Letting my sister drive - "F" engine w/ "S" stamp

[treegump]

I let my oldest sister drive my truck in knoxville, TN for the first time (and I may add that she had an 89 F150 2wd MT and she worked for the state and drove tractors and MT trucks, and has stuck with cars with MT's, so for immediate family - I trust her and dad when it comes to driving) but anyhow, I let my youngest sister drive (who loves trucks, john deeres, jeeps, and used to drive a MT neon) and I was in the passenger seat, so it wasn't anything too bad, but she redlined in 2, 3, but shifted at ~1400 in 4th, and into 5th. I asked her why she was redlining and she said "I'm doing what I did in my neon" (I now understand why her check engine light was on). I told her to stop - to shift before redline, to stop bucking the truck in 3rd - but to slam it to the floor (don't be afraid of using the pedal), and to blow a little smoke


My check engine light came on near the end of the ~4-5 mile test drive and so I took over and took it for a drive - drove fine. Came back and popped the hood to see oil all over the passenger side of the engine. On closer inspection - the front S bolt hole (I have an "F" engine, with an S stamp with the 2 bolt holes) - the front S bolt was popped out (no biggy - when I bought the truck, there wasn't one), and my boost line had popped out of the intake manifold. I reinstalled both, added a cup of oil, started it up and the light went off.

Fun Times This ain't no sissy truck, and I'll reteach my sister, and teach my g/f how to drive a stick. I ain't skeered.:thumbsup:

 

[Big T]

It's more than just "re-teaching"; she needs to "understand". So many people go through life merely connecting dots without understanding and the inevitable outcome is just what you're describing. To understand is to be able to drive a stick in any car or truck.

 

[WarWagon]

Emissions "Smoke test" require you to floor it and leave it on the governor for a bit. But understanding the lower RPM of a diesel helps.

Sounds like you need to romp it hard and fix the little things. Driving it like grandma and then romping it will break the marginal parts. Like the grandma car I bought. First romp blew the old belts off and shredded the coolant hoses...

 

[bk95td]

You lost me somewhere. What is a "S" stamp and "S BOLT"? To me there is no reason to rev past 2800 rpm. Nothing much happens after 2300 or so except noise and smoke. As much as some people seem to like it ,black smoke for more than a couple seconds is a bad thing. Exhaust temps are skyrocketing.

 

[Turbine Doc]

You lost me somewhere. What is a "S" stamp and "S BOLT"? To me there is no reason to rev past 2800 rpm. Nothing much happens after 2300 or so except noise and smoke. As much as some people seem to like it ,black smoke for more than a couple seconds is a bad thing. Exhaust temps are skyrocketing.

X2 on S stamp/bolt

As far as 2800+ rpm with GM turbo then yes you hit diminished return but going with the ATT you don't stop acelerating, backpressure barrier is virtually non existant

 

[treegump]

From my understanding, some F intake manifolds were cast using the same molds that some S manifolds were cast in. Therefore, the oval is stamped on top of my F top manifold, but an EGR valve was never installed. The 2 bolt holes at the front and back of the oval are there, and the back bolt was installed but the front one was missing when I bought the truck. I put a temp bolt in but it was so loose that it popped out - probably from my sister "bucking" the truck. I've fixed that problem.

As for the romping past 2300 rpms, I typically try and shift around there, but sometimes in a hard accels - I get around 3k. The smoke only comes during hard accelerations too...but dissappears after I stop accelerating. (it'll sometimes come back if I deccelerate by down shifting - which I've stopped doing - unless I'm pulling). Anyhow - when my sister was shifting from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to fourth - she'd barely be pressing the pedal - so it would "buck". Between bucking and pedal to the floor - I'd prefer pedal to the floor because I have an OEM fuel pump and OEM boost controller - so from what I've experienced and understood from reading, after a certain point, the pedal isn't having any more affect.

Attached - upper F intake (upside down - the lower bolt hole is what I'm referring to) and the lower F intake. I guess I just thought the middle holes were from the S cast...or does the F intake also have a total of 6 bolts?

 

[bk95td]

f has 6 bolts also. I learned of diesel's low rpm grunt with the olds 5.7s. You didn't dare rev them.Ticking time bomb. Huge black clouds and actually lost power. A bit of an adjustment from a gasser.
"As far as 2800+ rpm with GM turbo then yes you hit diminished return but going with the ATT you don't stop acelerating, backpressure barrier is virtually non existant"
I think that could mean speeding tickets on a way too regular basis.:nono::mad2:

 

[treegump]

well, as a side note - i really am trying to cut back with the black smoke. I'm seeing a decrease in my fuel mileage....though I do enjoy not having people tailgate me all the time. (apparently big rusty dirty truck = slow vehicle - here in the chicago suburbs )

 

[625fireman]

Your "F" intake looks the same as mine.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Black smoke on acceleration, I suspect your WG isn't fully closing have a close inspection of the vacuum system, solenoids, or vac actuator on side of the turbo, maybe for test wire the WG fully shut to see if the smoke clears up.

 

[Turbine Doc]

F has 6 bolts also. I learned of Diesel's low rpm grunt with the olds 5.7s. You didn't dare rev them.Ticking time bomb. Huge black clouds and actually lost power. A bit of an adjustment from a gasser.

"As far as 2800+ rpm with GM turbo then yes you hit diminished return but going with the ATT you don't stop acelerating, backpressure barrier is virtually non existant"

I think that could mean speeding tickets on a way too regular basis.:nono::mad2:

Yes one has to be very careful with the over 2800 rpm stuff, I've only gone 112 mph in mine since going non IC with ATT, when I was IC'd 121mph was my limit then possibly could have gone faster but did not feel safe, nor did I really have enough open highway to push for more than that. :nono:

 

[treegump]

well, i know that i can move the lever at the bottom of the vac actuator with no problem...up and down with little resistance, and the vacuum tube, i can pull out with no resistance. (Is that supposed to be a tight fit or what's suppose to keep that air tight?)

 

[Odlaw]

all those nice gauges on the A pillar and you still have the stock (vacuum) waste gate control?

How much boost are you producing at WOT - sustained boost, that is.?

 

[Turbine Doc]

well, i know that i can move the lever at the bottom of the vac actuator with no problem...up and down with little resistance, and the vacuum tube, i can pull out with no resistance. (Is that supposed to be a tight fit or what's suppose to keep that air tight?)

With truck running you should not be able to move that, should be 15+" vac at idle to vac actuator on the side of the turbo

 

[treegump]

With truck running you should not be able to move that, should be 15+" vac at idle to vac actuator on the side of the turbo

good to take note of - and i only pulled it out when it wasn't running. I'll check. As for the "nice gauges" - they came with the truck. Only gauge I've added is the harbor freight fuel pressure gauge that's sitting in my cup holder at the moment. To answer your question though - check out: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=211297&postcount=19 (my fuel pressure gauge is hooked up off of the bleeder valve in front of the oil filler) I'm still learning...and haven't quite figured out (nor tried to trace) where my fuel line is between the fuel distributor (Feed the beast - or am I misnaming something - my apologies) and the IP.

and my apologies - thats the fuel pressure. My boost has never reached about 4 and the only time its hit 4 is in 5th gear, on the interstate, to the floor, getting into the 60's/70's mph's. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=184574&postcount=1 (easy/town driving...i think)

 

[WarWagon]

No boost? No wonder your sister was redlining it looking for power!

 

[Big T]

Hey your sis is cute. If she redlines everything, I'd like her phone number.

 

[Michaeljp86]

When I was in the high school auto shop there was a car in there for a new clutch. Some girl that was going to school there brought it in. Her dad bought it for her after she got her license. About 2 weeks later the car comes back in for a new clutch and her dad is flipping out because he spent the money for a new clutch and these stupid kids put it in wrong. So he gets a new clutch put in and about 2 weeks later hes back again with the clutch burned out and now hes really mad. The shop teacher asked his daugher how she drives it and she said she puts it in 4th and then slowly lets off the clutch as shes driving. She said she doesnt like to shift the gears and her dad wouldnt buy her a car with a automatic.

 

[Big T]

OUCH!

The only car I've owned with an automatic is this Suburban with 6.5TD. All others are sticks and my wife has always owned a stick. If I could have found a diesel Suburban with a stick, I would have bought it. They just did not offer the grocery haulers with the manual trans out in CA.

That said, the 4L80E has been good and is still going strong at 160K miles. Doubt I'd be saying that with a Ford Powerstroke.

 

[treegump]

I've always driven an automatic (in my whole ~9 yrs of driving) till I got my jeep (which is only offroading) and then this truck. I sometimes regret it in stop and go traffic...but not enough to get rid of it. I intend on teaching my g/f how to drive it right, cause I'm not planning on ever buying an automatic if I can get away with it!