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I think its time to put in the new ip, just making sure I dont miss the obvious

buddy said:
Sounds like you have confirmed your suspicions then.
Click to expand...

Dangit! I was hoping you wouldn't say that!

Well we reset the tdco @ -1.76 and it sounds WAY smoother and runs alot better. I am going to try this and if this doesn't work then I will pull the friggin IP. We also fixed my quick disconnect leak but that was minor. My truck says the EGR won't close the duty cylce stays at 96% at all times, but that is why the F intake is on stand by.

Thanks again caskey!
 
Doesn't have anything to do with the IP but we decided I needed a new intake elbow lastnight SOO!!!

Old set up with K47:
IMG00018-20101009-1442.jpg
[/IMG]

Old Elbow, that thing gets narrow:
IMG00019-20101009-1442.jpg


Old Silencer (penis as caskey calls it, lol)
IMG00020-20101009-1442.jpg


Cracked old intake, NOT GOOD:
IMG00023-20101009-1537.jpg


New Elbow! 3inch male female 90*:


Silencer plug (my truck lost its penis):
IMG00022-20101009-1536.jpg


Looks good besides my wix filter didn't fit the female end of the pipe so i trimmed the rubber on the filter. I will have to oder an aftermarket filter.
 
Last edited:
Are you talking about the desired Vs actual thing? If so they were generally close as in 9.8 vs 9.7-9.9.

I got scan basic to work on my computer until i can get the scantect problem fixed. So i can check codes and dash readings.
 
Well if the timing was down to like 5 degrees at idle then I would say it was a contributor. The EGR is not plugged in right? I mean there is no vacuum hooked up to an EGR valve? If so then it wont matter what the EGR duty cycle is doing, but you can watch for the Baro sensor and it should be around 13-14psi, if its really low could lead you to a problem.
 
buddy said:
Well if the timing was down to like 5 degrees at idle then I would say it was a contributor. The EGR is not plugged in right? I mean there is no vacuum hooked up to an EGR valve? If so then it wont matter what the EGR duty cycle is doing, but you can watch for the Baro sensor and it should be around 13-14psi, if its really low could lead you to a problem.
Click to expand...

EGR is still hooked up for now but it doesn't seem to be working right. Says code 33. I have an F upper and lower to put on and plan on doing it soon (when I get a reflash). Caskey thinks he needs more steak so he will have to help. lol
 
Those vacuum caps always rot out on me in a couple years. He wont need it for a couple years though. When you need to plug a line though and not a port you need something to stick in it, thats where golf tees have helped me out. The cap may fit over the molded line end though if there is one.
 
buddy said:
Those vacuum caps always rot out on me in a couple years. He wont need it for a couple years though. When you need to plug a line though and not a port you need something to stick in it, thats where golf tees have helped me out. The cap may fit over the molded line end though if there is one.
Click to expand...

All lines go back to a port.....that's where you cap it.

If you buy the "cheap" ones, they will crack in short order. No argument there. Spend a couple more bucks and get the good ones not made out of plain old rubber.

Anyways, not getting into it any more than I already have.

Cheers
 
This particular one might not have a port/nipple because the hose Ts and one goes to the vacuum sensor and other to the EGR valve. So I think it has the molded rubber that you push the hard platic line into. Thats now mine was anyway. Of course a couple years of breaking lines didnt leave it that way long and then deleting it.
 
Mine still has the forked inlet and a single outlet to the EGR. Do I need to plug both the inlet and outlet at the solenoid on the lower intake?
 
Until you get a reflashed or L65 PCM you need the outlet of the solenoid to go to the vacuum/BARO sensor. If its not now thats why you would get the low vacuum DTC 33. So You remove any lines going to the EGR valve, but you need the outlet of the solenoid to go to the vac sensor on the firewall.
 
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