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How to: K2500 front rotor / disc replacement - 8 lug, 4x4

Stud damage is always possible. However this tool is more accurate than a 10# sledge hammer and repeated inaccurate blows for a normal hammer. So far I have only tossed 1 stud and that was for refusal to go back in all the way.

Giving you and idea to start with then adjust quality and cost to your budget snapon.com
Air Hammer, Heavy Duty Stock#: AT2050 $199.00
Hammer, Round, 1" head, 7" Stock#: PHG68 $45.99

And you may as well do ball joints and tie rods while you are there as our trucks eat em often...
Separator, Ball Joint and Tie Rod, 13/16" Opening, 8 5/16"
Stock#: PHG63A $90.45
 
jrsavoie said:
I've had the air hammer for many yeaRS. Just don't have that attachment. Icould probably make one out of an old tool though
Click to expand...

I would buy the proper tool. Hammers out of the wrong steel can mushroom and shatter or send shrapnel out at painfully 'lets go to the ER' speeds.
 
anyone happen to know what type of socket is required for removing the caliper 8 or 9 mm allen head.
 
I use the biggest standard allen in my Snap-on 3/8" drive set. It feels snug, so I'm assuming that it is a standard allen and not a metric.

It could be an 8mm that would be very close to a 5/16
 
I have been changing out the rotors on my 1994 3/4 ton. This posting helped tremendously. The previous owner 'rounded' a couple of the hub bolts - I got all but one out (going to Harbor Freight for some bolt extractors). The problem I am having now is finding replacement bolts. The only thing I could find online so far were $43 a bolt. Any body have a source?
If all else fails I will check some of the junk yards.
 
This part number is for the 4 hub bolts?
I just wanted to make sure before ordering - the pack comes with 5 bolts which seems odd when there are only 4 needed per side.
 
I feel it is necessary to send a thank you to everyone on this thread. There is really nowhere else to find this information. It's funny how Chilton pretends that this rotor/hub combination doesn't exist.

I changed my divers side today, no real issues. I took the axle nut off with a 1 3/16" (I think) socket and an air gun. Then looked at the 4 bolts on the back side and one was loose. Strange. Not too much rust thank God.

Hopefully the pax side will go just as smooth.

Thanks again.

1996 Chevy K2500HD excab, 6.5 TD, 138,000 miles
 
Great thread and excellent instruction and advice. All I'm missing is the torque spec for the 35 mm axle locknut. I've seen a couple of articles that say torque to 50 then back off and re torque to 31ft.lbs. Saw another that said 2
75 ft.lbs.
 
Here is what I found when I did mine.

The torque for the axle shaft to hub nut has been revised several times over the years. For an 8 lug 4x4, it's 177 lb/ft. About double that of the average 1/2" impact wrench. The nut, according to the manual, should NOT be reused (although I have on several necessary occasions). The hub on a 4x4 MUST be torqued before bearing the full vehicle weight. The nut supports the bearing. A 2wd can be torqued after the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing, as it is fully supported with or without the nut.

I use the 1/2" impact wrench to sock it down, install the wheel/tire, then lower the tire to the ground enough to prevent turning. Then, put the full torque on it.

If you replaced the hub, the hub to knuckle bolts are torqued to 133 lb/ft, the sensor mounting bolt is 13 ft/lb, and the caliper mounting bracket to knuckle is 221 ft/lb.
Click to expand...
 
I'll probably get flamed for this but I never torque mine that tight. IMO that part of why these don't last that long. Mine have 273k on them and still going.

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
It was last Dec when I did mine I think I torqued them to the spec I had. it is a big nut but I am sure if you use a good amount of force it would be good enough.
 
If you are replacing hub bearings, and/or half shafts, you should replace the seal in the spindle on 4x4 trucks. The hub bearings do have a seal on the back side that seals the bearing to the housing. The other seal is for the half shaft entering the spindle/hub. This seal replacement requires the half shaft to be removed and is in the spindle. It has a flange on it so it only comes out/in on the backside of the spindle.

Be careful as the seal has a lip below it in the spindle housing so clean the grease out before pounding the seal out. You want to make sure your aim is accurate to remove the old seal.

I suspect the last set of hub bearings of mine drank a little too much water fording monsoon "road rivers" due to these worn seals. Whatever, the part number is National 710103. 1993 non front ABS the high GVR rating 8 lug. YMMV
 
Some pictures of the seal removed:
Outboard and yes the dent is where I missed...
100_5166.jpg
Inboard side:
100_5167.jpg

Seal, National 710103, going in: (Yes IMO you need to grease the seal.)
100_5168.jpg

Yes, the sway bar link has to be removed to get the half shaft out of the way.
100_5169.jpg
 
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