• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Loss of power and sputtering

Dylly

Dylly

Member
Messages
183
Reaction score
3
Location
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
I was on my way out to the oil field in alberta for work (700km from home)... Had the cruise set to 130km/hr (~80mph) egts running around 800F.. and about km 500 the cruise kicked off and lost a pile of power and would start to sputter as it got up to around 3000rpm.

I shut it off, and started it back up and it was fine.

When driving back home it did it again but around km 300...

Any thoughts as to whats going on or why?
 
It would be nice to know what fuel pressure was. A tank clog can do this type of stuff, shutting it off releases the clog for a small amount of time.

No codes?
 
I'm not sure what the fuel pressure was but on the subject of clogs... I changed the fuel filter that morning before i left... coincidence?

The conglomeration of codes included:

P0251 - Injector pump 1 rotor/cam
P0370 - Timing reference high resolution
P0402 - EGR flow Excessive
P1191 - Intake air duct leak
P1406 - EGR position sensor performance
 
Quite a few.

Clear them and see what comes back. Remove wirebrush reinstall all grounds. Specific attention to ground straps behind downpipe, and rear pass side tranny dipstick area. Believe PCM grounds there.

remove clean all fuses and relays too.

Need a solid ground base before diagnosing anything on these trucks.
 
Hook up the fuel pressure gauge too and make sure your not clogged in the tank. Afew of them seem like they could happen if the IP was starved for fuel.
 
I talked to Bill today about my order and ran the codes past him and he figures when you see 251 and 370 together it usually means that the lift pump cant keep up to the injection pump. Good thing i have a lift pump on the way from Bill anyway... Thanks for the ideas guys... I'm going to clean up my grounds anyway while i wait
 
umm, could one of the moderators move this thread, it's, well, in the performance section. This is a troubleshooting question.

yeah, thanks.
 
Could be from lift pump being weak, but because there was air entering the lines. Like because you maybe didnt seat the filter down correctly when you changed it that day. It only goes in one clocked position for proper seating on the OEM type. Also make sure there arent extra gaskets left on the filter manager, it can cause problems.

Or just rusty lines above the fuel tank. Or did you add any additives recently, fuel system cleaners, or special lubricators?
 
Thanks a lot for moving this, I'm sorry for putting it up in the wrong category. And I think you guys are right about the lift pump... i read the diagnostic section and its exactly what its doing... Hopefully it can hang in there until Bill sends out all my parts (lift pump included).
 
It's gotten progressivly worse... esspecially today... started sputtering at road speed so i went to the tap at the front of the engine just to see how well the lift pump is dumping fluid...

I got my brother to flip the key and it would only pump diesel out while in the glow plug cycle then quit? any ideas why it wouldn't keep pumping?

And when the truck is running it feels like the lift pump is pulsing ... so i assume its working... likely not up to par but it is doing something.
 
This is a very simple thing to test. On an OBDII truck the LP runs during WTS, crank and operation. It doesnt run just from ignition on, PCM controls it during WTS. check the pressure while its idling. Have you done any other checking? Did you drain the water/crud out of the filter manager before swapping filters, did you recheck the clocking and that filter is properly seated? What additives have you put in lately?
 
buddy said:
This is a very simple thing to test. On an OBDII truck the LP runs during WTS, crank and operation. It doesnt run just from ignition on, PCM controls it during WTS. check the pressure while its idling. Have you done any other checking? Did you drain the water/crud out of the filter manager before swapping filters, did you recheck the clocking and that filter is properly seated? What additives have you put in lately?
Click to expand...

I should have known that about the LP pumping not constantly via ignition... i've only read it about 5 times on here already.

I havent checked the pressure yet... I'll have to get a gauge and set it all up and check that for sure (clearly the most important check that i havent done yet).

When i swapped filters i didnt drain it like i should have... mainly because the crud situation was at a minimal.

Took the filter out today and made sure it was seated properly... turned it until it found its home and put it all back together.... seems to be put together correctly.

I'm running 4+ Premium from DSG as an additive.. havent had a problem with it before or during all winter... but i have only owned the truck since september.
 
Water sits in the bottom of the filter manager after being separated, which is why it should be drained before putting new filter in.

Did the filter seem to be seated correctly to start with? another thing people find is that an extra gasket from the old filter could cause it to sit too high and leak.

I would lay off that additive and just use a plain cetane boost and 2-stroke oil or Non-Detergent SAE30.
 
Possibly previous owner didn't treat fuel and now you have a bunch of dead algea on the tank sock, do lift pump checks, then if you have limited fuel still, could be the in tank sock all snotty
 
buddy said:
Water sits in the bottom of the filter manager after being separated, which is why it should be drained before putting new filter in.

Did the filter seem to be seated correctly to start with? another thing people find is that an extra gasket from the old filter could cause it to sit too high and leak.

I would lay off that additive and just use a plain cetane boost and 2-stroke oil or Non-Detergent SAE30.
Click to expand...

This is my first fuel filter that i've put into it so... stupid question... how do you open the drain on the filter manager?

And i didnt see any part of gasket left behind and the filter seemed to sit right down flush like it should have
 
Turbine Doc said:
Possibly previous owner didn't treat fuel and now you have a bunch of dead algea on the tank sock, do lift pump checks, then if you have limited fuel still, could be the in tank sock all snotty
Click to expand...

It could be that too, maybe my truck doesnt like the UFA fuel that we're running at work in Alberta... To get at that sock do you just pull the box off and peal it out of the top of the tank like the gas jobs and their fuel pumps?
 
That or drop the tank, before that I would take the inlet to the lift pump off and blow back to the tank and see if that clears it. Then you will know if the tank needs to be cleaned. Don't forget to take the fuel cap off first.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top