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Just a 94 k3500 srw thread
- Thread starter bk95td
- Start date
88gmctruck
02GMCtruck
Just saw this thread, looks like it has become a nice project. Sub'd to see more.
If you want more, this is the truck sitting next to this one in my shop. It is very close to done. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?21981-quot-599-quot-project
Or take a look at these:http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/album.php
Or take a look at these:http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/album.php
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
I have to rock the lights on my 93 a couple times to get dash,tag, and tail lights. The cab light doesnt ever seen to work either but that might just be a bulb.
Dash tore apart, Instrement cluster taken out
I tried swapping a different headlight switch in along with the dimmer for the cluster lights. :nonod: No difference. Still no cluster lights:mad2: Had to take the heater control out and radio head loose just to get to all the screws that hold the cluster in. I got the cluster out and checked for power at the connector:agreed: Yep there is power there with the lights turned on. That space on the connector is the same space as the discolored copper connector of the printed circuit :WTF::mad2:. I'll have to get the ohm meter out to check that there is continuity to the bulb sockets and that the bulbs aren't blown. This is turning into a rather PIA. This cluster was repaired at least once. There was stickers saying it was factory authorized reman and a repair tag from a auto electronics place. I have a feeling I might be looking for a different cluster. I haven't junked a 94 diesel so I don't have a spare unless a 91 or 93 will work. I'm doubting it because the 94 has different lights in different places from other years:mad2:
I tried swapping a different headlight switch in along with the dimmer for the cluster lights. :nonod: No difference. Still no cluster lights:mad2: Had to take the heater control out and radio head loose just to get to all the screws that hold the cluster in. I got the cluster out and checked for power at the connector:agreed: Yep there is power there with the lights turned on. That space on the connector is the same space as the discolored copper connector of the printed circuit :WTF::mad2:. I'll have to get the ohm meter out to check that there is continuity to the bulb sockets and that the bulbs aren't blown. This is turning into a rather PIA. This cluster was repaired at least once. There was stickers saying it was factory authorized reman and a repair tag from a auto electronics place. I have a feeling I might be looking for a different cluster. I haven't junked a 94 diesel so I don't have a spare unless a 91 or 93 will work. I'm doubting it because the 94 has different lights in different places from other years:mad2:
Attachments
88gmctruck
02GMCtruck
92-94 swap at least in the gassers, i'm not sure in diesels.
I do know one thing I would do is clean all the connectors up, and you can re-spring the dash connector down with a pick or something to make the contacts a little tighter. Also make sure that something isn't grounding out in the cluster itself.
I do know one thing I would do is clean all the connectors up, and you can re-spring the dash connector down with a pick or something to make the contacts a little tighter. Also make sure that something isn't grounding out in the cluster itself.
The printed circuits check out good. No shorts to ground and no burnt bulbs. I'll be looking the connector in the dash over real good and bending the contacts for better tension. I had already cleaned the discolored contact on the printed circuit before I took the pic. I might wrap a tooth pick with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper to try to get it shiny like the rest.
I'm slightly suspicious of a possible ground problem. The fuel gauge was wound around to the right when it was in the truck.
I'm slightly suspicious of a possible ground problem. The fuel gauge was wound around to the right when it was in the truck.
88gmctruck
02GMCtruck
It is also possible one of the 194 bulbs has shorted out. I recently had one on the project CUCV that caused all the front lighting to short out and not work at all.... literally just a single 194 bulb. It could also be one of the gauges too, how knows.
buddy
Active Member
That ground is down on the DLC I believe, or around there.
Interesting. Maybe I should swap out all the bulbs and holders to eliminate them as the problem. That contact had to get warm to discolor it. It is only a 5 amp fuse on the cluster lights. A short would pop that pretty easy.
I figured the ground was somewhere near the aldl connector. I'll be checking that in the morning. I should get my redundant grounds on from the engine to cab and engine to frame just to know everything is positively grounded .
Back Together and Working
:thumbsup: I cleaned the dark contact with some 600 grit sandpaper. It shined up like the rest. Gave it another shot of electronic cleaner and put it back together. Works just like it should now.
Just the funky shifter left to fix.
:thumbsup: I cleaned the dark contact with some 600 grit sandpaper. It shined up like the rest. Gave it another shot of electronic cleaner and put it back together. Works just like it should now.
Just the funky shifter left to fix.
Crankme69
New Member
Get Errr DONE!
Alright Barry let's see the end product...where's them pics man?
Congrads on getting her done & another 6.5 is revived / rejuvenated from the 6.5 Barry Sanctuary :rof:
Alright Barry let's see the end product...where's them pics man?
Congrads on getting her done & another 6.5 is revived / rejuvenated from the 6.5 Barry Sanctuary :rof:
88gmctruck
02GMCtruck
Awesome, glad you got that sorted out.
If you have a tilt manual column floating around in your parts, I have my auto column in the truck still and it works. I'd be down to trade.....
If you have a tilt manual column floating around in your parts, I have my auto column in the truck still and it works. I'd be down to trade.....
I have at least 3 of the 88-94 columns for autos only. I should be able to come up with a replacement spring. A bit of a pia to take the column apart but easier than just replacing it with another that the keys don't match. I'll get some more pics this afternoon yet of the connector for the cluster and the truck out side of the shop[finally]
I won't be driving this one untill March 1. I went yesterday to transfer title and get license. The license would have expired again on March1. I didn't think it was worth $100 for license for 13 days. This truck hasn't been licensed since 2006.
I won't be driving this one untill March 1. I went yesterday to transfer title and get license. The license would have expired again on March1. I didn't think it was worth $100 for license for 13 days. This truck hasn't been licensed since 2006.
Some Final Pics
Well, It's evicted out of the shop. It didn't start as good as hoped. I haven't run the GMTDscan tech on it yet just the tech1 to see if the timing was close. actual and desired were within 1 degree and tdco was at -.94. When I get scantech loaded in my computer I'll give it a run to really check things out. It does run smooth after a couple minutes of running. I have no idea if the injectors were replaced with the engine so I should pull them and rebuild.
Here is a pic of a connector like the one in the truck that lost contact with the printed circuit on the cluster. The contacts are bowed. I put a small screwdriver under them and put more bow in them to create more tension on the contact. On the one on the truck I rubbed them lightly with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper to remove any oxidation then washed with the electronic cleaner
Here is the rest of the pics and a couple of the Flexsteel seat I picked up at the junkyard for $20 a while back. It is a little faded and a spring is broke in the back latch on the passenger side. When I get it fixed and maybe dyed it's going in this truck. I have a Flexsteel seat in my 92. They are very comfortable
Well, It's evicted out of the shop. It didn't start as good as hoped. I haven't run the GMTDscan tech on it yet just the tech1 to see if the timing was close. actual and desired were within 1 degree and tdco was at -.94. When I get scantech loaded in my computer I'll give it a run to really check things out. It does run smooth after a couple minutes of running. I have no idea if the injectors were replaced with the engine so I should pull them and rebuild.
Here is a pic of a connector like the one in the truck that lost contact with the printed circuit on the cluster. The contacts are bowed. I put a small screwdriver under them and put more bow in them to create more tension on the contact. On the one on the truck I rubbed them lightly with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper to remove any oxidation then washed with the electronic cleaner
Here is the rest of the pics and a couple of the Flexsteel seat I picked up at the junkyard for $20 a while back. It is a little faded and a spring is broke in the back latch on the passenger side. When I get it fixed and maybe dyed it's going in this truck. I have a Flexsteel seat in my 92. They are very comfortable
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
I would like to have your current seats in my 93. The vinyl sucks but the seat is in very good shape.
I have some sort of electrical issue with the tranny so I haven't been driving it . The shop is clogged up with another truck. I have had a chance to work on a set of PYO aluminum wheels for it. These wheels had severe corrosion and clear coat peeling. The worst I've seen:shiiiiiite::shiiiiiite::shiiiiiite::shiiiiiite: The rest of the clearcoat had to go and repolish the wheels to remove most of the pits. I had some crappy Bix stripper that I was determined to use up before I bought any more. It removed most of the clearcoat with the help of some coarse steel wool . The steel wool also helped re-polish and clean the wheels. After I used all of the old not so good stripper I went to walmart and bought stripper made to remove polyurethane and epoxy. $8/quart. That cleaned the rest of any clear coat off. The back sides of the wheels were very corroded so I took a 4 1/2" grinder with a wire wheel on to remove and somewhat polish the backs. I had to sand some with 120 grit paper to take the rest of the corrosion and scratches off from the wire wheel. All of this prep so far takes a lot of time and elbow grease. Dollar and time wise you would be better off just buying a set that is in good shape for $250-300.:agreed: I paid $75 for these. Some pics so it doesn't get boring.
At this point ,the wheels are looking much better than they did to start out with. All the polishing on them has turned them more gray and not as bright as they normally are. I had a spray bottle of some eagle ! mag wheel cleaner for unfinished aluminum wheels. I sprayed them down and then rinsed them off again[I had thoroughly washed and rinsed them after every application of stripper] It brightened them up but left them a little cloudy looking. A light polish with fine steel wool took that off.
Since i'm going through all this work with these I want to put some color highlighting on them before clear coating them again. The only paint I had that was any where close to the truck color was in a spray can of touch-up paint. I attempted to mask off all that I didn't want paint on and gave up on that idea about half way through the first wheel.So i sprayed some of the paint in the cap for the can and tried brushing it on. :nonod: Strike 2. The spray can paint is way too thin to even try to brush on.
Off to the parts store to try to get some color matching paint. Most parts stores don't mix paint any more. The parts store I went to was able to get me a pint from their supplier the next day:thumbsup: I ordered acrylic enamal because it.s too hard to mix the 2 part paints and use them up before they turn hard as a rock. A pint of the Hawaiian Orchid paint cost $35
I got 2 coats on the wheels where I wanted highlights and then went after the center caps and lug nut covers. I'm letting the paint cure on the wheels before I spray the clear on. I did a test on the back side of one of the wheels to see if the clear dulled the brightness of the aluminum. Not at all. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
l
Since i'm going through all this work with these I want to put some color highlighting on them before clear coating them again. The only paint I had that was any where close to the truck color was in a spray can of touch-up paint. I attempted to mask off all that I didn't want paint on and gave up on that idea about half way through the first wheel.So i sprayed some of the paint in the cap for the can and tried brushing it on. :nonod: Strike 2. The spray can paint is way too thin to even try to brush on.
Off to the parts store to try to get some color matching paint. Most parts stores don't mix paint any more. The parts store I went to was able to get me a pint from their supplier the next day:thumbsup: I ordered acrylic enamal because it.s too hard to mix the 2 part paints and use them up before they turn hard as a rock. A pint of the Hawaiian Orchid paint cost $35
I got 2 coats on the wheels where I wanted highlights and then went after the center caps and lug nut covers. I'm letting the paint cure on the wheels before I spray the clear on. I did a test on the back side of one of the wheels to see if the clear dulled the brightness of the aluminum. Not at all. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
l
3500GMC
What T F, over
The 'mag' wheel cleaner is some wicked stuff. Hydrofluoric acid I think. It'll etch bare aluminum. (you know this)
You've got some patients sir!
You've got some patients sir!
It didn't seem to etch ,so much as just brighten it up. It did kind of foam some like a acid does. It shure did what I wanted.
I severely injured my back 2 months ago. I can only stand to work on my trucks for 2 hours at the most. This was something I could do that didn't about kill me. So far ,i've done all this in my basement. Neither of the 2 strippers ,the cleaner or the paint has stunk up the house. Gonna have to open a window when I spray the clear.