jrsavoie
Recruit
Where do you order your timing chain and gears from? How much?
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Just a 94 k3500 srw thread
- Thread starter bk95td
- Start date
Ed HD
Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
Looking great!! I live down by Fairfax and go to school up at St. John's, so I pretty much drive right by Annandale. Would definitely like to check out the collection of 6.5's you got.
Shoot me a pm when you are headed this way.
The timing set is coming from rockauto. It is a Cloyes #3074. It is for the 6.2s and mechanical 6.5s. I couldn't find a cloyes listing for the electronic 6.5s. I have a new crank sprocket to use with it. The cloyes chain is very tight when installed. Others are not. Melling was very loose. I think the price was around $46 for the timing set. $12 less than summit racing
turbonator
Member
Thought I'd start a thread on the 94 K3500 regular cab srw truck I'm working on.
I bought the truck from a construction company along with 2 other 6.5 trucks this fall. The truck has 150,000 miles on the body. Some rust but not terrible. It had not been used in 5 years since the forman that drove it retired. It had a Goodwrench engine put in it aprox 60,000 miles ago. :thumbsup: It ran and drove when I bought it. It has pretty new Toyo tires on it and new looking front brakes including the rotors.
The first thing I did after I got it home and off the trailer was to run the VIN in the compnine decoder[sorry no link]. I found out it came with: 4.10 gears, possi rear end, trailer tow package, snow plow prep package and power doors. It has the big ass borg-warner transfer case:thumbsup: I don't care for the visor on it but won't remove it for now because it would leave 6 big[3/16] holes in the roof:mad2:
I started work on it by cleaning it up. Many years of dirt built up. I buffed and waxed the paint to make it shine where the clear coat isn't damaged. The hood was sprung from a dent in the front center. I replaced it with a better hood that isn't the exact same color[close]
Next was to check up on the rear brakes. This truck has the large ,13 x 3 1/2 rear drums[3/4 tons have 13 x 2 1/2]. The drums on this are over the hub and wheel studs:thumbsup::thumbsup:. The shoes were worn to nothing. The drums were pretty well trashed. Off to NAPA for new drums, shoes,springs,adjusters, wheel cylinders and grease seals. About $500 into the rear brakes
when you are ready to pull the visor, shoot me a PM and we can make a deal..... nice truck by the way, should be able to get a good resale on it if you go that route with all the new parts....
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I need to get a new serp. belt idler pulley, when its real cold out mine whirrs.
Ive gotten pulled over once, for not having a front license plate on my '89 mustang. None the less my speedo doesnt work, but i was somehow going below the speed limit.. score! But i still got a ticked for no front plate, my car doesnt have a front plate bracket as it came from way south..
Ive gotten pulled over once, for not having a front license plate on my '89 mustang. None the less my speedo doesnt work, but i was somehow going below the speed limit.. score! But i still got a ticked for no front plate, my car doesnt have a front plate bracket as it came from way south..
If the tensioner pulley bearing is getting loose ,the rest has seen better days. The american made dayco tensioner is only around $35. Much cheaper than having to replace all the belt driven accessories.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Nice K3500 SRW Barry. I'd like to find another one myself...
Like I need another mouth to feed.
Like another hole in the head...
One day I might catch up to you.
Like I need another mouth to feed.
Like another hole in the head...
One day I might catch up to you.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Everything I have is for sale for the right price.
No such thing as sentimental value here either.
buddy
Active Member
We are so accustomed to getting them cheap from people that dont know how to maintain them, but if one of us has a well running one its probably going for blue book value.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
x2 If the truck is from a trusted member with some upgraded parts for reliability then I would not mind paying 6-7K for it, assuming i had the money.
Timing chain
The new cloyes timing chain and sprockets arrived today. Just to clairify, I ordered the wrong set[3074] for this engine. The only difference is the crank sprocket.The crank sprocket for the electronic IP engines has a reluctor wheel on it to trigger the crankshaft position sensor. I had a extra new crank sprocket but used the original one because the chain was tight.
As a note: When I removed the gear on the injection pump I had the timing marks lined up on the 2 gears. When I replaced the chain and sprockets I had to turn the crankshaft 1 turn[cam turned 1/2 turn]. Once the new chain and sprockets were on I turned the crankshaft 1 turn to have the marks for the injection pump line up again.:thumbsup:
Timing cover and water pump tomorrow
The new cloyes timing chain and sprockets arrived today. Just to clairify, I ordered the wrong set[3074] for this engine. The only difference is the crank sprocket.The crank sprocket for the electronic IP engines has a reluctor wheel on it to trigger the crankshaft position sensor. I had a extra new crank sprocket but used the original one because the chain was tight.
As a note: When I removed the gear on the injection pump I had the timing marks lined up on the 2 gears. When I replaced the chain and sprockets I had to turn the crankshaft 1 turn[cam turned 1/2 turn]. Once the new chain and sprockets were on I turned the crankshaft 1 turn to have the marks for the injection pump line up again.:thumbsup:
Timing cover and water pump tomorrow
Attachments
94K30
Diesel nut
Nice looking 94SRW... Mine had that webbing in it, too when I got it. it surprised me, but I ground it out when I found it.
HO Water pump on
Before I could put the new water pump on I had to get the gear on the IP. I used locktite on all the gear bolts and on the bolt that holds the sprocket and gear on the camshaft. Really don't want those bolts working loose. All the gaskets are sealed with "ultra black" RTV. I installed a new front crankshaft oil seal also. All the gaskets and the crank oil seal, needed and more for this came in one gasket set from Fel-Pro. I will list all part numbers at the end of this repair:thumbsup:
The water pump and mounting plate went on without a hitch. I didn't put the fan studs yet. I'm debating weather to restrict the by-pass between the water pump and coolant crossover. Bill heath restricts his that he sells. It forces more coolant through the radiator once the thermostat is open. I started another thread about just that.
A couple more pics.
Before I could put the new water pump on I had to get the gear on the IP. I used locktite on all the gear bolts and on the bolt that holds the sprocket and gear on the camshaft. Really don't want those bolts working loose. All the gaskets are sealed with "ultra black" RTV. I installed a new front crankshaft oil seal also. All the gaskets and the crank oil seal, needed and more for this came in one gasket set from Fel-Pro. I will list all part numbers at the end of this repair:thumbsup:
The water pump and mounting plate went on without a hitch. I didn't put the fan studs yet. I'm debating weather to restrict the by-pass between the water pump and coolant crossover. Bill heath restricts his that he sells. It forces more coolant through the radiator once the thermostat is open. I started another thread about just that.
A couple more pics.
Attachments
3500GMC
What T F, over
The restriced barb is a good I-deer me thinks.
The jest from the other thread ,which has a link to the original thread I read it in, Is that the duel thermostat systems[96+] will benefit from a restricted by-pass. The single stat systems have the low disc on the thermostat to restrict the by-pass
If you have the duel stats ,my restrictor is very easy to make if you have a 1/2" npt tap. The ID of the hose nipple is perfect size for the tap. No drilling:thumbsup: The pipe plug I made the restricter out of is a 1/2" pipe plug 3/8" square drive. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the pipe plug . The square drive still works to tighten it into the nipple.
If you have the duel stats ,my restrictor is very easy to make if you have a 1/2" npt tap. The ID of the hose nipple is perfect size for the tap. No drilling:thumbsup: The pipe plug I made the restricter out of is a 1/2" pipe plug 3/8" square drive. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the pipe plug . The square drive still works to tighten it into the nipple.
Back at it
Coolant cross over back on with new 1" heater hose to water pump. I replace the quick connect with a napa restricted hose nipple the same as the 88-91 6.2s used.
New return fuel lines from IP to return manifold. New hose from return manifold to valley return line.
Harmonic balancer tightened and crank pulley on. Power steering/alt/tensioner bracket on. PS on.
Timing pointer on. This engine was missing it.:WTF:
I always forget this one untill I try putting it on. A/C-vac pump bracket clearance mod. The vac pump/ac bracket needs to be ground out to fit the larger HO water pump passages[yellow area]
Coolant cross over back on with new 1" heater hose to water pump. I replace the quick connect with a napa restricted hose nipple the same as the 88-91 6.2s used.
New return fuel lines from IP to return manifold. New hose from return manifold to valley return line.
Harmonic balancer tightened and crank pulley on. Power steering/alt/tensioner bracket on. PS on.
Timing pointer on. This engine was missing it.:WTF:
I always forget this one untill I try putting it on. A/C-vac pump bracket clearance mod. The vac pump/ac bracket needs to be ground out to fit the larger HO water pump passages[yellow area]
Attachments
Crankme69
New Member
Looking good Barry...