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My new truck

So to keep this thread updated, I installed an Edelmann power steering box and an new rag joint and an Edelmann power steering pump and a pitman arm. I was going to do an inner tie rod but after I got the other stuff done it didn't seem loose anymore. I bought a pump for a 96 to avoid any EVO issues so I had to change the pressure line too. Got it greased and took it for a drive and WOW what a difference, drives like a new truck.
 
So my steering got loose again. Found a stock steering shaft that the rag joint was still tight on and replaced that. Helped but now I have some slop in my new steering box. Also recently discovered that my semi recently changed ball joints were bad too. I discovered that mevotech has an Amazon store so I bought ttx joints from them. Just finished up about an hour ago. Also adjusted the steering box and at least so far, knock on wood, it drives real nice. Talked to a buddy who used to have a gmt400 dually about like mine and he said he was constantly replacing parts on it. He figured it was the IFS and bought a square body to have a solid front axle. I don't buy the IFS being that bad just can't find good quality parts anymore. The OEM parts lasted close to 200k
 
Will L. said:
IFS does work the joints more but you shouldn’t be able to see 10% sooner failure.

Absolutely lower quality parts are plentiful. And with all the online price shopping the entire move by consumers is for cheaper stuff not better quality.
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Not to mention Corporate America's moving almost all production offshore to cheap labor countries, to maximize profits and thus the bonuses into the pockets of the executives who don't give a shit about anything other than how much they can milk out of the company(s) they run for themselves.

And do you think somebody making $15 a day working 12 hour shifts really gives a rat's ass about the quality of what they're making/shipping when the corporation pushes quantity over quality?
 
I've not figured out why, but my 95 seems to eat the idler arm brackets for lunch! I've installed three different brands including the AC-Delco gold and they only last about 3 months before the slop returns. center link on that side starts to get up,down movement.
 
The lateral forces on the linkage just seem to eat up the bushings inside the idler arm bracket, even when greased regularly. Iirc, there was an aftermarket manufacturer 15-20 years ago, that used a pretty stout upper and lower ball bearing inside the bracket to hold the idler arm and eliminated the bushing wear and resulting steering slop, but the name of that manufacturer escapes me.
 
Super Steer made on but as of a couple years ago discontinued the one for the GMT400's. I have been wanting to find out if the taper shaft that fits into the idler arm is the same size between ours and the GMT800's. if so we could make a bracket to mount on the frame like them and use the GMT800 style from super steer.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Super Steer made on but as of a couple years ago discontinued the one for the GMT400's. I have been wanting to find out if the taper shaft that fits into the idler arm is the same size between ours and the GMT800's. if so we could make a bracket to mount on the frame like them and use the GMT800 style from super steer.
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Yeah, unfortunately Super Steer discontinued it recently. Sad. However, word is that Kryptonite is currently working on a new idler arm support.
 
Has not been a long time, nor a lot of miles ago. Installed new upper control arms on both sides.
Yesterday took the truck to the one front end shop to get the inner tie rod ends replaced.
Went back to get the truck and was told that it will not hold alignment as the upper and lower ball joints is bad.
I had all four corners with tires/wheels removed.
Took a pry bar with weight on the lower control arms and pried away to check for slop on them ball joints. Absolutely no give in the upper or lower.
Took the weight off of the lower control arms and rechecked. No slop or give at all.
Was I doing something wrong in the checking procedure or am I being lied to ?
I’ll get on youtube and check for the procedure. I just did it how I had always done the check and if there was a bad Ball Joint there was movement.
 
Easiest way to see the slop in everything but the ball joints takes 2 people. One person in the cab one underneath. Person in the cab starts it and turns the steering wheel back and forth fairly vigorously while the person underneath looks for movement in the joints, tie rod , pitman,idler etc.
 
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