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Looking at an 07 LBZ

Smitty, I hope it's still there. Good luck and as Saratoga said some pics would be appreciated if you get it or when you do get one.
 
Just remember that we have a whole slew of modifications planned for you already.):h
 
OK, it's sittin' at my house now!

I hope this isn't signs of "things to come" (keep in mind, if something can go wrong, it usually happens to me :mad2:) but, on the way home I crossed over some (kinda ruff) RR tacks just outside of palatka and the check engine light came on shortly after, stopped at the Golden Corral to get some grub about 5 minutes later and I got out and walked behind the truck to get a wiff of the exhaust - yup, smelled a little like raw diesel.

I have a Hypertech Power Programmer that a buddy of mine gave me (came out of a totaled 03 d-max). He restored the factory program before the insurance company picked it up from his tow yard and gave it to me. He called Hypertech to inquire what years this old programmer would work on - they told him even though it was listed as a 2001-2003 model it would work on a 07. I tried to use it to read the code tonight - no luck - gives error 76 and says to call Hypertech.

Guess I'll be going to O'reilly Auto Parts in the AM to read the code.

One minor annoyance I noticed after it got dark on the way home, a couple of the bulbs are out on the steering wheel controls and the right side of the CD player lamps are out. Is this a fairly common thing? My 01 z71 has never had a lamp in the cluster or anywhere on the dash or doors go out.

Weird....
 
Yes, lamps are common to go out. My steering wheel has all but to out.

About the smell... Is it that strong? I would start by changing the fluids and filters, check the oil for diesel. Report back what code you have in the morning and we'll do our best to help you get squared away.
 
8100 Power said:
Yes, lamps are common to go out. My steering wheel has all but to out.

About the smell... Is it that strong? I would start by changing the fluids and filters, check the oil for diesel. Report back what code you have in the morning and we'll do our best to help you get squared away.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear that about the lamps.

It's not real strong but yes, definitely smells a little like raw diesel - almost like a sensor is not working (not like a bad injector)- truck still runs smooth.

Truck was totally serviced almost two months ago - I laid eyes on new fuel, oil, tranny and air filter just to make sure. Fluids all look 'fresh'

I'll post my findings in the morning.

Thanks
 
If the cat has been removed, the exhaust will have a very strong, rich diesel smell. Kind of hard to describe unless you experience it yourself.
 
saratoga said:
If the cat has been removed, the exhaust will have a very strong, rich diesel smell. Kind of hard to describe unless you experience it yourself.
Click to expand...

I'll crawl under the truck and inspect the kitty.

Got the code read - "loose connector/wiring"

They reset the code and so far it's off.

I'll try to post some pix of the truck today.

Thanks
 
If you need help, I'm not far away. I also have the ability to read diagnostics and clear them.

It shouldn't smell like raw diesel but if the cat isn't there, it's naturally gonna smell stronger. My steering wheel control lights still work but half my a/c controls are burnt out. Kind of annoying.

Your Hypertech will also work from an 01-09 so it should be good to go. It's a relatively safe tune but will ass rape 95% of cars on the road with license plates on the level 3 setting when you stab it. It's actually a very smooth, very powerful tune. I'm currently running it.

We've got some mods to do now so let us know when you're ready and we'll get that intake opened up so it can breath a little easier. Dont worry, it wont cost you a dime.

Then the head light mod...

Then the EGR plug...

Then the PCV reroute...

Then rims and tires...

Then a lift kit...

Then a built trans...

Then a 750 h.p. tune...

Oh my god, when does it stop? ):h
 
Thanks. Yeah, I went through every mod possible on my old 6.5 - can't wait to get started on my LBZ.

The cat is in place but the "knock test" results sound like it's been gutted. I'm gonna drive it down the road in a bit and then hop out and shoot the cat with a IR temp gun and see what the temps on the kitty are compared to the exhaust before it.

I called Hypertech and now they say this tuner won't work on a 07.

I'm going back in my shop right now to start checking connections (the code came back). I'm going to start with the obvious but if you guys want to add any to my list feel free to reply.

I've got a six month bumper to bumper warranty but I know what a pain it can be to take a wiring problem to the dealer...usually takes em several days and either they don't fix it or they lie and tell you they did fix it only to have it come back again....
 
Odlaw said:
Thanks. Yeah, I went through every mod possible on my old 6.5 - can't wait to get started on my LBZ.

The cat is in place but the "knock test" results sound like it's been gutted. I'm gonna drive it down the road in a bit and then hop out and shoot the cat with a IR temp gun and see what the temps on the kitty are compared to the exhaust before it.

I called Hypertech and now they say this tuner won't work on a 07.

I'm going back in my shop right now to start checking connections (the code came back). I'm going to start with the obvious but if you guys want to add any to my list feel free to reply.

I've got a six month bumper to bumper warranty but I know what a pain it can be to take a wiring problem to the dealer...usually takes em several days and either they don't fix it or they lie and tell you they did fix it only to have it come back again....
Click to expand...
That a generic code. If it's possible run back and get the truck PXXXX code for us. That will probably help you track it down.

First thing, check all the bale connectors on the top of the motor.
 
OK, Check engine light issue resolved. There are two big electrical connections on the top driver side of engine - kinda stacked on top of each other. When I looked at the top one I could clearly see the plug was sitting at an angle and not fully seated. Released the lock lever and reseated the connection, flipped the lever back down - cranked her up - no check engine light.

Before I start asking a lot of questions like what is the preferred tuner and such, I'll not pester you guys until after I've thoroughly searched the LBZ section of this forum.

Thanks again. Pix tonight - don't have time right now - I've already taken them just gotta pull off the camera and upload.
 
OK, I guess I spoke too soon - it's back on. Code P0650

All the connectors I've checked so far have been wet - not necessarily wet past the seals but wet none the less - dang pressure washers!

Regarding the kitty - I think it's gutted. After a road trip about 20 miles temps 1 foot before the cat are around 250f, on the end of the cat 260, on the side of the cat 170 and a foot behind it around 260. I guess if the cat is double walled that might explain the lower temps and the hollow sound during the knock test.
ideas?

One unrelated question. Are the front bumpers on these trucks really flimsy (out on the ends - where it wraps around the front corners)? I can push down kinda lightly on the plastic cap on top of the bumper out on each end and the bumper pushes down easily 1 inch or so.
 
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit

These things are relay sensitive to voltage issues. I would disconnect the batteries and go back to that connector. I would disconnect it and hit both side with an electrical cleaner and reseat them see what happens.
 
Bill is right. Sometimes weak batteries can cause all kinds of crazy codes to pop up.

I doubt the cat is gutted. Those things are huge and the ceramic is packed in there so tightly that it wouldn't even be worth it to go through the agony. There's no state inspections here so I dont see why someone wouldn't just take it off with a full 4" system.

When you're ready, start a new thread with your specific questions on mods and we'll get you taken care of. Congrats on the purchase by the way.
 
Unit453 said:
Bill is right. Sometimes weak batteries can cause all kinds of crazy codes to pop up.

I doubt the cat is gutted. Those things are huge and the ceramic is packed in there so tightly that it wouldn't even be worth it to go through the agony. There's no state inspections here so I dont see why someone wouldn't just take it off with a full 4" system.

When you're ready, start a new thread with your specific questions on mods and we'll get you taken care of. Congrats on the purchase by the way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the congrats Nick.

I just thought that the cat should be a lot hotter than the exhaust - say a foot before it enters the cat. Not really a big deal as I'll be replacing the entire exhaust...hopefully in the near future.

Regarding the P0650 code, I removed every connection I could find and sprayed both sides of the connectors with contact cleaner. Removed the ECM and whatever the component is mounted to the driver side of the fan shroud and sprayed those connections too...... the MIL is still lit.

From the info I've found looks like I need remove the instrument cluster next and check the connections on the back of it.

Smitty
 
Odlaw said:
Regarding the P0650 code, I removed every connection I could find and sprayed both sides of the connectors with contact cleaner. Removed the ECM and whatever the component is mounted to the driver side of the fan shroud and sprayed those connections too...... the MIL is still lit.

From the info I've found looks like I need remove the instrument cluster next and check the connections on the back of it.
Click to expand...

The part on the fan shroud is called the TCM. While your up there check the mounting pin holding it in. Here is a thread of what happens when the holding pin falls and a quick fix. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=15158

Hopefully the problem is with the cluster connection. Should not be very difficult to get out. Good luck!!!!!!
 
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