• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

HOLY CRAP! Billet compressor wheel for the factory turbo.

Paveltolz said:
It was most definitely a compliment. By the way, hope the recovery is going as envisioned.

Got the Billeted Sculpted Aluminum Wheel (BS-AW?) today. Ordered Sunday, the shipping window was 5-14 FEB 14 so this was a pleasant surprise. I'll take it with me this weekend and show it to AK Diesel Driver, Will-L and Big-T.

Good shipping protection inside. Best I've seen from an Ebay vendor
View attachment 40724

Box is labeled rather than hand jammed printing as is the shipping box which makes it seem like a drop shipment except the seller's label is on the box as a returnee.
View attachment 40723 Ok, so its an MFSC611C I didn't think calling it a Mother....SCrap.... was appropriate . We ought to try to maintain some sense of decorum. :rolleyes5:

BS-AW wheel ensconced in bubble wrap. Absolutely no room for movement or damage.
View attachment 40722

Very light weight, not having held one of these off the Turbo, I was surprised.
View attachment 40720View attachment 40719

Label stamped on the back. I'm assuming the small oval cut is for balancing?
View attachment 40721

Measurements
View attachment 40718 Base width of blades (or is this the "Exducer" I'm ignorant and tired of trying to figure out the jargon on my own :eek: )

View attachment 40717 Top (Inducer?)

View attachment 40716 Centerline width

View attachment 40715 Primary blade width (insert correct term here someone please)

View attachment 40725 Secondary blade width



Impression: It feels fragile. Blade width doesn't change. from base to tip. Edges are sharp but not jagged

Hope this helps with some of the curiosity.
Click to expand...

That's pretty cool and yeah, its supposed to be light, ;)

Large diameter is exducer, smaller is inducer for the comp wheel, reversed for the turbine wheel. He said he stocks them, hence why he said he has to wait 3 days for his next batch to arrive.
 
Paveltolz said:
View attachment 40719
View attachment 40725 Secondary blade width. . .

Hope this helps with some of the curiosity.
Click to expand...

About the blade edges (outboard, not leading edge), it looked like there were bright spots along the edges of the blades which were not in the same locations relative to each blade. Similar for the wheel's base as there were a couple bright spots where I'd expect flat light. But then in a couple cases, perhaps the lens is picking up reflections of other things in the room . . .?

And by the way, nice work with the documentation :)
 
I'm not saying I wouldn't try it because it doesn't make sense. I wouldn't try it because I think it is a phony product.
 
"100lbs heads" = heavy thinkers. Compliment...you're welcome.

Bull headedness...you guys are on your own as am I. Like I said for this topic, I'm eating popcorn and trying to be of some sort of help without becoming a lab rat. Bad / Fun enough doing the stuff I do as it is.

Thanks for the vocab clarifications. I thought that's what they were but wasn't 100% positive. I don't mind corrections either.

Turbovanman: If the shipping delay gets too long, let me know and I'll send this one to you and you can have them drop ship yours to me or return it in whatever shape its in after testing. Sometimes a good story is better than a pristine part.

Pictures.
I think the uneven lighting is a result of taking the shots under a dinning room lamp with six LED bulbs. It was a slight challenge getting the reflection off the caliper gauge.

All blade leading and outside edges are flat/squared off. No tapering to the leading edges. Probably a good thing as they would be like Cutco Knives otherwise. The machining at the base, sculpting more like, was and interesting effect. Didn't notice them when it was first listed but they are very evident on second look.

Maybe with all the clouds out today, I can take a video of it while I turn it ever so slowly on its axis?
 
Thanks for the offer Paul, :thumbsup:

I can wait, he's on Oregon, my mailbox is in Blaine, I can't go pick it up until next Sat anyhow.
 
He got the next batch of wheels and I'll be picking it up Saturday. I also bought an HX rebuild kit off him, not CHINESE junk but OE quality. Just scored some 95 heads, stock turbo and other doo dads locally for next to nothing. :thumbsup:
 
Paveltolz said:
"100lbs heads" = heavy thinkers. Compliment...you're welcome.

Bull headedness...you guys are on your own as am I. Like I said for this topic, I'm eating popcorn and trying to be of some sort of help without becoming a lab rat. Bad / Fun enough doing the stuff I do as it is.

Thanks for the vocab clarifications. I thought that's what they were but wasn't 100% positive. I don't mind corrections either.

Turbovanman: If the shipping delay gets too long, let me know and I'll send this one to you and you can have them drop ship yours to me or return it in whatever shape its in after testing. Sometimes a good story is better than a pristine part.

Pictures.
I think the uneven lighting is a result of taking the shots under a dinning room lamp with six LED bulbs. It was a slight challenge getting the reflection off the caliper gauge.

All blade leading and outside edges are flat/squared off. No tapering to the leading edges. Probably a good thing as they would be like Cutco Knives otherwise. The machining at the base, sculpting more like, was and interesting effect. Didn't notice them when it was first listed but they are very evident on second look.

Maybe with all the clouds out today, I can take a video of it while I turn it ever so slowly on its axis?
Click to expand...

Because I'm just a follower, I guess that makes me Lemming Speed Wrench:hihi:
 
6.5L said:
I'm not saying I wouldn't try it because it doesn't make sense. I wouldn't try it because I think it is a phony product.
Click to expand...

The Wicked Wheel doesn't solve the main problem with the GMx turbo's, is risky from the turbo blowing up while ruining things around it, and appears to be another "no load stoplight to stoplight" type of product.

While you are testing the WW out make sure you also track fuel economy. It would be interesting if it changes either way or stays the same.

The main problem of the GMx turbo's is getting the hot exhaust gas out of the engine. The mass of air stays the same from the intake through the exhaust. But the volume of the heated air is higher in the hot exhaust vs. the cold intake. Think of the scale of 100 degree intake air, 350 degree turbo discharge air, and 1500 EGT. Same mass moving but different volume. So you will benefit more by making changes to the exhaust side of things due to the volume of air moving being higher on the hot exhaust side (same mass of course). Off the cuff the same mass of air is moving 10 MPH in the intake but 100 MPH in the exhaust because it was heated up 1400 degrees. Someone else can do the real math as this is just an example to illustrate my point...

So your GMx turbo rolls over and plays dead around 2200 RPM because the drive pressure ratio is going up like crazy after this RPM. The exhaust has to bypass the exhaust wheel for more WOT RPM without overspeeding the turbo. Drive pressure to boost pressure reaches the RPM limit of the turbo around 14 PSI. Any more PSI is generated more by heating the air rather than moving it. The real problem with the GM turbo's is just getting the exhaust out of the engine without extreme drive pressures. Oh sure at low 6 PSI boost the drive pressure is ok, but, the 6.5/6.2 is a dog at that level. The WG supposedly only opens 1/16" per Heath Diesel - not a lot of free flowing exhaust...

The proof of any change would be from monitoring drive pressure vs. boost and IAT (after the compressor) before and after the compressor wheel change.

Changing out the compressor wheel with different blade count and pitch can help. You really need a turbo compressor map to compare to the factory turbo to see how to use the changed turbo. The new compressor wheel could help by heating the intake air less resulting in less waste heat in the system. But is isn't as much of a change being on the cold side as you can get by making the hot side more efficient. To do that you need a bigger hot side that is included in a bigger turbo.

The downside to less pitch is higher turbo RPM - it will blow up at a specific RPM range. More pitch means more load and drive pressure. The WG bypass is restrictive on the GMx stuff. I don't see a MPG win here. Maybe the WW compressor wheel is more efficient and I would stand with others as 'corrected'.

Looking at the pictures (billet being stronger than cast) of the hub section on the compressor wheel being a lot thinner in diameter than the factory diameter hub scares me. You see I have to run the 6.5 to the edge of destruction to haul a trailer up a 7-18% grade without being a rolling road block risking being rear ended hard. No easy 1/4 mile and it's over for me. These grades go for miles allowing things to get good and hot. The issue of turbo boost creep with altitude changes is a serious and real problem for me that I have had to adjust a turbo master over. Had to back it down to 12 PSI at 1000' to keep it under 15 PSI at 8600'. Yes the cherry red glow of the turbo exhaust section is something to see and make you think about the parts quality and balancing needed to handle it.

You are not likely to get the exhaust section red hot like that going 1/4 mile or stoplight to stoplight... I digress as I don't know your intended use and workload for the beast.
 
Got mine today and purdy. It should do as I/we thought. Its taller so more scoup of air per say, the thinner hub allows more blade surface area so again, more air and the piece de resistance, the exducer blade tips are extended, just like my HX40 wheel so again, more air to grab. Should be a clear winner but we'll soon find out. Will document readings before and after install, he's willing to hook up his trailer for testing. :thumbsup:
 
FWIW, I was on the phone with Bill and told him there was a guy marketing an upgraded wheel for the GM's and saying 'a Heath tune' will help loads. When I told him the name of the shop owner he expressed caution from previous dealings with the guy. I know the wheels are just marketed through him s I just thought I should pass it along as food for thought/caution.
 
Paveltolz said:
FWIW, I was on the phone with Bill and told him there was a guy marketing an upgraded wheel for the GM's and saying 'a Heath tune' will help loads. When I told him the name of the shop owner he expressed caution from previous dealings with the guy. I know the wheels are just marketed through him s I just thought I should pass it along as food for thought/caution.
Click to expand...

Funny, I called too, didn't get Bill but the other worker said they'd heard of him and didn't have any issues about him.

Kinda hard to have caution, he's selling a billet wheel, looks exactly like my HX40 wheel and its not like he's making them.
 
Well, gawd help me but curiosity got the better of me and I ordered one.

I'm a suspicious as heck, but 125 bucks isn't that big of a loss to explore it a bit.

I've got several GM8's up on the shelf so I'll pull one down off the shelf that I have with a known cracked compressor blade. Other wise its fine. Caught it before it did anything besides crack and it's been sitting on the shelf ever since. It needed a compressor wheel for it to ever be of use again, so this experiment kinda fits the bill.

The wheel will get LPI'd (liquid penetrant inspection) for cracks and eddy current inspected for voids in the material since it IS coming from eBay. No matter who makes it or sells it.

Then the compressor, shaft and turbine will go off to my builder for balancing.

At that point I can have some confidence that it isn't going to all come apart on me and roach some expensive parts downstream.

The turbine case will go out it for his usual "clean up" and alterations also.

Once it comes back I'll put it all together after my own personal "reworking".

Then, when time permits, the truck will head for the rollers and we'll see what we can get out of it with some recalibration work.

There are some aspects of the billet compressor wheel I like (from looks) and some I don't.

The extended tips promise less slip, which means I can dump the wastegate sooner. Good thing.

The blade angle looks like it has been reduced as it's been extended which often equates to better High Rpm performance. Another good thing.

That's all very over simplified, but good enough for discussion purposes until I get it in my hands for a more thorough examination and some measurements.

Compressors wheels are so freaking sensitive that even a thou of difference here or there makes big changes. This thing is seriously different than the original so even the RHC8 map I have probably means nothing.

Surge, choke, etc. All of it: different.

I just hate working without a compressor and turbine map to start from...time will tell if it works better or not I suppose.

I think I have a sickness, why can't I just stop working on this damned truck?

:rofl:

I'm pretty sure i know where the compressor wheels are coming from, but can't say 100% so I won't say at all. If the vendor confirms it and gives the "OK", I'll pass the info along.
 
turbovanman said:
Sweet, but honestly, I would leave the turbo alone except the compressor wheel. More of a true test.
Click to expand...

idk, if you and Paveltolz run it in stock housing for a direct comparison, it might not be bad to see how much more it helps to clean up the inside maybe.

I would love to see the what you turbo genius types could do with my centermount gm6 to help the above 2800 rpm range, so I'm still hanging on every word...:bigear:
 
Will L. said:
idk, if you and Paveltolz run it in stock housing for a direct comparison, it might not be bad to see how much more it helps to clean up the inside maybe.

I would love to see the what you turbo genius types could do with my centermount gm6 to help the above 2800 rpm range, so I'm still hanging on every word...:bigear:
Click to expand...

I have a few idea's but not sure if anyone would test them, :nonod:

I should be putting the wheel on either tomorrow or next week at the lastest.

great white said:
Nope.

I'm not looking to "test" anything.

I'm looking to improve a system.
Click to expand...

Fine.
 
Will L. said:
idk, if you and Paveltolz run it in stock housing for a direct comparison, it might not be bad to see how much more it helps to clean up the inside maybe.

I would love to see the what you turbo genius types could do with my centermount gm6 to help the above 2800 rpm range, so I'm still hanging on every word...:bigear:
Click to expand...

Go here: http://ktsturbobilletx.com/?page_id=1370

Download the catalog and look at line 714 in the excel spreadsheet the download link gives you.

Not sure what gains it might give you, but KTS is not exactly an unknown name when it comes to billet wheels. Same with Kamak (Taiwan), who i had hoped had built the wheels we are taking about in this thread. I'm still trying to find out who "Billit Specialists" is....

"Extended tips" are intended to broaden the compressor map. Meaning: they push surge and choke further out. It was pioneered by BW and you typically don't see ETT in add hype from reputable builders that aren't BW, even though they may have copied it. Likely to avoid litigation.

The extended inducer often promises broader efficiency islands.

As long as the compressor is designed properly that is.

If you're not hitting surge with the OEM turbo, then these "billit" units aren't going to be much help. Where the gains will come from is the broader efficiency islands. Be aware though: the gains typically seen in efficiency are usually small when comparing maps. Every so often though, they hit it out of hte park. But those are not usually $125 replacements.....

Anyone can spin out a compressor wheel with what looks like extended tip technology and a longer inducer. Whether or not it's designed correctly is the question. Often, a couple thou will make the difference between hero and zero on compressor design....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top