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Loss of power and sputtering

Ok straight up per Todd/Bill is good for getting one running, now you need to tweak it a little, maybe 1mm toward the pass side see if it helps, you have IP turning tools or you just doing this by hand?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Ok straight up per Todd/Bill is good for getting one running, now you need to tweak it a little, maybe 1mm toward the pass side see if it helps, you have IP turning tools or you just doing this by hand?
Click to expand...

I plan on taking it to GM and getting it done properly when i get off my 3 week shift here but until then i was more so concerned with what kind of damage will be done by it being timed improperly...

I don't have the proper tools to get in there and do it properly...
 
Dylly said:
I plan on taking it to GM and getting it done properly when i get off my 3 week shift here but until then i was more so concerned with what kind of damage will be done by it being timed improperly...

I don't have the proper tools to get in there and do it properly...
Click to expand...

I'd see if somebody local has the tools, most dealers don't have a clue.
 
Dylly said:
I i was more so concerned with what kind of damage will be done by it being timed improperly...

I don't have the proper tools to get in there and do it properly...
Click to expand...

it can be somewhat out of time and not cause damage just less than optimal performance, sounds like yours is not that far out, as smoke clears once it is up & running
 
Youll need AutoEnginuity, or CarCode, or Tech2 scanner for OBD2. Or you can just run the KOKO procedure now and see if it codes. If it codes move pump back towards passenger side, clear code and run KOKO again. As long as you can get to the IP nuts you can get it done. It might not code, but do you know what TDCO value was before?
 
buddy said:
Youll need AutoEnginuity, or CarCode, or Tech2 scanner for OBD2. Or you can just run the KOKO procedure now and see if it codes. If it codes move pump back towards passenger side, clear code and run KOKO again. As long as you can get to the IP nuts you can get it done. It might not code, but do you know what TDCO value was before?
Click to expand...

X2

plus most independent mechanics/shops that have been around a while have a scan tool they may plug in and read your codes/TDCO for with you and the 2 of you can set it together, quite a few members in Sask possibly a good time for you to meet one of them that has a scan tool

A inexperienced independent mechanic if you are in a bind for time would be the way I'd go, GM mechanic will try to find something "wrong" and won't be able to get it timed until the "wrong" is corrected.
 
Turbine Doc said:
X2

plus most independent mechanics/shops that have been around a while have a scan tool they may plug in and read your codes/TDCO for with you and the 2 of you can set it together, quite a few members in Sask possibly a good time for you to meet one of them that has a scan tool

A inexperienced independent mechanic if you are in a bind for time would be the way I'd go, GM mechanic will try to find something "wrong" and won't be able to get it timed until the "wrong" is corrected.
Click to expand...

Those buggers... I know that DSG is the biggest screwjob in Saskatchewan but i called them up and they claimed they could do it...

I have ScanXL OBD II tool... would i be able to time it with that?

And no, i have no idea what it was before i changed it.
 
I'm not familiar with that tool is it a laptop interface ?, either way so long as it has the ability to display TDCO then yes you can do it yourself.

Way it works, you start vehicle and get it fully warmed up so cold advance timing is not coming into play where coolant is >170F, shut off truck then put APP to floor then key to run (not start/crank) for 1 minute (key on) with APP to floor, then key off for 1 minute and then go for start, PCM will "learn" current IP position.

What normally happens on 1st start after ko/ko learn command has been initiate you'll get a stumble in the idle as it's learning the new position, once it's done that routine read the TDCO setting and move the IP to driver side if retarded, or driver side if too far advanc.

Minor moves are all that are required IIRC from the manual 1mm move=2 degree of timing, you have to move it a couple of times to get the "feel" of the amount of change in a bump move to the IP, repeat as necessary.

Tip loosen the 2 bottom IP mount nuts before the engine gets hot, also mark IP flange with a marker to have a point of reference to know where you started from, it's running now so you want to at least be able to get there if it doesn't play nice.

If it gets to a point that no matter where you move it, it idles like crap, your driver died, partially, I would have never known that until 2 mos ago I had it happen in front of me/Kenny/Matt/Bill wholly coincidental, not related at all to moving the IP, but we were dumbfounded until I plugged in my spare I carry with me..
 
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