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Need help getting my 6.5 work truck going

Just got off work and gotta go to a bs wedding that I forgot about so truck has to wait atleast another day. Wish I could have some time to myself to get her going with y'all's help. Gonna have to wait for the prognosis
 
Aaron1505 said:
Fuel comes out of the water drain while truck is idling not when truck is off and lift pump is running
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Of course, fuel will not come out when the truck is not running.

LP running and there is no fuel, then you have to check the lines.
May be it has a leak somewhere.
The fuel lines are rubber going under the intake and they are old and brittle.
 
I'm confused. Believe it or not!

JMJNet said:
Of course, fuel will not come out when the truck is not running.

I'm Sorry but that just sounds completely wrong to me. He stated that fuel would not come out with the lift pump running and the truck off, if I understood correctly. From what I understand he had fuel out the bleeder valve with the truck not running but the lift pump jumpered. I do not understand how it could be possible to get fuel out of the drain T with the truck running - without the truck dieing and not get fuel out the drain T with just the lift pump running and fuel coming out the fuel filter bleeder. Sounds like I need to be set straight on what exactly is going on.

LP running and there is no fuel, then you have to check the lines.
May be it has a leak somewhere.
The fuel lines are rubber going under the intake and they are old and brittle.
Click to expand...

Changing the fuel lines on these old beasts is never a bad idea for preventive maintenance. Be sure to use line compatible with new diesel and bio-diesel, Grangers maybe?
 
jrsavoie said:
I'm confused. Believe it or not!
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Me too! Should have fuel when the lift pump is running. If this is correct somehow he is monitoring the return line? Incorrect setup or confused post?
 
I think he means truck off AND lift pump ON??, but yeah its confusing. Aaron fuel is going to come out the drain and or FFM bleed anytime LP is on and T valve/air bleed is open UNLESS there is a problem.
 
I wasent getting fuel with the lift pump jumpered but was with truck idling. I guess I didn't have the t valve turned out far enough because I opened it more and fuel came spraying out. So I think the lift pump is good. Went over all the grounds yesterday and fixed 2 broken ones behind the front pass side tire on the frame and found 3 wires next to the ffm that had been spliced sometime in the past by the po I think they were orange green and white. When I touched the orange one it came apart due to corrosion in the crimp connector. And there has been no change without another new pmd yet. But I did unplug the optical sensor and ran the truck with the upper intake off and it cranked for 10 seconds and then started with my foot to the floor and seemed to run normally. Just idling in the drive tho. With the optical sensor unplugged I only got codes 0251 and 0370 but with optical sensor plugged in I also get 0606. I also get boost codes but I think those don't really matter rite now.
 
P0606 per the manual if code P0370 was also set than troubleshoot P0370 first.

Ground on top of the IP needs cleaned. Make sure the grounds on the back of the engine are A1 condition - you already worked on them.

Ground and positive battery cable condition? Internal corrosion in them?
 
And the wedding went how anyone could expect. Saw a bunch of people I used to party with and ended up drinking entirely too much booze. Lots of Irish whiskey and Budweiser makes Aaron very un productive the next day or two.
 
Where would u start diagnosing the 0370 code? The batt cables were new last year and dosent feel like any bulges in the cables. All stainless connectors on 1 year old batts
 
Its just a thought and i could be way wrong here but, Is there a possibility that airated fuel could b causing some of the problems that I've been experiencing? Like I said earlier I'm new to diesel. So I've been doing a lot of reading to try to learn as much as I can and I've read about some people having that problem and throwing the same codes as mine.
Also would it be un advisable to try to test drive the truck with the optical sensor unplugged? The optical sensor is the plug in the center of the injection pump facing back at the cab rite?
 
Drain some fuel out of the water drain into a clear glass jar. Let it sit for 10 min and see if there is any water on the bottom of the container. Does the diesel have a gasoline smell? Water or gasoline in the diesel can cause this. So will air. Gasoline can become 'air' vapor... Bubbles.

How long have you run the engine and you are still getting air bubbles in the return line? Manual calls to eliminate air in the fuel 1st then everything else. Air bubbles will mess up the optic sensor readings and pop a code.

Old thread on here about these codes.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?7141-P0251-P0370-and-now-P0606-all-from-WIF
 
I've run the engine for maybe 5 minutes max total between checking after cleaned grounds and wire splice fixes and optical sensor un pluging and pluging back in. And letting it run for a sec to charge the batteries after the longer cranking. Ill check on the condition of the fuel when I get home and let ya know. Thanks again for the advise and continuing to post on my thread,I think it's called.
 
Aaron1505 said:
Where would u start diagnosing the 0370 code? The batt cables were new last year and dosent feel like any bulges in the cables. All stainless connectors on 1 year old batts
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Yeah, stainless steel is a horrible conductor compared to copper, aluminum, or even zinc. I suggest rethinking those connectors. They are very resistive, and promote electrolisys pretty bad, which starts a bad cycle. Copper has a conductivity of just over 400 W/m.k and the best stainless is like 16 to as low as 12 depending on metalurgy.
 
I've been using stainless allen screws for the battery bolt mod, for many years. I also use copper coat and have never had a battery post issue. The only battery post issue I've had is the OEM battery bolts stripping out and allen screws with to long a taper. I had to cut the taper off to have enough threads to hold. The hardware is not part of the connection.



Will L. said:
Yeah, stainless steel is a horrible conductor compared to copper, aluminum, or even zinc. I suggest rethinking those connectors. They are very resistive, and promote electrolisys pretty bad, which starts a bad cycle. Copper has a conductivity of just over 400 W/m.k and the best stainless is like 16 to as low as 12 depending on metalurgy.
Click to expand...
 
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