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Letting my sister drive - "F" engine w/ "S" stamp

Oh yeah, those little plastic lines, with brass compression fittings arent so good. That ball will crimp the line easy, which is why I went with the copper line.
 
update - replaced the line with a copper line, and replaced the actuator with a DIY manual wastegate. Averaging 70 mpg, my boost stayed around 3ish, and the max I could push out was 4.5. (And I was still blowing a little smoke). I'll add a few more washers, haha. Aiming for 6 max. (why do I do these things during the week??? You guys made it sound soooo easy - yet I probably spent a good hour or 2 getting the actuator off/apart and i had to thread a 1/4, then 12-24, then 10-32)
 

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You could use a tighter spring, is the nut down as far as it will go? Try to get at least 10psi. Even under stock vacuum setup and stock PCM I was pushing at least 12psi.
 
You could use a tighter spring, is the nut down as far as it will go? Try to get at least 10psi. Even under stock vacuum setup and stock PCM I was pushing at least 12psi.

I don't have a boost fooler - and I thought that stock PCM throws codes around 7 or 8? I thought I read somewhere that 12 is the safe max that we want to go with these trucks?

But - I don't know where to get a tighter spring. The dude at autozone looked at me like I didn't know what I wanted (even after showing him a picture of what I wanted), and lowes didn't ahve that great of a selection. This was a 11/32 x 3 (cut to 2.5) x .065 (or something like that)...I'll add washers till I get a chance to add more thread...I started loosing my thinking processes about 1:30ish this morning, when I was finally got 10-32 threads on it.
 
Another way of getting a tighter spring is to jam another one (same as you are using now) into your current one. Thats how i got the compression that i was looking for.
 
update - replaced the line with a copper line, and replaced the actuator with a DIY manual wastegate. Averaging 70 mpg, my boost stayed around 3ish, and the max I could push out was 4.5. (And I was still blowing a little smoke). I'll add a few more washers, haha. Aiming for 6 max. (why do I do these things during the week??? You guys made it sound soooo easy - yet I probably spent a good hour or 2 getting the actuator off/apart and i had to thread a 1/4, then 12-24, then 10-32)

Just leave it alone):h
 
the truck I just bought has a home made turbomaster that I think is cranked down so tight it never opens. Ive hit 12psi and Im sure it would have gone to 15.
 
update - replaced the line with a copper line, and replaced the actuator with a DIY manual wastegate. Averaging 70 mpg, my boost stayed around 3ish, and the max I could push out was 4.5. (And I was still blowing a little smoke). I'll add a few more washers, haha. Aiming for 6 max. (why do I do these things during the week??? You guys made it sound soooo easy - yet I probably spent a good hour or 2 getting the actuator off/apart and i had to thread a 1/4, then 12-24, then 10-32)

I got my springs from Home Depot, I have dual springs, one inside the other.
I have mine set for 10 psi max, on the interstate at 70 MPH it's
around 5 PSI.
The one in your picture doesn't look strong enough, and it's definitely not
cranked down enough
 
I got my springs from Home Depot, I have dual springs, one inside the other.
I have mine set for 10 psi max, on the interstate at 70 MPH it's
around 5 PSI.
The one in your picture doesn't look strong enough, and it's definitely not
cranked down enough

(in my quote I put 70 mpg - I think everyone knows I meant 70 mph, lol)

I went ahead and cut my other spring to 2-1/2" and put them together - 1 inside the other. I've got 6-6.5 max and 4 average. I'll throw in some washers, and see if that makes a difference. There's a home depot near hear - I'll also stop in and see what they've got. Thanks!

As for the boost fooler - Its on my list of things to do. With the high being 29* F today, I need to get my glow plug override and high idle mods done, and figure out why my breaker is popping when I plug the truck in.
 
since i have my manual TM - it'd be safe to remove the vacuum lines, right? And since I don't need my vacuum pump - would it be safe to remove that? Or will it hurt to leave it? ( I thought I read somewhere that it has a tendency to freeze up and shred the belt - is this a common enough occurence that I should remove it?)
 
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