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Here's my plan

I did get an ACDelco stat. Well I did not finish today. The new front shocks are in and the water pump is back on. All the brackets and and hoses are back on. I need to mod the fan enclosure to accept the new D-Max fan as it rubs just slightly. Then fill up the system with coolant and give it a test.

I pulled the grille just to make sure it was still clean everything looked good. Noticed a few more items that might get looked at soon. Mid May I'm getting new BFG AT and the front end parts I have in the shop are going to get installed. Front brakes are on the horizon soon as the pads are almost done new rotors too.
 
If the fan rubs take a look at the engine mounts- they may be bad and letting the engine sag a bit.
 
Guster said:
If the fan rubs take a look at the engine mounts- they may be bad and letting the engine sag a bit.
Click to expand...

I could look at them I don't think that is the problem. The D-Max fan is larger than the stock fan and I'll only be removing a couple mm for the clearance I need.
 
The new water pump is in and the engine started right up no leaks. It sounded like it idled lower more of a rumble sound than before. I took it out for a drive to work temps stayed right where they should be around 85 deg celsius.

I started noticing a little hesitation like it was starving for fuel. I had trouble starting the truck several hours later. On the way home it was much worse had to nurse it back home but the temps remained good. It reallly seemed to stumble under load which makes me thinks lift pump. That I will check tomorrow. Also CEL came on around 80 Km/h let of the pedal it went out so GMTDScan will be in order to check for codes.


I just changed the filters I have two the FFM and a racor 2 micron pre-filter. I was planning on putting in a fuel pressure gauge and walbro pump so if it is the lift pump I'll be getting to that sooner then planned. I have to get it sorted before May long weekend I plan to go camping and do not want a fuel starved engine slowing me down.
 
I have a new problem I found my fuel leaks and fixed them. However I rean the truck up and was still getting liquid in the engine valley underneath the intake. I was starting to think my entire fuel system would get replaced. I used compressed air and dried out everything I could.

Start the truck and see liquid in the valley. WTF where is it coming from wipe some on my finger give it a smell it is not fuel it is antifreeze. Look forward with a light track it down to the heater hose connection. Do some research see this a common failure. Get a ACDelco replacement and take my 27mm deep socket put it on the old one and snap it parts right at the housing.

I read this is to be expected grab my 1/2 easy out and try to turn the remaining piece out. Well am not weak but I do not posses the strength of a god either. This muther won't turn I am rocking an entire K2500 backwards. I am no rocket scientist but I know that much torque is going to break something. I used heat no luck. Looking at the job I figure there are only a few options

1. I take off the thermostat housing from the block put it in a vice and use the biggest bar I can find and see what gives.

2. I take off the t-stat housing bring it to my local auto shop and let him do it.

3. I buy a new housing

4. Buy a 1/2 NPT tap remove the t-stat housing and try to tap the old piece

If someone has a better idea I would love to hear it I sprayed it down with penetrating fluid I will let it sit overnight and try the easy out tool again.
 
I've removed them before they're broken by heating up the housing and icing the fitting. also if you're using the spiral type easy out you run a very high risk of splitting the housing, if you have access to a pipe type easyout I'd try that. last resort is to take a hacksaw blade and cut thru the remaining fitting from the inside out trying to not cut anymore than you have to
 
ak diesel driver said:
I've removed them before they're broken by heating up the housing and icing the fitting. also if you're using the spiral type easy out you run a very high risk of splitting the housing, if you have access to a pipe type easyout I'd try that. last resort is to take a hacksaw blade and cut thru the remaining fitting from the inside out trying to not cut anymore than you have to
Click to expand...

X 2 I have been there also. Had to do the last resort. It was painful.
 
I was going to get some pipe style removers tomorrow. Right now I was using a spiral type extractor and agree that it seems to be applying more stress than I want to apply. The hacksaw thing is a last resort I would remove it and take it to a shop and have them remove it.

For a part that basically seperated with very little force I can not believe how hard the rest of it to get out.

Thanks for the reply
.
 
ak diesel driver said:
if you're using the spiral type easy out you run a very high risk of splitting the housing, if you have access to a pipe type easyout I'd try that. last resort is to take a hacksaw blade and cut thru the remaining fitting from the inside out trying to not cut anymore than you have to
Click to expand...
I split my housing with the easy out spiral. I was easy out the $ for the replacement part off E-Bay. The Hack saw method was detailed by Missy Goodwrench and others.
Make several cuts, pick the chunks out, work with it.

Patience is the key, I failed, it cost me. Learn from others.
 
It is all fixed used the last resort method to remove the quick connect. It was a PITA and cut into the housing threads some. Used some rtv on the new fitting and snugged it up all is dry. I did end up removing the cross connect housing to do the job just too much in the way to do it on the truck.

Up to this point I have completed most of the mods with the exception of the gear drive, head gaskets, and studs. The new tune is paid for and is being shipped should have it this week.

Took the truck for a drive today and I must say I am impressed the only DTC that GMTDScantech had was 78 wastegate solenoid so I purchased one from the dealer and all of a sudden the boost is a lot more responsive. Probably improve some mpg once I stop stomping on the throttle.

Leroy at pmdcable sells some good equipment his OPS ext works as advertised also I threw in the relay mod and cleaned the upper grounds while everything was apart. The walbro pump seems to work well I only have a fuel press gauge to read in the engine compartment at the moment. Need to add one in the cab but it can wait for the moment. Scantech showed 8.12 mm³ fuel flow at idle at with the throttle down never dropped much below 4mm³. The truck starts better and has no white smoke at all. PMDcable is great to deal with and his shipping is reasonable also he takes time to help if you ask. I know I will add a MFSU and oil cooler kit from there in the future.

Still debating the ATA intercooler I have it in the garage I will wait too see how the new tune affects the truck before adding that.

Still have to hook up the trailer to see how the cooling system is working. The new HO pump and D-Max flan seem to keep the truck coolant temp right around 197 deg F.

At this point I think I have more money in the truck than what I paid for it. For now I don't want to work on it for a while.
 
Spoke too soon FFM o-ring looks like it is leaking just a few drops but still not fixed time to call the dealer. I was told only stock on these is in U.S looks like I am back to no truck. Maybe I'll just pull the o-ring and get a matched one. Not very happy at the moment this truck is trying my patience.
 
Dealer will have new o-rings tmorrow. I tightened up on the platsic ring that holds the heater about 1/8 of an inch and the leak is stopped again but for how long. I will have to keep on eye on it. Damn I would like to let my hands return to their normal colour and heal some.
 
Last edited:
ak diesel driver said:
check with leroy
Click to expand...

Leroy is the man I may refer to him before my dealer from now on.

The truck runs great again I took some empties in for my kids I save them and donate them for sports. So I am at the return place and see a small amount of liquid dripping from the passenger side. I think now what is leaking turns out to be the new lower rad hose I guess quality control must have been on lunch because the clamp was loose. First time I ever had an issue with a delco part. No big deal I keep some clamps in the tool box in the back I throw one on and leak is gone.

Just waiting for the new tune to arrive.

The paln after that will be the following:

New tires

Phazer gear drive

Fluidamper pulley

head studs and gaskets

front brake pads and rotors.

ATT

I need a second job because the first three are going to set 2k and the last 3 are about 1300

Hopefully I can talk the kids out of College or University:hihi:
 
Well along with new tires I wanted new rims was looking for PYO of a 02 or later but I came across a set of Mag Turbine rims that were just so cheap I couldn't pass them up. They need work not just sure how I am going to do them I could paint them same color as the truck. Try and polish them up which is probably going to involve having them blasted. Maybe have them chromed or powder coated.

Anyone have experience with aluminium polishing and recommend some products or methods I would love to hear them. I'm going to do the google search see what is out there.
 
haggus said:
Well along with new tires I wanted new rims was looking for PYO of a 02 or later but I came across a set of Mag Turbine rims that were just so cheap I couldn't pass them up. They need work not just sure how I am going to do them I could paint them same color as the truck. Try and polish them up which is probably going to involve having them blasted. Maybe have them chromed or powder coated.

Anyone have experience with aluminium polishing and recommend some products or methods I would love to hear them. I'm going to do the google search see what is out there.
Click to expand...

Well I found the PYO rims from a guy with an 03. This truck must have barely been driven the rims were in such good shape they looked practically brand new. Picked up some Michelin LT M+S that are stock size. I really like the new tires over the BFGs much smoother ride way less road noise.

Next step is going to do some de-badging get rid of the faded pinstripes and start getting her ready for some bodywork and paint.

IMG_tool.jpg

IMG_badge.jpg

IMG_pin2.jpg
 
haggus said:
Well along with new tires I wanted new rims was looking for PYO of a 02 or later but I came across a set of Mag Turbine rims that were just so cheap I couldn't pass them up. They need work not just sure how I am going to do them I could paint them same color as the truck. Try and polish them up which is probably going to involve having them blasted. Maybe have them chromed or powder coated.

Anyone have experience with aluminium polishing and recommend some products or methods I would love to hear them. I'm going to do the google search see what is out there.
Click to expand...

Well I found the PYO rims from a guy with an 03. This truck must have barely been driven the rims were in such good shape they looked practically brand new. Picked up some Michelin LT M+S that are stock size. I really like the new tires over the BFGs much smoother ride way less road noise.

Next step is going to do some de-badging get rid of the faded pinstripes and start getting her ready for some bodywork and paint.

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