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Here's my plan

Well I got the GP and harness changed out finally in total time it probably took 4- 6 hours. I'm SOL with the injectors so far I can't find the socket. I think the local Snap-on guy has one I will try him tomorrow. New front shocks are going in tomorrow. I have the water HO water pump and fan clutch sitting in the garage just need time. I am still looking at a tune and I have the parts for the TCC mod waiting as well.
 
I was told a 30mm deep socket is all you need.

I purchased one years ago on flee bay, I have yet put it too use.

Wish you luck! :thumbsup:
 
The correct Kent Moore socket makes all the difference in the world. Beg \ borrow \ steal, do whatever to get one. Makes the passenger side almost tolerable:thumbsup:
 
I could make a suggestion on free shipping. I have been thinking about having heath change my (his) horsepower tune to a towing tune. It's only a 400 mile round trip from here. You could ask heath about me picking it up and swapping my present tune for the towing tune. Don't know the cost of that. If you ask him and let me know then I could pick up your ecm from him, bring it over the border and COD it to you from here. Won't be any duty or brokerage fees this way. Just need to know how much he'd charge for swapping ecm's for me and coordinate things from there between the 3 of us. Ed
 
Ok so I have the new GP and harness in while I was there I changed the FFM filter and the racor 2 micron pre filter. I used a jumper to pump fuel until it came out the FFM vent. I get in the truck and go to start it. First no WTS light not that unusual after the battery has been disconnected. I crank it over she turns but no start. After about 15s I turn the key off the LP continues too run for another 30s not too sure why. I tried to start 4-5 times no success I figure put it away for now come ask you guys what you think. So I'm sipping a rum and coke and I will check back for some answers from the pros.

Thanks

Haggus
 
Crack an injector line and see if you are getting fuel. Did it run before? Knock loose any IP connectors?
 
how much air could get trapped after opening the fuel lines and how hard should it be to bleed it off.
 
When I changed my fuel filter setup (see sig) I had to run the LP and crack the IP inlet line a few times to bleed the air.

It finally cranked after the third time I did it, but was still nailing till the IP was able to self bleed the rest of the air out. I just let it idle for about 5 minutes till it cleared up.
 
Ok

So apparently it is a case of RTFM on my part. I found a drawing in my Haynes book of all places and one over at the diesel place which kind of sorted out what I did wrong. The orange/orange black wires go to the old glow plug harness and both harness go the left lug on the controller the power wire this should have been obvious is the red wire on the right terminal. Anyway the wiring diagram makes it pretty clear for me. It all became after my third rum and coke last night.


@4thesporty thx I will check it a couple of more times to bleed any more air off.


Thanks

Rankin
 

Attachments

  • GlowPlug_DTC_Diagram.pdf
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So it took a few more cranks to get the old girl going. She would almost catch sputter then die Glo Plug controller is doing it's thing no more white smoke when she turned over and it ran really well after the first start. My old FFM filter was pretty black and cosidering that the element is white when you put it in, I guess it was a while since it had been changed. The old glow plug were Bosch but looked black and scorched. I haven't tested them yet but the way the truck starts now probably means that some of them were bad.
 
Ok so I'm home now for a while. It's time to start working on my truck.

The next phase is the new water pump D-Max fan and Hayden Severe duty clutch install.

parts 1.jpg
parts 2.jpg
Today I started with removing some parts upper lower fan shroud pulled the fan-clutch. Removed front grill and drained and flushed old coolant.
water pump 1.jpg


Degreased the area I'm working organized my new parts. Then hit the bolts with some penetrating oil.
water pump 2.jpg

I also have some new front shocks that may get done depending on how much time I have right now.
 
Today I removed the brackets that hold the AC , vac, and power sterring pump. I got the rad hoses out of the way except the lower hose where the expansion tank connects to the tee it's on there like a mother. If I have to cut it I'll just get some rubber hose and clamps from the local auto store. Removed the old water pump without much trouble and cleaned it up as well as getting off the old gasket. I cleaned the block too. Had to double nut the old water pump studs to get them out and into the new water pump.

I looked at the old pump it does not look much different from the new one I purchased, except that the new one has HO stamped on it and the pump wheel looks slightly different. The chambers and even the gasket are the same. My old t-stat looks different as well I asked for AC Delco they gave me a Stant will this make any difference I am not sure.

Tomorrow I start the reassembly. Hopefully I can get it finished before Sunday I am thinking I might just be the slowest mechanic ever. I have considered another option. That the designer of this engine might have been a submarine diesel electric engineer it shares a lot in common you don't need too many different wrenches 10-17mm and your basically covered. Also it's a PITA to work on for the most part disassembly goes smoothly but there is always 1-2 nuts or bolts that you look at and go really WTF were they thinking putting that right there behind something else.

Anyway more pics after I get some time to upload them.
 
My old t-stat looks different as well I asked for AC Delco they gave me a Stant will this make any difference I am not sure.
Click to expand...




DO NOT USE THE STANT T-STAT...........Only use a Delco or a Robert Shaw 180*-195* (Your choice)

It's been proven that only OEM T Stats function properly in the 6.5 cooling system.

"Search T-Stat"........Read it for yourself.
 
Ok I can run back to the parts store and either get the right one or go to the dealer. I wasn't any issues with the old one should I reuse it if I have too?



Brooklyn Tow said:




DO NOT USE THE STANT T-STAT...........Only use a Delco or a Robert Shaw 180*-195* (Your choice)

It's been proven that only OEM T Stats function properly in the 6.5 cooling system.

"Search T-Stat"........Read it for yourself.
Click to expand...
 
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