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Here's my plan

haggus

haggus

Member
Messages
220
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5
Location
Sooke BC
I have been gathering some parts for my 6.5 TD.
Here's what I have so far:

New Injectors and glow plugs with installation kit
ATA Intercooler DIY kit
Some front end parts ball joints etc
2.5 crossover pipe
GMTD Scan Tech
FTB mod

Here's what I'm going to add (Kennedy):
Towing tune
Fan Clutch
Turbo Master
Kennedy lift pump
Phazer Gear timing set

In the future I might look at a WMI setup

I would also like to put in new head gaskets while I'm tearing the upper intake apart anyway. I have to take some vacation days from work so I want to basically work on my truck while I'm home the kids will be in school and I will be able to just work on it.

My question is do you see anything I'm really missing that I should add to this list. I primarily use this truck for towing a fifth wheel about 7000 lbs loaded. Usually short trips around Vancouver Island around 2-3 hours one way. Towing up the Malahat right now is possible but slow with EGT rising to 1100 deg F up 8% grade and speed falling below 40 MPH. I know these diesels aren't the greatest but I'm hoping to get lower EGT and maybe hold 40 MPH up grade w/o having to back off the throttle to lower EGT. I don't mind spending some money it's still cheaper than a new truck.
 
phazer set is pretty cool. I had a set for mine.....:smile5: I always used heath for what I needed....
 
hereismylife said:
phazer set is pretty cool. I had a set for mine.....:smile5: I always used heath for what I needed....
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I would go with Heath but he ships UPS. UPS charges obscene brokerage fees when shipping to Canada as high as 20% of the purchase price. That means what I will be saving I could get a fluidampr for my truck.
 
haggus said:
I would go with Heath but he ships UPS. UPS charges obscene brokerage fees when shipping to Canada as high as 20% of the purchase price. That means what I will be saving I could get a fluidampr for my truck.
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Boy, I hear ya, Haggus. If it only cost 20% of the purchase price, it wouldn't bother me. I have had the mystery UPS "Brokerage Fee" come to 68% (no kidding, that's the worst one) of purchase price on network equipment, but usually between 20% and 50%.

If you call Bill Heath, John Kennedy, Bill Gomer with US Dieselparts, and DEFINITELY any of our vendors here on TTS and explain that, they will make sure shipping is pre-defined (through whatever carrier) and that you get to decide. Bill sent my injectors through FedEx, and it wasn't bad at all. I've also had others send through USPS... even with full insurance and tracking, it's cheak compared to UPS.

If a vendor (ANY vendor) refuses to ship through other companies (Only UPS), they should get used to the fact that Canadians just won't buy from them.

Walt Lataki at SSDieselSupply is about the only guy I've ever met that wouldn't understand that. Therefore, I won't buy from him. Ever.
 
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think about freeing up the exhaust, mine is stright piped but not loud at all. K47 filter with the street pipe elbow will help incoming air. look at the damper if not replaced lately.
 
More things to consider:

While you have stuff apart, think about glow plugs. (especially if you're going to do the extended time mod) If yours are already changed to Duraterms or AC-60g, you'll be fine with those.

How many miles on your injectors?

Check out your crankshaft harmonic balancer while you're in there.

Oh yeah, you're OBD-I ... you can do the TCC mod. That will help with temps quite a bit when towing.
 
JiFaire said:
More things to consider:

While you have stuff apart, think about glow plugs. (especially if you're going to do the extended time mod) If yours are already changed to Duraterms or AC-60g, you'll be fine with those.

How many miles on your injectors?

Check out your crankshaft harmonic balancer while you're in there.

Oh yeah, you're OBD-I ... you can do the TCC mod. That will help with temps quite a bit when towing.
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I have the glow plugs and injectors I need the injectors pop-tested and I'm going to get a new gp harness while I'm at it. I'm not sure of the Km on the injectors the truck has 260k Km it was a work truck and the maintenance looks to pretty well done. As for the HB I was thinking of going with a fluidampr. I'm not sure about a TCC mod I thought that a new tune would improve towing.
Thanks
 
New tune from Kennedy? I don't think he does too much with the TCC, but I'm honestly not sure; some tuners do. I agree with waiting until after, though... you can always do it later if you need it.

The fluidampr is a good idea; not sure what the delivery time is on those right now, but Leroy (BurningOil) would be the guy to ask. He shipped one to BJ (Great White) not too long ago. Don't forget, there are 2 balancers. Check while you're down there - there's no better time to inspect stuff.

If you're looking for a new GP harness, you might want to try sending a note to Bruce (RaceDayMechanic) ... he builds amazing harnesses.
 
I've been doing some reading and if I go all the way for HG replacement I must remove the IP. I guess the electronic pump needs to be re-aligned with a specific tool for installation and then tdc needs to be reset. Is this difficult to do w/o the tool. I have GMCTD Scan tech so as long as I align at TDC I should be able to do the TDC learn and set it from there. I really don't know if I need a new HG right now but I figured a new felpro HG would be good if I raise the boost levels to around 10-15 psi as I plan to do.
 
if you are using the haynes/chilton diesel repair book ignore the part about removing the pump. iirc that was only the 5.7l diesel that you had to do that on. Spend the money and get the ARP studs if you do the gaskets, well worth the money
 
1995yukon65 said:
if you are using the haynes/chilton diesel repair book ignore the part about removing the pump. iirc that was only the 5.7l diesel that you had to do that on. Spend the money and get the ARP studs if you do the gaskets, well worth the money
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Yeah it was a Haynes manual. I was thinking of going with studs but I've never used them before. Where are people buying them? Do any of the local vendors have them I know Heath sells them.
 
I've pulled the malahat several times in my 98 and the 35 foot 8500lb travel trailer. Around 900-1000 and 90kph up, little slower coming down. The malahat is really kind of a small bump out there, 1100 and under 40 mph isn't very encouraging.

Heres how my truck was set up:

599 block, 350 000 + kms and lots of blowby.
Heath program - all around program with "hill decent"
Heath turbo master
4" diamond eye exhaust
Devils own water injection
New (nos) injectors
Fluidamper

That combo was good for the numbers I listed above.

Unfortunately, it died on the Snowqualimine pass.

With the new Optimizer and high flow water pump, it pulled everything from vantage and fourth of July pass to Lookout pass (Lookout is a biotch!) lowest speed 45mph usually closer to 50-55mph, 950-1000f with water injection 1000-1100f without water injection and coolant temps around 210-215. Lots of throttle was still available and it would go faster, but the egt's would also go up past where I was comfortable and self limiting the throttle and driving the egt/ect guages was the best choice.

Flat running doesn't even break a sweat until about 70mph and anything driving 55mph and less is just cannon fodder. You get some strange looks from cummins and powerstroke drivers as you motor by in an old 6.5 and a huge trailer behind. Gotta love a fresh block!

;)

I dont want to "cheerlead" Heath, but his products are good stuff. He will ship USPS if you ask.

I also got my fluidamper from jegsmand they shipped it fedex. I went that way because they had one in stock and gave the the shipping quote (including fedex brokerage) on the phone up front.

I bought my exhaust off the bay, was 300 bucks and I paid ups 65 bucks in brokerage fees on top of shipping.

There's really no rhyme or reason to the ups charges, it seems you pay whatever some pee'd off employee decides you pay that day....
 
Head studs are stronger,,, and you need to replace the head bolts anyway, as they stretch and won't give you good accurate torque figures on the rebuild. So going with a tune and turbo master, you won't have to be scared your going to blow the heads off the thing with too much boost.
 
I've pulled the malahat several times in my 98 and the 35 foot 8500lb travel trailer. Around 900-1000 and 90kph up, little slower coming down. The malahat is really kind of a small bump out there, 1100 and under 40 mph isn't very encouraging.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's always been pretty disappointing towing on any grade my EGT and ECT go high quickly. I'm only getting about 7psi max out of my GM-4 turbo I have the 4" DE exhaust with the S&B intake to open it up. I'm pretty sure fan clutch is toast tried to mod and it still won't kick in at all. I cleaned the outside of the rad this summer but maybe I need a cleaning on the inside as well. I'm also wondering if the crossover is restricted. I intend to replace it anyway. If Heath ships USPS I would order from him he is much closer than kennedy and his prices are the same or close enough to make the purchase. I just won't use UPS from the US.
 
Assuming your rotating assembly is healthy, here's where I would suggest you spend your dough on and in order of importance;

1. Have the rad cleaned at a rad shop (they immerse it in a cleaning solution)

2. A 9 blade or dmax fan and a hd clutch

3. Upgrade the water pump (if you haven't already)

4. new stock injectors (if you havent already done them)

5. Heath Turbo master (especially if going with heath flash) or crank your "home made"up to a max of 12-ish psi.

6. Reprogramed ECM. I went with Heath, works well enough but that doesn't mean other sellers don't do a good job too. Biggest advantage Heath has is they rework the transmission program to work in concert with the engine program.

The thing about Heath is you have to call him and tell him how you plan to use the truck rather than what to put in the program (ie: daily driver/weekend towing, etc).

I've never used kennedy's stuff, so I can't tell you how well (or not) it works.

Then, you just have to drive by the ECT and egt gauges instead of the speedo...
 
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