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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

I think I figured it out
It was infront of my face the entire ****ing time.

20250910_182428.jpg
See that wire? Remember it was plugged on that metal tab
Screenshot_20250910_182704_Google.jpg

Im going off that image as I have nothing else to go off of, now look at what's supposed to be connected to where that light yellow cable was plugged in at

The damn cold advance solenoid wire wasnt ever plugged in at all.

Ive since then plugged in the cold advance solenoid to where its supposed to be in at, so we will see tomorrow if it starts up better

But now, where on earth do I plug that yellow cable at? And, what even is it??

I really hope this is it, holy cow, if this is it.
 

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Started up the 6.2 with the cold advance solenoid plugged in, I havent heard or felt a difference yet, however, it was run an hour ago and its 80°F here.


I will start it up with the correct plug in tomorrow, ill even take it off.mid run and see if the idle changes (apparently thats one way to check if the solenoid went bad)

Current connections:20250910_183955.jpg20250910_184117.jpg20250910_184126.jpg20250910_184132.jpg
 
Update:

Did a cold start today with the cold advance solenoid (finally) plugged ins


I will admit, it does look as if it smoked alot less, heck, possibly even started up smoother (?), but you all be the judge of that.

I disconnected the solenoid at the IP as (apparently) one way to tell if it works or not as if it sounds different upon disconnecting, I personally did not hear a difference when this happened, but again, what do you all say?
 
follow that yellow wire back into the harness and see where it goes. you should find a thermostatic switch similar to a coolant temp sender threaded into a water jacket. there will be two wires connected to it, one is that yellow wire, the other should be a 12v+ coming from the ignition switch. check to see if it has power with the key on. when it's below 60 degrees it will pass power through to the cold advance solenoid to help with warm up.
 
to check timing, an easy way is to look on the passenger side of the IP for a long lever that runs from the throttle shaft down to the bottom of the IP to a plunger which it pushes on at the throttle is pressed. you will need a flash light to see the plunger at the bottom of the IP on that side.

now with the engine running and fully warm use a long screwdriver or small prybar and stick it down there so you can gently push in on the bottom of that lever pushing the plunger in. you should notice the engine tone and idle change along with blue smoke coming from the exhaust. I will need to find the details on how to tell using this method if the timing is off, but @Will L. and @ak diesel driver can probably easier explain what to listen and look for to give you a tell tail sign how good or off the timing is using this method.
 
follow that yellow wire back into the harness and see where it goes. you should find a thermostatic switch similar to a coolant temp sender threaded into a water jacket. there will be two wires connected to it, one is that yellow wire, the other should be a 12v+ coming from the ignition switch. check to see if it has power with the key on. when it's below 60 degrees it will pass power through to the cold advance solenoid to help with warm up.
Both wires are plugged into the same connector so that would be more of a pass through.
But, who knows what some PO may have done as a cobble up job.
An actual temp sensor would have two wire positions passing through it, or, one wire and the sensor would ne a grounding unit.
 
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