It would be looking better if everything was painted, not just the vac pump and intake
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Just a 94 k3500 srw thread
- Thread starter bk95td
- Start date
It would be looking better if everything was painted, not just the vac pump and intake
chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
give it a coat of Alpin then. i know its not your style with it all put together but it would be better than rusty!!!!
colbythekid
Member
Crankme69
New Member
It would be looking better if everything was painted, not just the vac pump and intake
I agree, but I can't help but remember my Mom's saying "1/2 ass is better then no ass"! Rest in peace Mom I miss you dearly...
Cleaned up and half-assed painted
Had a short day today. I did get most of the visable part of the engine washed down with laquer thinner and some black paint on it. I looked around and found a painted water pump pulley and a painted a/c -vac pump cast bracket.
I suppose I could have brightened up the engine bay with this:
But this didn't start out as a engine replacement. It was just a vac pump replacement and a couple performance mods.:rolleyes5:
Had a short day today. I did get most of the visable part of the engine washed down with laquer thinner and some black paint on it. I looked around and found a painted water pump pulley and a painted a/c -vac pump cast bracket.
I suppose I could have brightened up the engine bay with this:
But this didn't start out as a engine replacement. It was just a vac pump replacement and a couple performance mods.:rolleyes5:
Attachments
buddy
Active Member
Wow, I wished I lived nearby so I could drink my beer in your shed and look at all the cool 6.5 stuff. Then maybe I would get off my duff and do work on my own too.
Crankme69
New Member
I agree, we could have a regular 6.5 meeting like weekly!
He's got a very nice place.
He's got a very nice place.
jrsavoie
Recruit
On my next trip to Minny I'll have to make it a point to make time to stop by.
I haven't been that way in a while now.
I haven't been that way in a while now.
More progress
I did a notable mod to the radiator core support. I cut a hole for a actual drain hose:WTF:. Why GM didn't do this from the factory I'll never know
The radiator drain valve has a place to attach a 3/8" hose so I attached a piece about 10"long so it would go to the bottom of the frame. I fished the hose in around the bumper bracket that is below the 3/4 " hole I cut. Next time the radiator needs to be drained 2 gallons of anti-freeze won't run allover the floor as it did this time
I had brought the radiator in the house and cleaned about 5lbs of sand and bugs out of it with scrubbing bubbles bathroom cleaner:thumbsup: Not only squeeky clean but smells good also:rolleyes5:
Lower radiator hose connected along with the tranny lines and hoses from the plastic jug on the firewall. The lower fan shroud ,fan and upper fan shroud was next. Passenger side battery back in.
Another mod I have done to this truck is eliminate the ops from the lift pump operation. The lift pump now runs as long as the key is on:thumbsup::thumbsup: I think it makes for better starting and less chance of the lift pump not working. I'll write a seperate thread on how to do this on a 94.
More pics
I did a notable mod to the radiator core support. I cut a hole for a actual drain hose
:WTF:. Why GM didn't do this from the factory I'll never knowThe radiator drain valve has a place to attach a 3/8" hose so I attached a piece about 10"long so it would go to the bottom of the frame. I fished the hose in around the bumper bracket that is below the 3/4 " hole I cut. Next time the radiator needs to be drained 2 gallons of anti-freeze won't run allover the floor as it did this time
I had brought the radiator in the house and cleaned about 5lbs of sand and bugs out of it with scrubbing bubbles bathroom cleaner:thumbsup: Not only squeeky clean but smells good also:rolleyes5:
Lower radiator hose connected along with the tranny lines and hoses from the plastic jug on the firewall. The lower fan shroud ,fan and upper fan shroud was next. Passenger side battery back in.
Another mod I have done to this truck is eliminate the ops from the lift pump operation. The lift pump now runs as long as the key is on:thumbsup::thumbsup: I think it makes for better starting and less chance of the lift pump not working. I'll write a seperate thread on how to do this on a 94.
More pics
94K30
Diesel nut
I haven't had any trouble with the lift pump or OPS since I added a relay to the system... (knock on wood)
What I did simplified it and runs the lift pump as long as the key is on. Full fuel pressure starts. I tapped into the fuel heater wire to trigger the factory fuel pump relay. Only took a couple butte splices and a foot of wire. Took much longer to read the schematics to find what to connect to to eliminate the ops out of the whole thing. The other trigger wire was only hot in start.
Slowly creeping along
Things have just about come to a stop since I severely reinjured:mad2::mad2: my back at work. I can only handle a hour or so and then hurt for 8 after.
I did get the cooling system filled back up through the thermostat hole. I fill it from there to make shure it doesn't air lock. I learned that lesson a few years back on a 455 olds I put in my 81 c10 to replace the 5.7 diesel that was in there. It got so hot before the thermostat opened that it burnt the paint off the heads and burned a couple valves:mad2:. They will burp 3 or 4 times before most of the air is gone.
I put the thermostat back in and put the upper hose back on. Then topped off the plastic jug firewall.
Next up was getting the FSD mounted to a heat sink and a bracket made to mount it to the bumper. I had already ran the extension cable out to the bumper before putting the intake back on. I sealed around the FSD with Permatex2 gasket maker. It's a brown really sticky stuff that no matter how hard i try to keep my fingers out of ,i can't.:rolleyes5: It doesn't just wipe off like rtv either.:nonod: Have to use solvent to clean your hands.
Next up was the filler between the bumper and grille then the grille. I tested all the light bulbs before putting the signal/parking housings back in.:thumbsup: Both side markers were burnt out.
Since I put a different hood on I had to mount the underhood light to the replacement hood. The light on the replacement hood had rusted off and the heads of the screws were almost rusted off too:WTF: I got a end nippers to grip the screw heads enough to get them out. A couple new screws with anti-sieze on them and done.
All that should be left is bleeding the fuel system ad loosening the e-brake cabe to adjust the rear brake shoes. My back was more than done for the day:mad2::mad2:. Maybe finish up tomorrow.
Things have just about come to a stop since I severely reinjured:mad2::mad2: my back at work. I can only handle a hour or so and then hurt for 8 after.
I did get the cooling system filled back up through the thermostat hole. I fill it from there to make shure it doesn't air lock. I learned that lesson a few years back on a 455 olds I put in my 81 c10 to replace the 5.7 diesel that was in there. It got so hot before the thermostat opened that it burnt the paint off the heads and burned a couple valves:mad2:. They will burp 3 or 4 times before most of the air is gone.
I put the thermostat back in and put the upper hose back on. Then topped off the plastic jug firewall.
Next up was getting the FSD mounted to a heat sink and a bracket made to mount it to the bumper. I had already ran the extension cable out to the bumper before putting the intake back on. I sealed around the FSD with Permatex2 gasket maker. It's a brown really sticky stuff that no matter how hard i try to keep my fingers out of ,i can't.:rolleyes5: It doesn't just wipe off like rtv either.:nonod: Have to use solvent to clean your hands.
Next up was the filler between the bumper and grille then the grille. I tested all the light bulbs before putting the signal/parking housings back in.:thumbsup: Both side markers were burnt out.
Since I put a different hood on I had to mount the underhood light to the replacement hood. The light on the replacement hood had rusted off and the heads of the screws were almost rusted off too:WTF: I got a end nippers to grip the screw heads enough to get them out. A couple new screws with anti-sieze on them and done.
All that should be left is bleeding the fuel system ad loosening the e-brake cabe to adjust the rear brake shoes. My back was more than done for the day:mad2::mad2:. Maybe finish up tomorrow.
Attachments
Crankme69
New Member
It's almost soup Barry!
Great idea with the fuel heater.
Being as though I removed the FOS plunger...in the Tahoe, been wondering if that power maybe useful as a source to the factory LP relay?
I have no intentions of re-installing that FOS plunger again...
Great idea with the fuel heater.
Being as though I removed the FOS plunger...in the Tahoe, been wondering if that power maybe useful as a source to the factory LP relay?
I have no intentions of re-installing that FOS plunger again...
It takes only milleamps to trigger the relay. I haven't looked yet at the 95 schematics to see what wire to cut for the relay trigger. Lots of differences between 94 and 95. I'll have to look since i'm a gimp for a while. I plan to do it to the other 94 and the 3 -95s. I've wasted way too much money on the pos ops.
handcannon
Well-Known Member
Oh do I feel for you Barry!!!! Back pain is hard to describe to someone who has never felt it. My prayers will be going with you for relief from the pain and a quick recovery.
Don
Don
Thanks Don. I originally injured it 11 years ago. 4 bulged discs and degeneration throughout. It has been pretty good untill 2 weeks ago. I'm starting to go stir crazy. My shop misses me. I usually practicly live out there. It could be much worse.
The good part is I have a working computer and I got my 2000 pictures organized. I had a huge mess after both computers and my external hard drive crashed. Just need to get the old toshiba laptop working again.
It's Alive, well kind of
I got the parking brake cable loosened up and the rear brakes adjusted like they should be.
I had to charge the batteries up before starting. It started on the second attempt :thumbsup: Now some of the bad. It ran quite rough. :WTF:. When I was finishing the final things before starting I was wondering if I had tightened up the 4 high pressure lines I took loose to get enough play to remove the PMD:???:. I had my answer. There was a puddle of fuel under the truck:mad2::mad2: I guess I can't blame anyone else for this one:rolleyes5::nonod:
I took the intake back off and tightened the 4 lines back up. All back together in a hour or so. The second start went much better:thumbsup::thumbsup:. It runs great ,NOW. I took it out for a test spin and it seems to have real good power.
Now the bad again The brake warning light came on and none of the dash lights work.
One of the new NAPA wheel cylinders blew out. The brake shoes got a bath in brake fluid. So much for NAPA having quality brake parts. They had no choice in the wheel cylinders as they do with most other parts. I guess it could be worse. At least it did it now instead of when I had 10,000 lbs hooked on behind it. I've never had a new wheel cylinder blow out in the almost 40 years that I've been doing my own brakes. I don't skimp on brakes. It's just not a good place to pinch pennies. The quality of replacement parts now days is dangerous. I just hope the replacement cylinder is better than this was.
I'm thinking the headlight switch may be bad that none of the dash lights work. I'll know more after a few minutes with the test light.
This truck also has a unusual problem with the shifter on the steering column. The spring that snaps the shifter forward seems to be broken. Looks like i'll be taking the column apart.
I got the parking brake cable loosened up and the rear brakes adjusted like they should be.
I had to charge the batteries up before starting. It started on the second attempt :thumbsup: Now some of the bad. It ran quite rough. :WTF:. When I was finishing the final things before starting I was wondering if I had tightened up the 4 high pressure lines I took loose to get enough play to remove the PMD:???:. I had my answer. There was a puddle of fuel under the truck:mad2::mad2: I guess I can't blame anyone else for this one:rolleyes5::nonod:
I took the intake back off and tightened the 4 lines back up. All back together in a hour or so. The second start went much better:thumbsup::thumbsup:. It runs great ,NOW. I took it out for a test spin and it seems to have real good power
.Now the bad again
The brake warning light came on and none of the dash lights work.One of the new NAPA wheel cylinders blew out. The brake shoes got a bath in brake fluid. So much for NAPA having quality brake parts. They had no choice in the wheel cylinders as they do with most other parts. I guess it could be worse. At least it did it now instead of when I had 10,000 lbs hooked on behind it. I've never had a new wheel cylinder blow out in the almost 40 years that I've been doing my own brakes. I don't skimp on brakes. It's just not a good place to pinch pennies. The quality of replacement parts now days is dangerous. I just hope the replacement cylinder is better than this was.
I'm thinking the headlight switch may be bad that none of the dash lights work. I'll know more after a few minutes with the test light.
This truck also has a unusual problem with the shifter on the steering column. The spring that snaps the shifter forward seems to be broken. Looks like i'll be taking the column apart.
buddy
Active Member
My 94 had a bad headlight switch that stopped the brake lights and the tail lights from coming on. A new switch in there and all was well. The stock ones were known to suck and get hot, hot to the touch, as well as cheap replacements. I got the new more expensive one, maybe Delco, apparantly designed correctly for the load and it never gets hot.
Did the brake light come on solid or flashing at you for that kind of problem? Did the master cylinder empty out or does these have a valve to stop pressure to leaking lines?
Did the brake light come on solid or flashing at you for that kind of problem? Did the master cylinder empty out or does these have a valve to stop pressure to leaking lines?
I guess I have to eat a little crow here.:rolleyes5::rof: Last night when I pulled the driver's side drum off there was brake fluid or some kind of oil on the drum and shoes. I could see that it was wet under the wheel cylinder. When I took the test spin and the brake light came on and the pedal went way down I ASSUMED:???: the wheel cylinder blew completely out. This morning when I pulled the drum off again there was no fluid on the drum or dripping off the wheel cylinder.
When I had originally bled the wheel cylinders I used a mighty vac to suck the air and old fluid out. This mighty vac has always worked great for bleeding brakes including abs systems. Well I guess it didn't work so well on this for some reason.:WTF: I loosened the bleeders one at a time[a real bitch with the 3 1/2 " brakes] and pumped the pedal. All is well. There was some more air in the system.
I hope the dash light don't give me this much grief. I am going to check all the fuses first:thumbsup: The interior lights also don't work with the doors ,only the dimmer. Trailer lights do raise hell with the headlight switches in these. I have fried a couple.
When I had originally bled the wheel cylinders I used a mighty vac to suck the air and old fluid out. This mighty vac has always worked great for bleeding brakes including abs systems. Well I guess it didn't work so well on this for some reason.:WTF: I loosened the bleeders one at a time[a real bitch with the 3 1/2 " brakes] and pumped the pedal. All is well. There was some more air in the system.
I hope the dash light don't give me this much grief. I am going to check all the fuses first:thumbsup: The interior lights also don't work with the doors ,only the dimmer. Trailer lights do raise hell with the headlight switches in these. I have fried a couple.