My Ongoing Repair Thread for my 93 - Lots of Pics, Vids, and Details. Please HELP!

[Classified]

Half right... Alt does produce AC power but the diode inside makes it DC not the battery.

Oh yes, thats right! :mad2:

They do have character indeed. Best of luck with the wiring as it looks like a rats nest right now. I agree that the puffing smoke would seem to indicate a miss firing cylinder and in the cold start vid you can see it happen a few times. Rebuilt injectors and new glow plugs can't hurt. Injectors are designed to be replaced at 100000 miles, but that being said mine lasted 225000 miles best I could tell since I'm not the original owner.

Yeah I kinda want to replace the injectors but dont want to spend the money at the same time, LOL. They look to me like they are the originals only because they look old, ha. The truck had 118,000 miles before the speedo stopped working which is why I think they sold the truck, they didnt want to mess with it or didnt know how to fix it. Once I get all the GPs swapped out for new tomorrow, I hope to never see that issue again.

 

[Classified]

Yeah, you can test if the lift pump is working the way its supposed to by seeing how much fuel it pumps out of the T-valve drain while youre powering it. Or putting a pressure guage on the end of the hose instead of letting it drain into a container.

ok cool, do you know how much its supposed to pump out? Or the pressure? I think I read about 3psi, is that correct?

I think maybe you need to advance your timing a little to get rid of the white smoke. either that or you have fouled injectors. do you know if injectors were replaced with engine?

I have been trying to figure out the process in advancing the timing. I know it need a special timing deal to time it correctly but all I want to do is advance it a slight amount and see how much better it works. I just cant figure out how/where to do that.

ALSO!!! When the truck is first started, cold, it smokes, then the timing advance/high idle kicks in and clears out the smoke and small vibration INSTANTLY. So I do think the timing needs to be advanced a tad.

Procerdure??

 

[VW_Lupo_TD]

VW Lupo, did you buy coated pipes, or paint your exhaust black? Im planning to output in front of my rear wheel, and with the long bed and no ext cab doors I think mine will be fine.

just painted it. this week i will start putting on the heath 4incher all the way back again. so it was just a medium term solution anyway.
if you want my pipe you can have it, saves you the time of getting one bent and painting it with heat resistant paint.(PM me)

 

[buddy]

ok cool, do you know how much its supposed to pump out? Or the pressure? I think I read about 3psi, is that correct?

I have been trying to figure out the process in advancing the timing. I know it need a special timing deal to time it correctly but all I want to do is advance it a slight amount and see how much better it works. I just cant figure out how/where to do that.

ALSO!!! When the truck is first started, cold, it smokes, then the timing advance/high idle kicks in and clears out the smoke and small vibration INSTANTLY. So I do think the timing needs to be advanced a tad.

Procerdure??

TD sums up lift pump stuff pretty well in his first post here, but doesnt have the relay like you do.
http://dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=6872

Tells you how much and then what PSI to look for at different stages.

With truck off you have to loosen the IP and turn it clockwise ever so little. 2mm move equals 5°.

 

[Classified]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[JMJNet]

For passenger side, you have to take the wheel fender out.

Those GP protector can be taken off by taking the nut out of it. But it is still easier with fender out.

 

[Classified]

For passenger side, you have to take the wheel fender out.

Those GP protector can be taken off by taking the nut out of it. But it is still easier with fender out.

The wheel fender is out, I couldnt imagine doing this any other way. But the tube nuts.............They are VERY rusted on. Im not sure if Ill be able to get them off. Is that the only way to get to th GPs is to remove the tube?

 

[Turbine Doc]

Welcome to the site, with all the rust you have while your pass side inner fender is out you will want to go over the gnd wires very carefully and make them spotlessly clean, also check to see that the starter support brace is still there, if left on it's own the starter will crack out the block.

What glows did you use, 60Gs are ones you want from part stores, or Bosh Duraterms from Heath, they also sell 60 Gs. You will want to get with the Heath guys they are nutthin but GM 6.2/6.5 experts, as for the fuel lines you will be wanting to go junkyarding, if they haven't rotted thru yet, they ain't far from it, and that will cause you air issues, you can buy new at www.LMCTRUCK.com

 

[Turbine Doc]

The wheel fender is out, I couldnt imagine doing this any other way. But the tube nuts.............They are VERY rusted on. Im not sure if Ill be able to get them off. Is that the only way to get to th GPs is to remove the tube?

No need to pull tubes, 10mm deepwell socket lots of PB Blaster or sea foam, spray liberally let soak, then spray again and soak some more.

If stuck, put modest tension torque on the glow, with extension/breaker bar, then tap breaker bar swivel joint with hammer this will break the rust, once you get a little movement loose, spray again soak, then tighten, "rap & wrench" in & out until you work it free, do not use impact it will break a stuck glow, you don't want to go there :nono:

 

[NVW]

A long needle nose may get in the tube to pull the GP wire and put it back on. Leo

 

[Classified]

Welcome to the site, with all the rust you have while your pass side inner fender is out you will want to go over the gnd wires very carefully and make them spotlessly clean, also check to see that the starter support brace is still there, if left on it's own the starter will crack out the block.

Thanks for the welcome, glad to be here. The support is great so far!!!!!!!!!
The starter strap is still there but the one that also attaches to that same bolt that goes to the frame was shot. I replaced that one but not the starter strap since it wasnt broken or brittle. Should I just replace it anyway?

What glows did you use, 60Gs are ones you want from part stores, or Bosh Duraterms from Heath, they also sell 60 Gs.

I used the 60Gs from Napa

You will want to get with the Heath guys they are nutthin but GM 6.2/6.5 experts, as for the fuel lines you will be wanting to go junkyarding, if they haven't rotted thru yet, they ain't far from it, and that will cause you air issues, you can buy new at www.LMCTRUCK.com

Yeah the lines are pretty bad. I looked around on that LMC site but I had a real hard time finding anything. They dont have fuel line slisted, the only thing close that I could find is "fuel Supply" and it was just one prebent hard line, not the whole thing. Can I just use rubber fuel hose and ditch the hard lines all together?

 

[Classified]

No need to pull tubes, 10mm deepwell socket lots of PB Blaster or sea foam, spray liberally let soak, then spray again and soak some more.

If stuck, put modest tension torque on the glow, with extension/breaker bar, then tap breaker bar swivel joint with hammer this will break the rust, once you get a little movement loose, spray again soak, then tighten, "rap & wrench" in & out until you work it free, do not use impact it will break a stuck glow, you don't want to go there :nono:

Cool, I will give it a shot. The 3 that I have replaced so far have come out real easy. Hopefully these will follow suit.

 

[Classified]

A long needle nose may get in the tube to pull the GP wire and put it back on. Leo

Yeah ill try that, I just dont want to yank on them too hard and damage the GP.

 

[packratt]

Thanks for the welcome, glad to be here. The support is great so far!!!!!!!!!
The starter strap is still there but the one that also attaches to that same bolt that goes to the frame was shot. I replaced that one but not the starter strap since it wasnt broken or brittle. Should I just replace it anyway?

Turbine Doc was referring to the metal bracket that goes from the front of the starter to the block. If the bracket is missing the starter can torque at the rear and either brake the starter bolts or the block.

 

[Classified]

OHHHHH I see, I will put that on the list to check tomorrow. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[packratt]

Here's what it looks like

http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showpost.php?p=29363&postcount=5

 

[jrsavoie]

!3 mm head if metric. one of mine was 7/16 head at starter

 

[Classified]

I have another question. When I turn the key to turn the engine off, it stays running for about 4-5 seconds before turning off. Im figuring its a ground issue somewhere. Is that correct or is it likely something else?

 

[Classified]

BTW, here is the truck that is being worked on. These pics were taken in the spring of 08 when I first bought it. I painted it black with a HVLP gun and a really dark black. I never painted before so its not as good as it could be but it was a fun process. The one pic with the bed up is the way it was painted when I bought it. It was taken the day I bought it. I am going to be grinding the rust down on the bed and painting it brown once I get the engine issues solved. Next winter, if it isnt plowing or salting I want to put a new cab on it or attempt to repair the current one.

A pic of both my trucks!

 

[packratt]

I have another question. When I turn the key to turn the engine off, it stays running for about 4-5 seconds before turning off. Im figuring its a ground issue somewhere. Is that correct or is it likely something else?

Are you talking about the engine or the lift pump? The lift pump will run until the oil pressure drops, thus will continue to run for 4-5 seconds after turning off the engine.