How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[dbrannon79]

I swapped them out on the 6.2 block I have on the stand without any issues. they fit just fine. remember it's only a 1/4" height difference. not much.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

I swapped them out on the 6.2 block I have on the stand without any issues. they fit just fine. remember it's only a 1/4" height difference. not much.

Thats the thing, I waa told if I have long body ones, and I add short body ones, sure it'll screw in, but (allegedly) the lines won't reach?? Or screw onto said injectors

 

[Will L.]

They should work without being tested/ balanced. How well they work is unknown because modern production of old designs has become a game of how cheap can we make this part.

When they build them- they may or may not test them. But back in the day, the German Bosch ones could be opened up and you would find shims in them. Not now, not from any of the manufacturers.

1850 is for non turbo, stock turbo or a turbo kept at roughly 12 psi on the GM turbos the pop pressure was raised to 2150 or 2250 depending where you read. The guy saying 2050- he is either wrong or had a typo, never saw that spec anywhere.

The specification is plus or minus 200 psi.
So imagine if 2150 is your goal, some can be at 2350 and some can be at 1950 and all in between.
Will the engine run? Yup.

Some guys have more power than others, some have better mpg than others, some engines run smoother and longer than others, some have more smoke from unburned fuel than others. Roll the dice if you are always the lucky guy, but use $5 of the saved money and get that winning lottery ticket while you’re at it since always lucky.

Or, hedge your bet. Spend the money and have them balance so you get the engine to run balanced as it can from fuel supply.

Because you don’t know if the threads are right, remove one injector and test fit. No need to tighten, just thread in. Then when you know you have the right ones- send them out. Screw back in the one you have & still drive the truck until the new ones come back.

As to the lines fitting- dont kink it he steel lines obviously but just flex them into place.
If you read around you might find misinformation that there is a coating in the lines. This is wrong.

My guess where this came from is Some people had horrible condition fuel that dried up in the lines leaving a shellac like material like one finds in old carburetors. There is zero concern bending the lines slightly to make them fit. Just do it patiently and you will be fine.


Yes there was a little smoke on your video- seems like oil on a manifold or something. Can’t really tell in the video but it is visible.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Holy cow, this is alot of information to take in

I guess the only question i have now is, what PSI should my injectors be at?? My motor does have the ATS Kit, which i know plays a role, I just need to know how much of said role

i shouldnt be this stressed over damn injectors

They should work without being tested/ balanced. How well they work is unknown because modern production of old designs has become a game of how cheap can we make this part.

When they build them- they may or may not test them. But back in the day, the German Bosch ones could be opened up and you would find shims in them. Not now, not from any of the manufacturers.

1850 is for non turbo, stock turbo or a turbo kept at roughly 12 psi on the GM turbos the pop pressure was raised to 2150 or 2250 depending where you read. The guy saying 2050- he is either wrong or had a typo, never saw that spec anywhere.

The specification is plus or minus 200 psi.
So imagine if 2150 is your goal, some can be at 2350 and some can be at 1950 and all in between.
Will the engine run? Yup.

Some guys have more power than others, some have better mpg than others, some engines run smoother and longer than others, some have more smoke from unburned fuel than others. Roll the dice if you are always the lucky guy, but use $5 of the saved money and get that winning lottery ticket while you’re at it since always lucky.

Or, hedge your bet. Spend the money and have them balance so you get the engine to run balanced as it can from fuel supply.

Because you don’t know if the threads are right, remove one injector and test fit. No need to tighten, just thread in. Then when you know you have the right ones- send them out. Screw back in the one you have & still drive the truck until the new ones come back.

As to the lines fitting- dont kink it he steel lines obviously but just flex them into place.
If you read around you might find misinformation that there is a coating in the lines. This is wrong.

My guess where this came from is Some people had horrible condition fuel that dried up in the lines leaving a shellac like material like one finds in old carburetors. There is zero concern bending the lines slightly to make them fit. Just do it patiently and you will be fine.


Yes there was a little smoke on your video- seems like oil on a manifold or something. Can’t really tell in the video but it is visible.

 

[dbrannon79]

I would say start at the stock spec for factory turbo, 2150. then go from there. have your old ones tested and see where they are at.

 

[MrMarty51]

I would say start at the stock spec for factory turbo, 2150. then go from there. have your old ones tested and see where they are at.