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how to PM rear brakes on a '99 C3500?

I installed the new bearings and seal, carefully cleaned off the axle, and I can't get the drum more than 1/3 of the way over the new shoes. The adjusting screw is fully closed. The parking brake pedal is released and all the way up. The parking brake lever is all the way aft.

I posted photos showing the brakes before I installed the drum. The only change I made from the most recent photo was to fully close the adjusting screw.

So now I'm back to my previous question. How do you adjust the parking brake? I posted photos of where the cable attaches to the brake pedal, the connection to the rear cable, the connection to the passenger-side parking brake, and the cable running back to the driver-side parking brake. I see no opportunity for adjusting the driver-side parking brake cable length. I do see where you adjust the passenger-side cable.

Thanks again for all your help.
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I must be missing some part(s). The cable passes through the stamped part to the driver's side rear brake lever. On the far side of the stamping, the cable passes through a black sheath, which is just visible on the far side of the stamping in this photo. The stamping bears on that sheath. Pulling/releasing the cable causes it to move back & forth through the stamping, but the stamping never moves. The threaded rod adjusts the length of the cable to the rear brake (or it would if it weren't frozen). Lengthening that cable would reduce the load on the black sheath, but it has no connection to the cable leading to the brake pedal.

I soaked the frozen parts in penetrating oil. I can go in there with a blowtorch and try to break things free, but I can't see how that will have any bearing on the cable that passes between the brake pedal and the driver's side parking brake lever.

I guess it's time to visit the Chevy parts guy again, to look at his pictures and see what I'm supposed to have.

Thanks,
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Once more into the breach...

I still don't understand how loosening the threaded rod on the passenger-side cable can loosen the driver-side cable, but you guys and the manual say it does, so I gave it a shot. After repeated sessions with penetrating oil, and then with heat, I succeeded in shearing the rod, destroying the passenger-side brake cable and leaving the rod frozen in the equalizer. I ordered a new cable. I'm looking for a new equalizer.

So the good news is this relaxed the driver-side parking brake cable, so I could install the hub and axle. The bad news is now I have to tear down the other brake in order to install the new cable. While I'm in there, I'll clean up the rust, and replace the brake parts and bearings. At least this time I'll have the necessary tools & I'll know what I'm doing, sort of.

When all that's done, I'll come back to you guys for advice and guidance on bleeding the brakes.

Thanks for all your support.
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it's starting make me wonder how the mechanic got it back together is the first place. maybe that's why the bar wasn't in right.:rolleyes5:
 
I think perhaps the old shoes were worn enough to make a difference. I could get the drum 1/3 of the way over the new shoes.

The bar dislodged with a dramatic ping when I backed up, about 20 miles after the parking brake repair. It wasn't bent at all. It's possible I backed up with the parking brake engaged. I'm not used to having one that works.

Either way, I can't imagine what he could have done to cause this.

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btfarm said:
All this time I ASSumed you were doing both sides.
Click to expand...

One side at a time. I don't have the best workspace. I need to turn the truck around to work on the other side. I had planned to turn it around with working parking brakes, and to bleed the brakes when I'd finished the second side. Now I guess I'll turn it around with no brakes, very gently.
 
you could bleed the side you have done. and have less to bleed later. I know it sounds like doing work twice. by the way you will still have some brakes. the front half still work.

you can bleed them a couple of different ways.

two people, one at the peddle and one opening/closing the valve.
one person with a kit/ one way check valve.
or if you got time you could gravity bleed it. works best if the front is higher than the back. the just put a hose on the bleeder, other end is a container. then just crack the bleeder a bit and wait.

one thing to remember DON'T, i repeat DON'T let the master get to low or you'll be doing it all over.
 
Thanks! I flushed the brake fluid. The old stuff was very dark :eek:. I suctioned the fluid from the reservoir, wiped out the gunk at the bottom, refilled with fresh fluid, and bled until I got clear fluid. I'm back on the road, though still without a parking brake while I wait for a new cable. I had to get the equalizer from the dealer, for the princely sum of $8. Now all I need is the cable to come in.

I'll rebuild the other rear brake next. Then I'll attack the front brakes.

This truck is our take-trash-to-the-dump vehicle. I'll be making a bunch of dump runs tomorrow, and that will do a lot to improve my domestic tranquility :D.

Thanks Guys!
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glad to see your back up and running. brake fluid is one of those forgotten till it fails items.did you bleed both sides of the rear?
 
Here's a point that will be obvious to those with experience, but might be of value to other truck newbies like me. When I re-mounted the wheels, I carefully torqued the lug nuts to 140 ft-lbs per the manual. After driving about 10 miles, I re-torqued them. Many of the lug nuts rotated another 10-15 degrees before reaching 140 ft-lbs. I plan to keep rechecking them every so often, until they stay properly torqued.
 
I thought rebuilding the second hub & brake would be easy, now that I've done this before. This time, I have all the tools, parts, and instructions beforehand. Unfortunately, this time the brake line fitting was frozen to the line, so the line twisted as I turned the fitting. Bummer. I went to the local AutoZone & bought a pre-made 3/16 brake line with the right threads on the fittings. I estimate that it's about 6" longer than the original. I also bought a tube bender.

Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me before I start bending brake line for the first time? The AZ line doesn't have the protective shell of the original line. The line-holding brackets that held the old line will be quite loose if I re-use them for this new line. I suppose I could wrap the line with nylon wire ties where it passes through the brackets. Or is there a better way?

Thanks!
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As to the extra length you can just put a loop in it along the top of the differential. If the old one had a loop, just make a bigger one at the same location.
Locate where your clamp(s) will be, mark the tube, slide the clamp out of the way, put a round or 2 of electrical tape on the tube, and slide the clamp over it.
 
Thing's I've learned doing brake lines. take your time. once bent they don't straiten back out. long curves are easier to make if you've got the space. and the old one makes a good template if you ca get it out in one piece.
 
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