Letting my sister drive - "F" engine w/ "S" stamp

[DieselCash]

Hey your sis is cute. If she redlines everything, I'd like her phone number.

There is always one in every crowd! ):h :thumbsup:

 

[Tookie]

I'll reteach my sister, and teach my g/f how to drive a stick.

This is 2 different people, right?

 

[WarWagon]

This is 2 different people, right?

:nopics: Need GF pics too!

 

[treegump]

:nopics: Need GF pics too!

Alright - to prove my g/f isn't my sister. First picture - is my younger sister on the left, my oldest sister on the right (both enjoy trucks and are single christian women!! - and although I've never been in a fight I sure hope I won't hesitate to break anything (bones/joints/heads) with the tools in the back of my truck...and I do have friends that have friends that aren't afraid to go back to prison)... the next is me on the left and my girl on the right (I would sure hope you could figure that out, but sometimes I wonder about you guys ), and the next is my bro (not legally) who's taught me most about vehicles (besides this place) and woodcutting. The other pic...well, lets just say my younger sister doesn't let embarrassment stop her when she gets hungry. (Oh and this is at the 4 wheel jamboree in Indy - my g/f's first time around big trucks )

 

[Big T]

Just funning with ya. After 17 years of marriage.....well let's just leave it at that. I'm sure lil sis make some guy who enjoys training very happy.

 

[treegump]

Just funning with ya. After 17 years of marriage.....well let's just leave it at that. I'm sure lil sis make some guy who enjoys training very happy.

funny you should say that - my younger sister is planning on graduating with a masters in occupational therapy at IUPUI (got her bachelors at Ball State), and when I asked her about her stomach stretching (her typical thanksgiving ritual) - she said she hadn't but she had ran a collective 10-12 miles in the 3 days previous to thursday. (more than i can run)

 

[btfarm]

Forest, your younger sister wasn't too happy with her big sis at the moment of the pic):h

 

[treegump]

Forest, your younger sister wasn't too happy with her big sis at the moment of the pic):h

naw...it was probably me that she wasn't happy with....or that chevy that lost the burnout round (honestly? I have no idea what truck she prefers)

 

[chevyCowboy]

i was thinking about this thread as i drove home tonight from my gf's house and i shift my truck w/ clutch at the same rpm/wheel speed that i would not using the clutch (gliding, power shifting, floating). I can drive my truck only using the clutch to get going and to stop same as a big rig. i dont do it often (its handy when your trying to do something with your hands and drive with your knee i know it dangerous but sometimes you just got to) i have found where the tranny wants to be shifted and to me that makes the most sence. saying that shifting at one set RPM in every gear is not totaly accurate to me. 1st to 2nd is around 2400 but 2nd to 3rd is almost 3000 and 3rd to OD is about 3400. those maybe off alittle i dont really pay attention its a feel thing. what im getting at and this is how iv been trying to teach my gf you have to shift the tranny where it and the motor mesh the easiest it saves on sencro wear, and you get the most out of the rpm/gear range, plus it make you shifts smother
just my two cents

 

[buddy]

Wow, you only have 4 psi boost, thats nuts, youre missing a lot of the grunt of the truck. You probably have a vacuum leak. Like if you still have those brittle black plastic vacuum lines they crack. You can either try wiring wastegate shut or put vacuum line straight to the actuator from vacuum pump. Or just get a Turbomaster. 12-15psi would be good.

If you dont have a tuned PCM and you get a turbomaster or make one then its best to wire in a boost fooler, so your PCM doesnt code for too much boost.

That and a tuned PCM is the single largest improvement to power if it interests you. And its a quick clean change. FTB and Airdog could compliment a good tune.

 

[625fireman]

Forset you need a manual waste gate controler. It WILL help bring the 6.5 to life. Stock setup is not right with these trucks. GM for some reason thought it was a good idea to drop ALL boost somewhere between 4-6 PSI. If you wire it shut dont run it that way for long. WAY to risky to over boost----then you'll be into headgaskets at least. Try and get one from Heath. Or make your own. Search here for it, there is a thread somewhere if not PM me and get you pics of mine. With all i've done to mine i get about 1 at idle and 4-5 cruising at 2200 RPM, and max set at 12 PSI. PS mine will not smoke if I try. Best place to be in my opinion. Black smoke is just wasting fuel and at almost $3 a gal cant afford to do that much.

 

[treegump]

update - when I was filling up last night, i found that the plastic tubing sliding up to my vacuum actuator was broken off -so i slid that out and reconnected it. I noticed a little difference as I got on the interstate - such as when I was in 5th and punched it the boost rose up to 2 (max) and when I let go, it dropped like a rock to 1ish. (A side note: when I shift from 1st to second, the boost gauge typically drops under 1, closer to or trying to get past 0.) When I got off the interstate and found a nice lit area (this is just outside of Gary, IN where car fires are the norm) I clamped my vacuum line where it passes the PCV vlv (CDR??) and drove for about a mile and my boost didn't move from 1. So, I unclamped and don't show any boost till I'm in 5th and then, again, max is 2. (another side note - I opened my engine to find diesel everywhere...I need to relocate my fuel pressure gauge line to somewhere other than the bleeder T at the front - its leaking out the top)

 

[treegump]

oh - also to note - my exhaust temps have rarely gotten above 400 degrees, and usually sits around 250-300 degrees.

 

[Big T]

Forest, at the minimum, get youself a new vacuum line. I paid like $25 for one from the stealership. In the interim, make a splice using tubing, hose clamps and some sort of sealant (I used 3M 5200 marine sealant). If you're still dumping boost, then replace the wastegate solenoid that the vacuum line plugs into on the driver's side of the engine towards the rear. I can't speak to the manual wastegate managers as I've not done that yet.

 

[treegump]

well - i took a little drive across town and back with a set of locking pliers on the vacuum line right by the wastegate solenoid and I saw very little difference on the boost. The only difference was, I could get up to 2 psi in 4th.

Also - just wondering - is it normal for the boost gauge line to have oil in it? It used to be clear when I replaced it, and the old one had it too. I have a new CDR vlv and when I pulled my intake manifold off - well - you can see what it looked like above.

and to buddy - what about city driving? do you just stay in 4th till you reach the RPM's that are best to shift, or do you go ahead and shift into 5th so that you can maintain lower RPM's for better fuel mileage. Is it a bad thing that if I'm driving in an area (no load, mind you) that I shift straight from 3rd to 5th if the speed limit is 35 or under?
pic1) boost gauge line full of oil, pic2)vac lines going into wastegate solenoid (you can see where I crimped the line ), pic3)my current wastegate setup 4)the bolt I replaced on the intake manifold

 

[NVW]

With locking pliers on the vac line you are preventing the vacuum from pulling the WG shut preventing boost.

 

[buddy]

You want vacuum at the turbo wastegate, or no boost. Try running the line that comes from the vacuum pump straight to the wastegate actuator, with any rubber line for simplicity. If you get a lot of boost then there is a leak or failed boost solenoid. If not vacuum pump or actuator is broke. You can test for vacuum to troubleshoot too. Easy fixes, or get rid of it all, including the vac pump by using manual actuator.

oil in the intake is common, and it gets in boost line.

 

[treegump]

You want vacuum at the turbo wastegate, or no boost. Try running the line that comes from the vacuum pump straight to the wastegate actuator, with any rubber line for simplicity. If you get a lot of boost then there is a leak or failed boost solenoid. If not vacuum pump or actuator is broke. You can test for vacuum to troubleshoot too. Easy fixes, or get rid of it all, including the vac pump by using manual actuator.

oil in the intake is common, and it gets in boost line.

Thank you sir! I printed off (cause I don't have internet/computer at home) how to build a manual boost controller using the stock actuator. (along with 8-9 other cheap DIY updates cause I got no money for this truck) I also don't have the money for a Max E Tork computer, so I'll hopefully discipline myself to not adjusting the boost to anything higher than 6 or 7...10 when/if I do my boost fooler.

I also have my boost gauge line routed weird to my gauge, so I went ahead and bought some copper gauge line and I'm going to put that at the fitting ends. Then I was intending to coat the other end with silicone or gasket maker or something and slide the hose line over that. This way I know the connections aren't causing false/inaccurate readings.

 

[buddy]

I wouldnt worry too much about the gauges compression fittings leaking.

 

[treegump]

I wouldnt worry too much about the gauges compression fittings leaking.

Oh, i'm not worried about them leaking - I'm worried that because I went with a larger and longer line, which happened to be more flimsy, that the compression ball is turning and cutting off circulation. I want to make sure that there is a clear passage through the fittings.