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It started! With issues and video

2 micron is a restriction right, then ontop of that the fuel must make another 20' to reach IP. Then if he has another filter close to the engine....blah blah. I did say "could" be
 
Mikey, you really need a $30 fuel pressure / vacuum gauge to see what it is doing. Put it in near the ip after all filters. Get pressure with engine off, idling, and under full load.

Run the pump, engine off, for 30 seconds and measure amount of fuel, then let it settle to verify no water or other contaminants.
 
Confirmed that it is a 2 micron filter. No other filters after that.

OK, so looking in the box my injectors came in and I found these:

CameraZOOM-20140209202251720.jpg



They look like they will fit perfectly between the injector and the injector line. Is this correct? Could this be causing my issues?
 
Weird looking lift pump? Looks like a pipe bomb.

I can't see how having his filter there would make any difference as long as the 2 micron is AFTER the pump then he's ok.

I will get some better pics tomorrow. I believe it is a Facet or something like that. It came on a 6.2L K5 I bought for cheap that ended up with a cracked block the day after purchase due to no antifreeze.
 
I don't reconize the orings. They don't go between injector and hard line though. Are they rubber? looks to be a square shoulder? I think they must go on some other application.
The two micron filter still is at the top of my list. Have you tried to do anything in that regard? You can use a gas can and run a hose to IP to temp bypass your fuel system.
 
Looks like valve stem orings. You shouldn't here one cyl clatter above the rest. If you are using actual 6.2 long body injectors,they won't work very well. Especially combined with diamond precups ,which are very unforgiving to wrong timing and or coarse spray patterns .
 
Those are long body. You would be better off with turbo or marine short body injectors.
 
Retarded the time 1/16", turned the idle up a hair, and put a clear line on the return.

It sounds and runs much better with no bubble present. It still has that tick. I guess that is where I will focus my attention for now. I also have a nice oil leak coming from the rear of the engine and one of my tranny cooler hardlines has a crack in it.

I took another video. It was a cold start. I paused recording at the 1:30 and when I started again it dropped out of high idle. Here is video.

[video=youtube;HcPImOCx2E4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=HcPImOCx2E4[/video]
 
Take about a 4' section of garden hose and use it like a stethoscope to pinpoint the noise. Sure sounds like a lifter/valvetrain noise to me.
 
One injector is randomly sticking. Loosen injector lines one at a time to find it,then take that injector apart. You will probably need a visegrips to pull the pintle out,polish it up real nice and reassemble.
 
One injector is randomly sticking. Loosen injector lines one at a time to find it,then take that injector apart. You will probably need a visegrips to pull the pintle out,polish it up real nice and reassemble.

My buddy said the same exact thing about sticky injector, he is a log truck owner/operator. He has not heard it in person, but I sent him a quick video text. Wish he did not work 100 hour weeks or I would have him come help me.
 
It hard to guess what the problem is: injector or lifter? Like said crack one line at a time and see if it go's away.

Has the stalling problem gone away?
 
One injector is randomly sticking. Loosen injector lines one at a time to find it,then take that injector apart. You will probably need a visegrips to pull the pintle out,polish it up real nice and reassemble.

It hard to guess what the problem is: injector or lifter? Like said crack one line at a time and see if it go's away.

Has the stalling problem gone away?

What will I be looking/listening for when I crack the injector lines? Ticking to go away?

The stalling has stopped, but it did stumble a little after revs once it was warmed up (high idle kicked off). Little more idle speed? I did not run it much, 5 minutes or so.

It has an oil leak coming from the rear of the engine somewhere. I will be finding that first tomorrow, then I will check injectors.
 
I wonder why it would have stoped stalling unless it was just air in the line?

Ticking sound will go away if its an injector when you crack the nut loose. Rev it up alittle as the tap was much louder above idle.
 
I wonder why it would have stoped stalling unless it was just air in the line?

Ticking sound will go away if its an injector when you crack the nut loose. Rev it up alittle as the tap was much louder above idle.

Could the stalling have been solved when I increased idle speed?
 
Did some poking around today and took the flywheel inspection cover off. Very hard to see where the oil leak is coming from. I confirmed it is not the oil supply for the turbo or the oil cooler lines. I could only see only gallery plug clearly, and that was not leaking. It looks like it is coming from above the crank. It drips down on the drivers side between the pan and the oil filter.

I also found a fuel leak, where my hose necks down to go into IP. Will get that taken care of today. I did start her again this morning and saw air bubbles in the clear line at start-up. Could this be from fuel leak?
 
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