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Loss of power and sputtering

I've verified flow is fine... in 2 minutes it flowed out 11.25 cups which is close enough to the 12 it should be... So i phoned up Bill and he is fairly certain its my injecton pump ... particular the timing portion is sticking likely because of scoring...

I just went out and bought a new pump today because i dont have the time to keep testing to try figure out why it stalled twice today, failed the 2000 RPM test, runs like a John deere in sub zero weather.... My optimism is lost ... I think only money can fix this one.
 
But if you have an air leak, which will screw up the RPM test, then youll have an expensive new IP and still have the problem. Did you check for air at the IP with some clear lines? Or sneak a peak at the lines above the fuel tank.
 
buddy said:
But if you have an air leak, which will screw up the RPM test, then youll have an expensive new IP and still have the problem. Did you check for air at the IP with some clear lines? Or sneak a peak at the lines above the fuel tank.
Click to expand...

Ok. My heavy duty mechanic of an uncle is finally home and i'm going to shoot over and borrow his fuel pressure test guage.

How would i check for air in the IP lines... From the filter to the pump (that line)?
 
It will work there, some put in a permanent clear line on the return IP fitting.
 
How is it running now? I would get a clear line and check for air before anything else is done.
 
The presence of pressure does not eliminate the air leaks. it prevents them from the LP to the filter manager and filter manager to the IP.

However the LP is still sucking fuel from the tank which is a vacuum, so any pin holes between tank and LP will suck air and wont leak during operation, but possibly weep when truck is off. Taking the fuel cap off or at least leaving it loose can help alleviate air issues because it makes it easier for the LP to pull the fuel when there isnt vacuum in the tank. Its not a solution but can help a little.

The best way would be to pop off fuel input of the IP. With like a 18" of 1/4" clear line couple it to the fuel line and loop back into the IP input. With the line on the IP inlet run the LP to prime the line and push any air out then tighten clamp on IP input. Thats to prevent more air than necessary getting pumped in. start the truck and watch the line for tiny air bubbles, use a magnifying glass if you dont see anything blatent. Run RPMs up at idle to see if it changes.

You might be able to see the top of the fuel tank with an inspection mirror to see if the steel lines are corroded. You might see this

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=128201&postcount=36
 
This is another current thread most likely air in the fuel
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=23040

The manual actually states that the OS codes can be caused by air in the fuel system.

And the explanation Bill gave doesnt really jive with your codes. Its telling you it didnt even count cam pulses, like it couldnt see them, not that it couldnt actually adjust the timing correctly. That would lead to a stepper motor error. Im not saying the IP is not at fault, just that there are other causes for the symptoms. If it were just a bad OS then when in limp mode it should be a dog but not stutter.
 
Last edited:
buddy said:
This is another current thread most likely air in the fuel
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=23040

The manual actually states that the OS codes can be caused by air in the fuel system.

And the explanation Bill gave doesnt really jive with your codes. Its telling you it didnt even count cam pulses, like it couldnt see them, not that it couldnt actually adjust the timing correctly. That would lead to a stepper motor error. Im not saying the IP is not at fault, just that there are other causes for the symptoms. If it were just a bad OS then when in limp mode it should be a dog but not stutter.
Click to expand...


When it goes into limp mode it only stutters at high rpms BUT is a dog getting up there.
 
I ended up changing the pump because i needed to get out to work (750km one way) and couldn't continue trying to trouble shoot the issue... Seems to be running fine although i haven't got the pump timed properly... I picked it up wednesday evening, ripped into the truck until 1am that night... worked from 9am - 1am the next day and finally on friday i had it running at noon and buggered off to work by 2 that day... and hasn't had any issues yet... BUT...

Since it hasn't been timed it throws white smoke when i start it (and hasn't coded yet)... whats the long term damage this could cause..?

Believe me ... the first thing i'm going to do when i get home is get it timed but that will be probably after 2000-2500km (total... to work, at work, and back).
 
Generally it means it is too far advanced and you are getting raw fuel, should be similar type of heavy white/grey as one would see if glows are not working. Is it correct to make statement this smoke started occurring after the new IP install ???

Even though working before have you verified glows are working still with the new IP ?
 
Is that white smoke when warm?

It might mean there is air in the lines :peace:

Which could be air from the IP change that will work itself out. Or like you were thinking it could be too retarded. Depends if you lined up the IP flange with the timing mark or not.
 
Rule 1 when installing new IPs, especially one with dual stat and PITA access, snug tight only bottom 2 IP nuts and use top one to lock down the IP between timing adjustments, I've run years with mine that way, some aren't comfy with that and want to snug all 3 to tight, which is fine once you have set your final desired timing & TDCO.
 
I have not confirmed my glow plugs are working properly but i would assume they are because when i fire it up it puffs a good shot of white then clears for a second then little puff of white then clears up (assume it clears up because of the after glow cycle)...

Yes it only started after the new pump install ... It used to give a nice shot of black before.

Yes as well when its warm (~ 20C)

I didnt realize there was a timing mark... I just did what todd & bill told me to do... Get that cylinder straight up and down... I leveled it before i pulled the pump and it was tilted slightly to the drivers side... SLIGHTLY... so i slightly tilted it to the drivers side but i know it wasnt quite as much because after pissing with it for an hour i was getting frustrated and thought i was as close as i would get.... Where are these timing marks?

As for the air... It has already had about 1000km through it including passing and cruising so it has seen the whole rpm range... hopefully theres no air still.
 
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