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how to PM rear brakes on a '99 C3500?

Thanks guys. I took the old line to the store to use in selecting a compatible replacement. Then I used the old line as a bending template, and put a loop above the diff as suggested.

Here's a suggestion for other newbies like me. Tape the fittings to the end before you start bending. It's easy for them to slide around, and once you bend the tube the fitting can no longer pass over the bend. I did some of my bending in place, while under the truck, and with the old tube for reference. It's easy to lose track of those slippery fittings while juggling tubes and tools in cramped quarters. So then you have to straighten your carefully-crafted bend, slide the fitting back where it belongs, and re-bend your tube. The re-bend always looks more wobbly than the original.
 
Differential pix

Hi folks.

Here we have photos of the differential. I cleaned out the old lube & gasket, treated the rust on the cover, and reassembled with RTV. I decided the fill plug would be "a bridge too far", so I'll just pour the lube down the axle tube while I have the axle out doing the passenger side brake. I'm planning a major frame-rust-treatment project later, and I'll attack the diff fill plug & cover then. Though I might just put drain & fill plugs in the cover & write off this fill plug. I worry that getting it out might cause more collateral damage than it's worth.

The ring gear teeth are not perfect, as shown in the close-up. How worried should I be about this? This diff has seen 175K miles.

Thanks,
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IMG_7188.jpgIMG_7191.jpgIMG_7223.jpg
 
Cable/equaizer thread mismatch. AARGH!

I finished the RH brake & bearings. I mounted the wheels before crawling underneath to replace the parking brake cable. We lost an EMT last week when his vehicle slipped off the jack stand and crushed him. He was the Fire Department's master mechanic, working on his vehicle at home. I figure with the wheels mounted it can't fall as far.

I worked my way from the drum to the equalizer, removing the old cable and installing the new one. When I got to the equalizer, the threads don't match!! So now I get to un-install the cable, wheels, hub and brakes in order to take out the cable.

The only good news is that the young kids playing nearby didn't learn any new words from me.
 
The ring gear IS pretty nasty lookin'. I'd go ahead and run it with some new gear lube. If it starts howling then you'll have to worry about it. Otherwise roll the dice... ;)
 
btfarm said:
The ring gear IS pretty nasty lookin'. I'd go ahead and run it with some new gear lube. If it starts howling then you'll have to worry about it. Otherwise roll the dice... ;)
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. The nastiness is on the side of the teeth that are loaded in reverse. The sides that are loaded going forward look clean.

Thanks!
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great thread doing my truck now dont mean to thread jack... but anyone know the easy way to seperate the rear hubs from the drum? since it wasn't covered earlier?
 
question was how to seperate the drum from the hub. but heres how i did it on my '94 4x4 cc drw, got the whole assembly off by pulling the axles and then taking the large spindle nut/clip/drift pin, remove the drum/hub assembly from the spindle. then had to press all the wheel studs out from the front of the hub and through the back of the drum then the hub would come apart from the drum with a few taps from a hammer, so i could install the new wearever drums from advanced auto parts (which were out of round so beware!) install was the reverse; lay drum on the back of the hub, press wheel studs through the back of the drum into the hub, this is the only way i could figure out to do mine, not sure if its the right way but worked for me... used a cheapo 20 ton press for the work it got the job done, also soaked everything in penatrating oil the night before. sorry should have taken pictures
 
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