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HX40II Turbo Install

:agreed: And IMHO the 20 psi the HX40II is set at out of the box is asking for a oil pan full of bits and pieces. I am betting limiting it to stock (ish) 10 psi will net more than stock power all other things being stock. :hihi:

With a inter-cooler, well that would be a horse of a different color.
 
If it could be set to 10 psi thats what i would set it too but i guess it wont go that low, where should i get arp headstuds and head gaskets
 
I run the ATT at 14 PSI and it will hit 18 PSI loaded. The only thing keeping me from advancing the timing more, adding more fuel, and getting boost is the cracks I have in the main webs on the 93. The cracks are from 30K miles pushing the GM3 as hard as possible at 14 PSI. The engine has to work harder at 14 PSI with a GM3 than it does with an ATT. The turbo discussed here should be between the two if not closer to the ATT for less engine work for the boost seen. Less back pressure, lower IAT's, lower EGT's, and less cooling fan use. The 14 psi number is used only because the GMx turbo's choke there. And that is where the fuel was set when I put the ATT on the 1993.
 
Im trying to see if its worth getting the turbo and possibly blowing my engine or just not getting the turbo, some people say it will be fine and some say it wont
 
Im trying to see if its worth getting the turbo and possibly blowing my engine or just not getting the turbo, some people say it will be fine and some say it wont

I built a simple Turbo Controller that works well with the stock wastegate arm, I could set it at 10 psi max all the way up past 20
 
the GM turbo is more likely to blow your engine than any of them. its the amount of boost combined with condition of the engine, condition of injectors, condition of balancers (both), condition of mounts, amount of fueling and timing, ect....

I do not think 20psi is all that much, I have been running that much for a few years on my stock engine, although not continous load like towing. I would definately use head studs if ever in there working on it.
 
the GM turbo is more likely to blow your engine than any of them.
That is what I was getting at. Better turbo, same HP at lower PSI, less heat, stress....

I do not think 20psi is all that much, I have been running that much for a few years on my stock engine, although not continuous load like towing.
I do tend to be on the conservative side of such things. I hate breaking stuff, and having to fix it when I could be doing new stuff. :D

Do the GM4 through GM8's all choke at 14 psi? I thought I remembered yes. I had no way of measuring boost for the short time I drove the GM4 so :???:
 
Shoot do you want to sell it or make me one, if it works good ill buy it do you have any pics

IMG_1948.jpg

IMG_1947.jpg
 
Is the stock rod ferrous or stainless steel? How about your length of allthread, is that stainless?
 
Is that a kitchen sink strainer? IMO I would not use it. A Amsoil, cone, k47, k&n or.... for me
 
OMG, I would not use one of those things on any engine. Have you ever seen a dirty air filter. sticks, twigs, bees, dirt and crud. While that screen may stop most large items from being sucked into the turbo it won't do much for dust, dirt or sand. On second thought, I would use that strainer on a marine engine in a boat since the aforementioned items are not a big problem on the water.
 
Or Walt's old filters that apparently came apart.

Walt's filters never came apart, that was some serious trolling by a competitor that started that thread and kept "complaining" that the filter he sold came apart and was sucked into his turbo and that Walt wouldn't make good on anything. Walt's filters are made for him by a major manufacturer (and were back then, too) with an impeccable quality record. I was running one on my '94 for two years with no problems during that whole fiasco on his sponsored forum, and when I replace my two heat-cracked heads, will continue to run it on there. I trust Walt's filters as much as I do K&N's or S&B's.
 
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