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Loss of power and sputtering

The lift pump sticky covers the drain. Its the tube coming off the valve on the t-stat cover, the same place you can easily test LP pressure. It doesnt really drain the filter bowl when you run the LP, just pushes out all the stuff in the bottom and replaces it with fresh fuel. You should do this once a month perhaps to pull out any water. But some people go the extra step when changing filter to suck out whats in there with a pipet or vacuum bulb turkey baster type deal.
 
Do check the fuel system, but what you described sounds like a PMD problem. Only say that because it acted up while on cruise. Very typical of a PMD issue for some reason while on cruise.
Where is the PMD now? What brand? Remote?
 
Burning oil said:
Do check the fuel system, but what you described sounds like a PMD problem. Only say that because it acted up while on cruise. Very typical of a PMD issue for some reason while on cruise.
Where is the PMD now? What brand? Remote?
Click to expand...

Definitely not a PMD issue... I had PMD issues in October and i have Heaths remote PMD kit installed... Besides if it was the PMD it wouldnt kill the cruise... it would kill the truck (which it didnt just went into limp mode)... if anything it would be an ECM issue... Correct me if im wrong...

As a side note... I just installed a new lift pump since mine has 340Km on it already so regardless its either weak, garbage, or going to be garbage in the not to distant future..

AND using the drain thing at the T-stat is what i have been using to prime my fuel filter case so yes... yes i did drain it.
 
Dylly said:
Definitely not a PMD issue... I had PMD issues in October and i have Heaths remote PMD kit installed... Besides if it was the PMD it wouldnt kill the cruise... it would kill the truck (which it didnt just went into limp mode)... if anything it would be an ECM issue... Correct me if im wrong...

.
Click to expand...



Pmds have a wide range of failure symptoms which does include cruise control. Even Heaths with their 7 year warranty have an occasional failure. As a 6.5er it is prudent to have a good back up PMD to eliminate that as a problem. my.02
 
The stored codes suggest a fuel issue. A PMD might leave a mysterious tranny code, maybe a pulse width code or something weird, but not OS codes.

However, you also have some strange indications on the EGTs and EGR codes. Are you running the stock vacuum actuator on the turbo? What does or was your boost gauge read at 80mph. EGTs while cruising empty shouldn't be 800F unless you have no turbo boost at all or too high. vacuum issues can cause either and EGR codes.

Fueling issue likely, but there may be more than meets the eye....:crazy:
 
Dylly said:
Definitely not a PMD issue... I had PMD issues in October and i have Heaths remote PMD kit installed... Besides if it was the PMD it wouldnt kill the cruise... it would kill the truck (which it didnt just went into limp mode)... if anything it would be an ECM issue... Correct me if im wrong...
Click to expand...

Well, like I said it is a very common symtem. All DS4 owners should have a known good spare to help eleminate that source of problem, especialy since PMD issues are so common.
 
buddy said:
The stored codes suggest a fuel issue. A PMD might leave a mysterious tranny code, maybe a pulse width code or something weird, but not OS codes.

However, you also have some strange indications on the EGTs and EGR codes. Are you running the stock vacuum actuator on the turbo? What does or was your boost gauge read at 80mph. EGTs while cruising empty shouldn't be 800F unless you have no turbo boost at all or too high. vacuum issues can cause either and EGR codes.

Fueling issue likely, but there may be more than meets the eye....:crazy:
Click to expand...

I am running the stock vacuum wastegate currently... I placed a $3500 order at Heaths about 3 weeks ago so hopefully they can get everything in and at my door in a month or so... (including TM).

At 80mph it was reading about 4psi but i was bucking a heavy wind so it was working pretty hard against it... and i thought that the EGR code was just because it got fed up with getting to much fuel compared to the air it needed to burn it...

I cruised around with the new lift pump in today and i havent noticed a hickup yet. If it decides to do any funny business ill have some work to do... Sadly i have a HO lift pump on the way from Bill... just didnt get here soon enough... I guess perhaps dual lift pumps will be necessary.
 
From what I can see in your codes looked like the EGR was stuck open, vacuum should have been removed to close valve, but vacuum sensor must have been reading too much vacuum when the solenoids were supposed to be closing it off. If youre getting a reflash to remove EGR all the better and gut that EGR intake.
 
buddy said:
From what I can see in your codes looked like the EGR was stuck open, vacuum should have been removed to close valve, but vacuum sensor must have been reading too much vacuum when the solenoids were supposed to be closing it off. If youre getting a reflash to remove EGR all the better and gut that EGR intake.
Click to expand...

Yeah you're probably right and yes i am getting a reflash with no EGR or MAF ... I actually found a guy that had a non EGR intake from BC and its on its way as we speak. I had no idea i could gut my EGR intake into a non-EGR, i'll have to compare the two when i get all my parts to the door.
 
buddy said:
its much better to get a stock non-EGR, youre going the right way there.
Click to expand...

Right on. One quick question though... I work in the oil field in the summers and have to put a Positive air shut off valve on my truck because of H2S gas + diesels = boom. In doing this i have to cut a couple inches out of the intake tube to fit the valve between the turbo and intak... Is there anyway i can keep my NON-EGR upper intake for when i take off the positive air shut off valve and somehow use my EGR upper (and cut) intake without the EGR system hooked up... Would it work decent that way ... pros, cons, etc.
 
Gut your EGR intake and mod it for your PASOV, then use the non EGR intake for non work periods.
 
New problem... 4 times today i tried to start it and without putting my foot into it the truck would turn over a pile then hump hump and level out but put itself in limp mode ... Tossed all the old codes but when i clear them it leaves :

P0251 - Injector pump 1 rotor/cam

Is this my PMD having issues like mentioned before... Injection pump?

All i've done is change my lift pump to an OE standard one from Napa... 2 days ago.... I still havent found a tool to check my fuel pressure in my small town.

The help is muchly appreciated
 
You still need to do the tests and procedures. Throwing parts at it you might get lucky.
Have you tried blowing the lines out? Could be as simple as dirty tank sock or could be a PMD? wont know till you do some investigation. What else have you done besides new LP?
 
I just did the 2000 RPM test... I slowly depressed the accelerator until it started to pick up rpm ... held my foot there and the truck would pick up to about 1400rpm then it seemed to continue to rev up to 2200 ish... when i tried to slowly let it come down it seemed as if it would just drop from 2200 straight down to idle... no inbetween... (or it was difficult to feather it to an in between rpm)... Injection pump garbage?
 
That can be an indication your IP is going but it could also be air. Any psi gauge will work for temporary diagnoses. I use a 0-30 psi gauge from Princess Auto. Verify pressure and flow before scrapping the IP.
 
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