently confuses the optic sensor), or insufficient pre-heat (glow plug time) during start as reasons the ECM sets the P0251.
 
Did you try another KNOWN WORKING PMD?

I know you said you put a new PMD, did you test that PMD?
A lot of parts have a probability of DOA.
 
Ok I've been driving the truck 15 miles to work every day with the optical sensor unplugged and it dose not miss any more. It dose crank over longer to start like earlier stated and the engine is louder like timing is off? Also it takes a little more clutch to get it moving or the engine will chug like if u shifted into 4th at 10 mph. It also dose that when rolling down the road around 800 rpm but a little clutch and it goes away. Dose this sound normal?
 
Which one would u be leaning towards? If it's the optical sensor I'll replace that but if it's a pump it's time for a new owner I think. If it was the pump wouldn't it still be acting up?
 
If you feel you could do it yourself change the OS. You'll need a scanner to adjust it tho.

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
Try running about 1/2 gallon out the T drain and fill your filter bowl with Sea Foam. I've had that cure issues for me before. If it doesn't work, your only out $7 for a can of Sea Foam

I've pulled the injection pump return line - ran it to a can, pulled the fuel shut off solenoid and pumped the Sea Foam through and refilled the Fuel filter. It's cheap to try and doesn't waste a lot of time if it doesn't work
 
Thanks jrsavoie I already did the same thing using half atf and half diesel kleen and started it and let the mixture sit in the pump over nite and it made no difference. Can anyone tell me how the truck is supposed to run with the optical sensor unplugged?
 
So I dumped about 3 times the normal amount of fuel additive with slick diesel in the tank and the truck runs quieter and smoother so I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the injection pump is bad? But it doesn't stall and there's no run away throttle. If it is bad dose anyone know a average price to have a new one installed? I don't have the scanner and I'm assuming that I would need some special tools to do it myself?
 
Just found a friend of a friend that has a diesel shop and a used 6.5 out of a wrecked truck laying around that ran till it was wrecked and the motor was pulled. Said he would swap the pump out of that motor and put it in my truck and give me the extra motor also for 1100 bucks. Said 500 labor and 600 for the motor. Dose this sound wise to anyone out there to put a used pump in? I think the price is right tho? Also said he wouldn't do it without selling me the motor so I'm figuring to pull the injectors and ffm and turbo and whatever else I may need and then scrap the block. Or try and part it out to offset the cost? Any input from experienced 6.5 ers is welcomed
 
And just found out the motor has 150k miles on it and it's not the original pump so I'm thinking that the pump can't have that many miles on it? Plus hopefully the injectors were changed at the same time as the pump. Is changing the pump and injectors at the same time common practice?
 
Is changing the pump and injectors at the same time common practice?

It depends on the PO's philosophy and wallet. Running philosophy on the IP and injectors is replace / rebuild at 100K to stay ahead of the truck. Others follow a 'don't fix it if it ain't broke' and 'how long can I limp it' philosophy. So, only the PO can answer what actually happened.
 
The motor is out of a 94 will that pump work in my 1998? Wow I didn't realize how old my truck is until I just read what I wrote. I've always said 88-98 is the way to go hope I'm still rite about that. Dose anyone else have anything to weigh in before I go have someone else work on a vehicle that I own for the first time in my 12 years driving older gm trucks? Dose everyone agree it's the pump? Starts no problem and dosent stall. Maybe I'm just trying to convince myself it's not the pump. I mean I know it has run bad fuel through it but still holding out hope for some reason. I love the truck and just want to get her back on the road and be reliable again. And I don't want to shell out 1100 bucks just to be back in the same boat again
 
I'm buying a remanufactured pump because a new one is not in the budget rite now or u could just call me cheep. Any have any suggestions on where to buy from? Who dose a quality reman job?
 
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