• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My 2005 Yukon XL

Well we will see how this unit holds up. I've got to go to another O'Reillys and grab a second one.
20251112_153217.jpg

Also may have struck a deal on the parts truck I got the front differential from. Hope to harvest the steering gear and pump from it.
 
DieselSlug said:
Had a code come up yesterday, P0137 bank 1 sensor 2. Not sure if I have ever replaced that O2, will have to inspect closer.
Click to expand...
Yep, I did previously replace it. With supposed Genuine GM. First was replaced in July 2024 and the second was October 2024 (both banks).

Need to get the scanner hooked up and see what the voltage output is before I order another. Of course its a week to get another OEM unit. Was thinking about trying an NTK, which supposedly is NGK and I can get that locally. Strange thing is NTK only has a single part number for up and down streams. That just doesn't sit well with me.

And I got the 2nd fan controller:
20251118_162036.jpg
 
Had a click, no crank, no start. Upon further inspection arcing at the starter solenoid. Cleaned up all connections and douched in Fluid Film. NY is why we can't have nice things.
20251122_115019.jpg

All is well in life again.
Screenshot_20251123_190458_Gallery.jpg

Also swapped out the B1S2 with another delco after reading the live data. Nice relatively flat graph with the new sensor. Will see once the monitors run again.
 
They are in. Got the probes installed in the radiator, also got the trigger side all wired up. Due to snow Friday and rain shutting my progress down I have the ground alligator clipped temporarily to the negative battery terminal. I need to find a good long term ground spot. I have the pot switches turned all the way down right now. Let the tuning begin.
20251125_131231.jpg
20251125_134145.jpg
 
Something you might think about once you get it all tuned in. snag up one of those cheapo harbor freight water tight boxes, the smaller ones. drill a hole or slot under the gasket were you can get all the wires in and the probes out. this will keep the thermal switches protected from the elements like salt and what not. if there is room to mount it all, you can move your aux fuses, relays and what not in there too for your plow attachment
 
dbrannon79 said:
Something you might think about once you get it all tuned in. snag up one of those cheapo harbor freight water tight boxes, the smaller ones. drill a hole or slot under the gasket were you can get all the wires in and the probes out. this will keep the thermal switches protected from the elements like salt and what not. if there is room to mount it all, you can move your aux fuses, relays and what not in there too for your plow attachment
Click to expand...
Agree for sure. We may change this up. They are calling for 6-plus inches of lake effect Friday so I kinda jumped quick on the install. Thats a good call on the HF boxes.

The plow wiring is actually very "plug and play". The only splices needed are to the turn signals behind the marker lights. Im running out of real estate quick under the hood woth the dual battery and plow setup! I am planning an aux fuse block for ditch lights to aid in plowing at night. Hopefully we get some good plow pics Friday!
 
I have a ground on the left side of My truck.
Seems the headlamps and etc might be connected to that.
I run a 10 gauge ground wire from that to the engine block.
I have read that adding extra grounding wires can be counter productive but I did not want to depend on a flimsy body to battery ground to do the job.
 
Went and looked at the $100 parts truck today. It gets rougher everytime I look at it. Its currently broke into almost 3 pieces, right behind the cab, and at the rear leaf perches. Its a 2006 Chevrolet RC/LB, base model 4wd V8. I would assume a 4.8L, but I have not verified. Its got Fisher push plates and some wiring. Its looks like maybe a MM1 setup as there is no isolation module.

The steering gear and maybe pump is what I really want after my current go around with aftermarket junk. I can't tell 100% if the box is tight as the pitman is disconnected but it seems to move immediately with upper column input. The truck is not Hydroboost, so ultimately concerned with parts compatability. Comparing the part numbers on RA it seems as the gearbox is the same between the 2 trucks. Im on the fence. Really thinking about just splurging after the new year on a red top or blue top gearbox as I just dont want the headache of dealing with this pile.....
 
MrMarty51 said:
I have a ground on the left side of My truck.
Seems the headlamps and etc might be connected to that.
I run a 10 gauge ground wire from that to the engine block.
I have read that adding extra grounding wires can be counter productive but I did not want to depend on a flimsy body to battery ground to do the job.
Click to expand...
I've been adding grounds for decades and never had a problem.

I think the people that have a problem with it have a separate ground issue
 
Went back out to the truck to check how tight the box is with 2 people. Its FAR better than the reman on the Yukon. Also found out the truck is a 4.8L and not a 5.3L. Hope to get it drug home this week or next, its gonna be a fight. No steering and the frame drags behind the cab.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top