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HX40 wII turbo

I glanced at his site, but he has no info on it (New turbo). That's why I was askin. Guess I'll have to wait a lil bit longer.
 
sshewins said:
Chris, do you think that, that particular configuration will work with a DS4? I mean work well/good.
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Yes,,, I don't see why it wouldn't?? You might get someone to program more fuel also for a little more flow ... I love this set up, more power than I need 99% of the time..
 
Not trying to thread jack sorry, BUT I am looking to buy myself an HX40W-II next week along with one of racedaymechanic's downpipes if he has any left and just had one question, how is boost controlled on the turbo? I know it is wastegated but what is everyone using to keep it around 10-14psi? I am currently running a turbomaster from heath.. could I just use it on the HX40?


Sorry to be a n00b :(
 
scgeek12 said:
Not trying to thread jack sorry, BUT I am looking to buy myself an HX40W-II next week along with one of racedaymechanic's downpipes if he has any left and just had one question, how is boost controlled on the turbo? I know it is wastegated but what is everyone using to keep it around 10-14psi? I am currently running a turbomaster from heath.. could I just use it on the HX40?


Sorry to be a n00b :(
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It will have/need it's own "turbomaster" and is incompatible with the Heath one. I think racedaymechanic sells one if not an entire kit. The Heath unit has value on the classifieds however.

You are limiting yourself at the lower 14 PSI boost number. This 14 PSI number is the redline for a GMx turbo. Sure it will perform better than the GMx at 14 PSI... I get good results with 23 PSI out of the HX40II turbo. It will take you 23 PSI of boost to get the same HP/TQ as an ATT at 14 PSI. Now if you don't have ARP head studs you can be concerned about keeping the heads on getting crazy with boost. Nothing I would worry about, but, I fix my own carnage... On a regular basis. :hihi:
 
Lol, with the exception of the turbomaster and SB cold air intake my engine is completely stock.. I dont think it would hold up to 23psi? Would the A-team turbo be a better choice (from leeroydiesel right?) if I dont plan on upgrading anything else? Ill be honest this truck is my daily driver and I will probably never tow anything with it, the only reason I wanted to upgrade to the HX40 was for the turbo noise.. I definitely like the sound of the HX40 better than the ATT
Please dont hate to much for just wanting the sound lol! :cheers2:

Also, I am going to have to show my n00bishness even more by asking how the boost is controlled on the ATT as well? it doesn't appear to be wastegated? This is my first diesel AND first turbo vehicle so I am completely new to all of this sorry
 
I have had a hx402 on my truck for 15 month's now and have had no problems. I have put some miles towing and city drive. I love it. My truck has no tune. To control the boost I have a GM 3bar sensor and the factory vacuum waste gate. I run 14-15 psi.
 
My vacuum pump took a shit on me :( which is why I have the heath turbomaste on the GM8, I do plan on doing the EGR delete and getting a tune of somesort.. I am still leaning towards the HX40, i PM'd racedaymechanic and he is going to see if he has any "turbomasters" for the HX40 left to sell, which would be awsome, I just really love the sound of the 4" straight pipe (which I have) and the Hx40 together :)
 
Thank you. I swapped back to the small housing a while back. i forgot how scary it sounded haha Everytime I hit main street I get a lot of looks
 
restoguy said:
Let me see if I used the search button correctly...

HX40II is the 'far eastern' version of a Super HX40 holset. Right? And a SHX40 is a normal 40 with a specific turbine wheel/housing. Yes? I'm asking because I'm the kind of guy that would rather buy a Holset than an ebay piece if I can make it happen. Can't always find/afford it, but I try.

Secondly, I hear dodge guys talking about being careful with the 40 so as to not break the shaft with a quick 'off throttle' while under heavy boost. Surge or something makes it snap I guess. Can anyone speak to this? Is there a better option? A phat shaft or something?
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HX40 has the 16 cm housing and I believe the HX40II is the same but a 12/14 cm housing for faster spool. Not sure if the compressor is smaller or not.

We won't have issue's snapping shafts as we don't push 40/50 psi.

sctrailrider said:
I am one that built a "hybrid" as some call it... true Holset, my comp blade is a HX40 - 6 blade "Pro" ( not the 7 blade super) 60/86, 49 trim with a pro style compressor cover..... my turbine blade is a HX35 - 10 blade 60/70, 84 trim.... and I am currently using a 14 cm turbine hsg....

I have built 3 turbo's and tested them over the last 8 months, this is so far the best for power, spool up, lower egt's.... for me anyway... all were HX40 base with different hot & cold side changes.... and I do have a intercooler and it really helps.. I can hit & hold 30psi when ever it's needed, but I rarely need that much towing grossing 20,000 lbs.....

Be aware there are some that call them "super or pro" , there are a few Holset part#'s that make them different and some folks aren't really sure what they have, the right part#'s are out there to be sure you get what is the real thing...

If you watch the auction sites you can get a good start to a great turbo if you take your time and do some research....
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Very cool, I want to try a 60mm wheel on my combo but so far, my drive pressures etc are not bad, just need a decent, not worn IP to take advantage. I can hit 20 psi right now and she scoots.
 
Might as well hop on and ask a few questions after reading through this thread :)

I'm looking for a decent HX40WII setup, I do a fair amount of towing, and mid-load hauling. Open to buying used, if it's in the right price range.

Given that I'm in Canada, getting parts from the US is an expensive and, unreliable option. Does anyone know of a good source for these parts? I'll also be looking for a downpipe adapter from RaceDay, if he has one kicking around still.

Wondering about the blade configuration as well. If someone wouldn't mind helping out a newbie, I'd much appreciate it.

Truck specs are as follows:

96 K2500
6.5, stock other than PMD relocate. DS4.
fresh rebuilt NV4500, 4.10 gears
EGT, Boost and Trans temp gauges.

Thanks in advance!
 
Shipping to Canada is not a big issue and the other, GST tax, can be no problem either. Quite a few shipments made to Canada. What is so expensive about buying parts from the US????
 
Slim Shady said:
Shipping to Canada is not a big issue and the other, GST tax, can be no problem either. Quite a few shipments made to Canada. What is so expensive about buying parts from the US????
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The main issue we have is with the couriers, UPS being the worst.

They charge brokerage, which is a fee to make sure they get paid for making customs walk over and check the documentation. This can be anything from a percentage to a flat fee. To add insult to injury, they charge you a cod fee to pick up the brokerage fee since they wont let you pay at the time of shipping.

Brokerage can often cost more than the item itself.

For example: my exhaust had a $60 fee i had to pay at delivery. A friend down the road had to pay $150 for delivery from the same source for the same item.

Brokerage is another name for stealing in my books.

USPS shipping costs include brokerage services so you know UPS is a bunch of crooks. USPS is usually the same cost or less than UPS too. It's large items that are the problem as USPS has limits on size and weight.

Shipping cost, GST and duties cross border is just a fact of life getting stuff from the US. What we object to is being "rooked" by a third party fir even more money...bastards.
 
great white said:
The main issue we have is with the couriers, UPS being the worst.

They charge brokerage, which is a fee to make sure they get paid for making customs walk over and check the documentation. This can be anything from a percentage to a flat fee. To add insult to injury, they charge you a cod fee to pick up the brokerage fee since they wont let you pay at the time of shipping.

Brokerage can often cost more than the item itself.

For example: my exhaust had a $60 fee i had to pay at delivery. A friend down the road had to pay $150 for delivery from the same source for the same item.

Brokerage is another name for stealing in my books.

USPS shipping costs include brokerage services so you know UPS is a bunch of crooks. USPS is usually the same cost or less than UPS too. It's large items that are the problem as USPS has limits on size and weight.

Shipping cost, GST and duties cross border is just a fact of life getting stuff from the US. What we object to is being "rooked" by a third party fir even more money...bastards.
Click to expand...


Exactly. I purchased gauges not long ago, the shipping was about $15, the brokerage fee on a $270 kit was $90. Now do the math and factor that up to a $7-800 turbo. No thanks....Worst case scenario I'll bring something over if I have to, but I'd really rather buy from someone in Canada if they have one kicking around. Hence me coming here.
 
bc4x4 said:
Exactly. I purchased gauges not long ago, the shipping was about $15, the brokerage fee on a $270 kit was $90. Now do the math and factor that up to a $7-800 turbo. No thanks....Worst case scenario I'll bring something over if I have to, but I'd really rather buy from someone in Canada if they have one kicking around. Hence me coming here.
Click to expand...

This is how they screw us: http://www.ups.com/media/en/ca/ca_brokerage.pdf

By shipping with them, you agree to their fees. Both consignor and consignee. Show up at the door and not pay, they don't release your item. It's a lien on your property because you owe them money.

Double sucks if the business you buy from ships UPS after the fact and doesn't tell you. I've had that happen before after explaining it explicitly to the seller.

"Oh, my package is here. Great, I really need that part. Surprise! gimme my money or I keep your sh......."

Problem is, there's no consistency in application of their rules. Sometimes it's a simple fee, sometimes they will hit you like the hammer of an angry god with all the fees. It seems like it depends on how grouchy they are the day your package passes through the depot.

I don't deal cross border with business that only ship UPS. It's unfortunate, but it's a matter of principle for me as much as anything else....
 
great white said:
This is how they screw us: http://www.ups.com/media/en/ca/ca_brokerage.pdf

By shipping with them, you agree to their fees. Both consignor and consignee. Show up at the door and not pay, they don't release your item. It's a lien on your property because you owe them money.

Double sucks if the business you buy from ships UPS after the fact and doesn't tell you. I've had that happen before after explaining it explicitly to the seller.

"Oh, my package is here. Great, I really need that part. Surprise! gimme my money or I keep your sh......."

Problem is, there's no consistency in application of their rules. Sometimes it's a simple fee, sometimes they will hit you like the hammer of an angry god with all the fees. It seems like it depends on how grouchy they are the day your package passes through the depot.

I don't deal cross border with business that only ship UPS. It's unfortunate, but it's a matter of principle for me as much as anything else....
Click to expand...


I have alway s"worked" with my Canadian customers. But were and what you buy is certianly your own choice, sorry for asking. Especially to the original poster.
 
Slim Shady said:
I have alway s"worked" with my Canadian customers. But were and what you buy is certianly your own choice, sorry for asking. Especially to the original poster.
Click to expand...

Not sure why, you didn't say anything wrong :). I certainly didn't intend to turn this into an argument.

I purchase from US companies (and actually have a few that I give my business only to them, because of the quality) , just try to avoid it whenever possible, especially with expensive orders like a turbo. Looks like I have no choice though :)

No harm done. I posted a simple question, and got a complicated (and somewhat unrelated) answer :D
 
I'm gonna through out a question here. For those of us running all mechanical, is the DB2 able to provide enough fuel for an HX40 or HX40II? Of course a FTB kit and Leroy's LP would already be in the equation.
 
Depends on which DB2.. There are many different variations of them, some with very low, and some with very high fueling rates. Some with rather small plungers, some with larger plungers.. some with 2 plungers, some with 4 plungers.





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