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I'm back with a keeper. .

I agree with the amsoil or the mobil 1, and the weight of the oil. And I apologize for the bad call on the first waterpump pic, the flash made all the difference. Plan on the better duramax fan and a new fan clutch in the future. Fan clutches should be replaced every 5 years. @Burning oil - good catch, thanks for the correction. Last thing I want to do is mislead somebody.

Yes you can switch to synthetic even if it has never ran it. The concearns of going coventional to synthetic and back are mostly urban legends. The only issue we ever really saw when i was working for unical was some types of seals would seep oil.

Valve covers might depending on what they used. Your rear main wont. The front might, and the oil cooler hoses might. But the hoses you are changing anyways. The hardest part of replacing front seal is removing and installing the harmonic balancer- which should be replaced every 100,000 miles if its an AC Delco. 1/2 that if doorman. Or if you can pony the extra cash, a fluid damper will outlast multiple engines.

If you still have the phone number to the old owner, you might pile up parts changed last questions and give a call. Most folks won't mind sharing the info after it's gone, and now that the sale is made they won't "stretch the truth" on something.
 
On the "not too hot", alot of people have different theories. I have hundreds of 6.5 trucks worth of experience in fleets. Here is my temp gauge:
Up to 210 is fine
Up to 220 worry
At 230 panic like a moron.

Oh yeah, and see how instead of selling you the fan, Leroy went ahead and told you buy it elswhere- another reason he is liked and recommended. We know he needs to make a profit, but he doesnt try to rip people off to make every last buck.
 
Okay I just got off the phone with the PO. Very nice guy. So in 2014 the PO replaced the oil cooler lines with OEM lines. He also used Rotella HD 15W-40 oil. He said he didn't replace the water pump or air box. He said the PO he got it from must have done that work. Should I still replace the oil cooler lines considering they were just changed about 2 years ago?
 
Yeah thanks Leroy. When you are honest like you were with me... It goes a long way and as a result loyal customer like Will and now... Me too a loyal customer who will recommend you to anyone I know with a 6.5. And look. I don't like sticker on my truck but. Found a good place for it. Also notice The huge 10" tip... lol I wasn't crazy about it when buying it but... It's growing on me.

image.jpeg
 
My opinion may seem bias, but I get a phone call at least every month from a customer that just destroyed the engine because of a hose failure. If they were replaced with Dorman then YES! for sure replace them ASAP. We all know it is just a paper clip holding the hose to the block, if your comfortable with that then run em.
Oil cooler hoses are the #1 thing that should be addressed on these trucks.
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Yeah thanks Leroy. When you are honest like you were with me... It goes a long way and as a result loyal customer like Will and now... Me too a loyal customer who will recommend you to anyone I know with a 6.5. And look. I don't like sticker on my truck but. Found a good place for it. Also notice The huge 10" tip... lol I wasn't crazy about it when buying it but... It's growing on me.

View attachment 48412
Click to expand...
Thank you. I like it (sticker)
 
6.5TD.Club said:
I don't know what kind of oil was used in her before and if she hasn't been running Synthetic oil for most of her life can I start using it now at 197k?

What's the benefit of installing a FS2500 or Amsoil bypass filter? What purpose does it serve? Also will me a novice DIY mechanic be able to do this by myself? I'm pretty sure I can do it but I would need to know how to do it and make sure I have the proper tools.

Turbo muffler on front of the engine! I didn't even know there was one! What do you remove and put a block off plate? Any pics for me to see so I know its location?
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If you have Leroy install a T in the return line from the Engine oil cooler, Installation of a bypass filter on a 99 should be similar to installation on my 98. I have the bypass filter installed so I pull a couple or a few bolts, remove the whole filter and change it outside the engine bay. Seems I did it that way on at least 2 vehicles.

All of my returns go to the engine oil fill neck. If you do this, you want the nipple in the fill neck pointing slightly downwards or you can get splash if you take the fill cap off with the engine running.

I have pics posted here someplace of how I mounted various bypass filters on my vehicles.

I do not think it is ever to late to start running synthetic. Since you have no blow by, I would think you would be good to go.

With the bypass filters, I run 20,000 miles oil changes with occasional oil samples sent in. The samples have always come back good. I still change at 20,000 miles - to me that is enough to justify the added expense of the bypass filter and the synthetic oil.

I was sold on synthetic oil in the early 90's by some racing friends.

For the turbo muffler, I either use the older/pre 97 ? elbow that does not have the muffler hole or I just glue something the correct size in the hole. Seems like on one of them, I found something that fit exceptionally tight and just stuck it in the hole.

Everybody advise me on the lift pump relay. I have never installed such a thing on aNything newer than a 95. Though I can see where running off the 14 ga wire would be a much better way to go. Are there any other reasons for using the lift pump relay on newer vehicles?

I am assuming they are still plug and play.

For tools to install the bypass, I used a tig welder, and I think my right angle 3/8" air drill. I'm pretty sure I also used a 1/2" unibit. They sell a half way decent 3 piece step bit set at Harbor Freight for $15 or less.

If they are still the same as they used to be, I was always satisfied with the quality of the bits when I was drilling mostly stainless.
 
Will L. said:
I agree with the amsoil or the mobil 1, and the weight of the oil. And I apologize for the bad call on the first waterpump pic, the flash made all the difference. Plan on the better duramax fan and a new fan clutch in the future. Fan clutches should be replaced every 5 years. @Burning oil - good catch, thanks for the correction. Last thing I want to do is mislead somebody.

Yes you can switch to synthetic even if it has never ran it. The concearns of going coventional to synthetic and back are mostly urban legends. The only issue we ever really saw when i was working for unical was some types of seals would seep oil.

Valve covers might depending on what they used. Your rear main wont. The front might, and the oil cooler hoses might. But the hoses you are changing anyways. The hardest part of replacing front seal is removing and installing the harmonic balancer- which should be replaced every 100,000 miles if its an AC Delco. 1/2 that if doorman. Or if you can pony the extra cash, a fluid damper will outlast multiple engines.

If you still have the phone number to the old owner, you might pile up parts changed last questions and give a call. Most folks won't mind sharing the info after it's gone, and now that the sale is made they won't "stretch the truth" on something.
Click to expand...

I switched from Dino to Synthetic and the driver's side valve cover eventually leaked 60k miles later, but the bolt had loosened in the lower rear location of the leak.

Hayden severe duty fan clutch, like $70 on Rockauto. Well worth it. Do a search here. I just installed one on my son's back in spring this year.
 
How much is the FASS bypass system?
I have a bypass centrifuge system soon to be released.

As to LP relay harness, All 6.5 trucks/Burbs will benefit from it especially if running anything better than a stock LP.
With the stock 18ga wire pumps can't pump to their potential and die early deaths. On OPS controlled LPs they die early too. My kits are plug & play. ( @jrsavole one thing I have done that you will like is use an on/off switch now for the under hood LP activation)
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Okay I just got off the phone with the PO. Very nice guy. So in 2014 the PO replaced the oil cooler lines with OEM lines. He also used Rotella HD 15W-40 oil. He said he didn't replace the water pump or air box. He said the PO he got it from must have done that work. Should I still replace the oil cooler lines considering they were just changed about 2 years ago?
Click to expand...
Yours is a 99, the fan and the air box were likely factory equipment.
 
Get stainless brake lines. Trust me on this one ;) While working on the brakes, look into the proportioning valve as it seems that few actually changed it per TSB. FERM did a nice write-up of what the Burb needs.

For the IP, my vote is new. But as mentioned, I'd hold off until you get a reason to replace it.

For the A/C, there are a number of parts that are NLA (like the line to the rear). So you will need a good A/C shop that can customize.

When playing around with the coolant hoses, look into a restrictor for the bypass hose.

Not noted yet is that you need to replace the nylon 'T' connectors that feed the front & rear heat exchangers as it is just a matter of time until (not if) they crack and leak. Like many others, they cracked on me at an inconvenient time. My cure was to replace with brass and not worry again :)

For gauges, consider a touch screen. Am currently looking at more my Edge rather than the dash as even the dash's speedo has inaccuracy. The Edge shows what the ECM sees (including corrected speed).

For oil, am currently running dyno as the motor is still breaking-in. As soon as the analysis reports shows that the motor settled-in, it will get full synthetic. After the switch to synthetic, will do analysis every 5K miles and decide whether / when to change.

For the oil cooler lines, as mentioned ditch the OE lines. I went with braided stainless.

For towing time, as mentioned get a set of 2" wheel spacers. Also, consider either ActiveSuspension or air bags.
 
Well I installed the new PMD I bought from Leroy. I also ditched the old wire harness and used the harness from Leroy however I didn't use his heat sink because it was considerably smaller then the one I had and I already had mounted my older PMD with this heat sink in the grill. Now my old PMD will be my back up which is in plastic and a foam insert in a nice little box in the truck under the passenger seat. Here are some pictures.

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Yeah I wasn't sure about blocking part of the radiator though.
Click to expand...
Check airflow over it with engine running, use stick incense or even a lit cigarette 'smoke' so you can see the flow. You will notice the smoke is pulled around the heat sink 'not through its fins then around." However, turn the fins 90 deg and the smoke will be pulled through the fins and back side of heat sink indicating best flow and cooling effect for that design when engine is running and at speed.

You can see the results w/laser thermometer too...
 
My first question:

What do you plan on doing with the truck?

What is the budget?

Dont dive in the deep end. it is expensive and some things might be un-necessary.



Here is my personal opinion and recommendations:

I would personally put the harmonic damper at high importance, whenever I replace one, unless its a bomber rig that I dont want to invest in, It will get the high quality Fluidampr.

Your cooling system is the best factory setup offered. I would leave the components alone, but do pull the grille, shroud, and radiator and clean the heck out of the entire stack. straighten fins, and flush till you can see through it. This makes the biggest difference.
If after this it wants to creep up temp wise sitting still, and you cant hear the fan kick on, get a new fan clutch. but IMO unless you are towing heavy, the d-max fan is no necessary yet, but it is rather affordable, so it wouldnt be a bad idea to get one. I dont have a running burb, and my project burb has no rear heat, so I have no experience with the tees, but the guys above do, so listen to their advice.

If the oil cooler lines are GM and new block fittings were used, I would run them, but I would allways be watching them, and giving them a full inspection every oil change. seepage at the crimp is runnable, leaks at the block fittings will get it parked immediately.
The best solution is to get Leroy's lines. It may be advantageous to wait a little to see what bypass setup you want in case you need Leroy to mod the lines.

For oil, I would run Mobil Delvac 1300 super, and then switch to Amsoil when you get all the leaks fixed.
 
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