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Need help getting my 6.5 work truck going

A

Aaron1505

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Northwest Indiana
Ok everyone my truck started acting like it needed a new pmd so the local junk yard just got in a 99 3500 hd so I robbed the pmd for 10 bucks threw it in and truck ran perfect for two days then started dying again and idling on what sounded like 2 cylinders so I ordered a new pmd and that turned out not to b the prob I got code 0236,0238,0251,0370,0606. I just un plugged the optical sensor and now it idles but cranks for like 10 seconds before it'll start and I have to hold the throttle to the floor for it to fire. I put in a new fuel filter and pmd and found a broken ground strap on the back of the motor but fixed it but it didn't fix my problem. The lift pump is working and I slowly ran it up to 2k and back to idle. No smoking but rear pass side injector sounds loud but that may b inside the valve cover haven't gotten that far yet tho. Oh and I've been running off road fuel for the last year but just switched back to pump fuel and that also seems to b right about the time my problems started. Maybe it's just coincidence. Any help would b greatly appreciated since I need this truck for my construction work
 
Filling out the trouble shoot list might help with this one.

You fixed the broken ground, but did you remove and clean all of the ground wires, not just at that location?
Pmd swap cleaned up for a couple days, remove and clean contacts maybe? Bad grounds can wipe out a pmd.
Lift pump is working. What is fuel pressure and volume?

The "off road fuel" is the same diesel that you would normally get from that supplier with a red dye added. It will burn exactly the same, and if you had no problems with the optics running it for that long, it should not cause anything switching back to clear. If anything the optic should read more accurate, not worse. Wile working for fuel company we ran several 6.5s on non tax fuel with no issues.

Acting like it is running on 2 cylinders and needing to have wot for starting is probably a by product of the injection pump being told to cut fuel by the electrical system.
 
Well I know the lift pump works because fuel shoots out of the air purge valve on the filter but when I open the t valve I get nothing coming out of the hose. The pmd didnot get mounted on a heat sync because I didn't have one at the time I just plugged the new one in under the upper intake because of time. But since I got a new one and plugged that one in with no change can't that b ruled out? And the broken ground was the big woven one and it looked like it'd been broke for a while and the original pmd is still on the ip so I don't know what resister was in there but the one that came with the pmd from the junk yard is a 2,if that makes any difference
 
PMD's need the heatsink, they can be ruined very fast without mounting them to a proper surface. The t valve is to drain the water in the bottom of the filter housing, when you open that you should get fuel to come out just like the top of the filter.

PMD's are a common failure item, id test with a known good PMD on a heatsink behind the bumper so it gets proper airflow. There is also a test to check lift pump operations on this forum.
 
So the water drain is supposed to flow fuel when the truck is off but lift pump running? And I just plugged the new pmd in like that for now just too see if it made any difference until I get the cooler and extension harness.
 
It can cause it to fail because it can rapidly over heat.

The water drain is supposed to flow fuel whenever you open it.

You can jumper wire the lift pump with a spade connector up by the under hood fuse box. Sometimes the connector can be hard to find. Just hook up a fused jumper wire with a spade connector on the end and the lift pump should run. If it doesn't check lift pump plug for juice with the connector plugged in

Aaron1505 said:
And can the pmd not being bolted to anything cause it to fail because its not grounded or something like that?
Click to expand...
 
P0236 = Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0238 = Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0251 = Injection Pump Cam System
P0370 = Timing Reference High Resolution System Performance
P0606 = PCM Internal Communications Interrupted

Quick google.
PMD's like said can be ruined very fast like that.
 
Ok I know the pmd can b ruined that way but I have one I just got from Pensacola diesel and when I plugged it in there was no change so I think I've ruled that out. The lift pump makes noise and when it's pumping fuel will spray out of the top of the filter breather but get nothing out of the water drain. Is that normal has anyone ever had that happen? When the truck is idling it will flow fuel out of the water drain when opened. But what is something that can give me all those codes? Dose anyone have any ideas where to start? Like I said I don't have much experience with diesels.
 
I recently bought two 6.5 trucks and in both trucks all my problems were grounds and PMD modules. in both trucks I replaced the PMD relocation kits from http://www.leroydiesel.com/ and I haven't had a problem since. I'd replace the PMD using the relocation kit and check all the grounds. Somewhere on this sight is a list of all the grounds on a 6.5.
 
You can't just say: "I didn't ruin it." and make it be true.

No heat sink fries the PMD's. Even for testing time can overheat them. When they fry the ECM can do funny things and set weird codes from the dead short.

Bad PMD's can put 6.5's in the junk yard...

Again start with grounds esp the ones at the rear of the engine block.
 
Ok thanks a lot guys I've just gotta make time to work on the ol beast it's not easy without a garage. Ill let y'all know what I come up with. Hope it's as simple as a bad ground and pmd. Except the pmd is the expensive part. And I started replacing some grounds and batt cable last year with welding cable so I guess it's time to finish the job
 
when I plugged the new one in it made no difference in the operation of the engine and I felt it and it was barely warm so I don't think I over heated it because it was way cooler than the temps the old one mounted on the ip. And it only ran the truck for less than about 10 seconds. Do u think 10 seconds could generate enough heat to fry a pmd
 
Yes it could, it also has been known to be wiped out by a screwy electrical signal, but before you put in Another one, remove and clean all the grounds and the studs they attach to-this can not be stressed too much.

Next- you should have flow out the valve. Run a jumper wire to the lift pump and open the valve. If nothing the pull out the fuel filter and the standyne "last ditch" screen under the filter in the housing. Be patient it is a pain, but make sure it is clean. It is rare in you rig but I have seen dirt build up in the drain port of the valve. If you have to remove the hose at the ip input to verify fuel then do it. What is the pressure? It is possible to have good flow but not enough pressure. That alone is enough to cause an issue.
 
You may have had a insect plug up your water drain? Its pluged in some way. If you get fuel spraying out of FFM then it will blow out the drain also unless its pluged or valve not actualy opening?
Seems like most important grounds to check are back of intake by trans dip stick area.
 
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