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Help a Brother Out #2

In the words of tom petty...."the waiting is the hardest part..
At least there coming though thanks to y'all..( and my wife's credit card lol) shhhh...
I cleaned some of the grounds, past couple days.. and finally got the tranny pan gasket changed so it would quit leaking.. tranny fluid gets expensive quick..... When I dropped the pan I was careful to catch the fluid..(not to reuse) I wanted to see how the fluid looked since putting that tranny in.. and to see in the pan if there was any debris.... A little dust stuff.. not a major amount....so that's good at least..
 
While I'm waiting for the parts to get here.... Holy crap as I was righting this Fed ex literally just dropped of a box...it's the calipers, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder....lol... Shipping order says the hoses are in other box. so gotta wait for that to get here still...and still gotta get brake shoes and pads...and gotta get the bleeder and brake tools.. But while I wait, how much brake fluid should I buy to refill the whole system?? And what's the tricks to doing the master cylinder? I know you have to fill it on the bench and get air out of it..but want to make sure I do this right.
 
Stoney said:
While I'm waiting for the parts to get here.... Holy crap as I was righting this Fed ex literally just dropped of a box...it's the calipers, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder....lol... Shipping order says the hoses are in other box. so gotta wait for that to get here still...and still gotta get brake shoes and pads...and gotta get the bleeder and brake tools.. But while I wait, how much brake fluid should I buy to refill the whole system?? And what's the tricks to doing the master cylinder? I know you have to fill it on the bench and get air out of it..but want to make sure I do this right.
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Get 3 big bottles. You can return the unopened. I know / heard of a guy that kicked a whole bottle over once. He was glad he had extra.
 
This is going to sound like a dumb question.. I just opened it the calipers to make sure there was a right side and left side one... Which there are.. but they look a little more heavy duty and maybe a little wider than the ones to AutoZone sold me... Y'all think there's any chance that possibly AutoZone was selling me ones for a single rear wheel or would they not bolt up if that had happened??
 
it is possible! or they sold you chineese aftermarket copies. when you get the old ones off send soem pics of both to compare.. expecially the opening where the pads go. I'm betting that area will be slightly narrower on the crapy-zone ones!
 
Ok I guess I need to take that wire off.. I put one on it a long time ago when I was chasing ground problems..I just grounded everything I could think of at the time... I had the hood up to plug it in when I got home tonight and saw the wire and couldn't remember what it went to so I looked and saw it going to the alternator.. then got thinking that not long ago someone was talking about adding grounds and said not to do it to the alternator..
 
Stoney said:
Ok I guess I need to take that wire off.. I put one on it a long time ago when I was chasing ground problems..I just grounded everything I could think of at the time... I had the hood up to plug it in when I got home tonight and saw the wire and couldn't remember what it went to so I looked and saw it going to the alternator.. then got thinking that not long ago someone was talking about adding grounds and said not to do it to the alternator..
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I dont know that it would harm anything. I was always to the thinking that the alternator is grounded to the block already, what harm could one more ground cause ? 🤷‍♂️
To the block that is.
 
Stoney said:
I had it grounded straight to the battery. I went out and took it off..
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Yeah, if that would cause a problem I know knottt.
If I was going to run an additional ground to the alternator, or any other electricals, I would hook it to the negative battery cable where it hooks to the engine.
If I was going to hook an additional ground to the frame, I would hook that to that same battery cable ground on the engine then to the frame any place.
If it looked like the nevative battery cable stud on the engine was getting over loaded, then hook the additional grounds to any of the studs along the intake manifold.
At least thats My opinion and I have never had a problem with electronics hooking things in that manner.
 
Stoney said:
I had it grounded straight to the battery. I went out and took it off..
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Good call to take it off.

Was me and maybe some others mentioned Ground Loops.

So the skimpy wire from the "noisy" alternator to the battery ground is a ground loop...

Alternators make noise. The engine block dampens it out. An antenna via a ground wire added can transmit it's electrical noise. Explicit example OnStar is bad about picking noise up and coming through the OnStar system.

I assume it wasn't the same size as the battery cable. Maybe it can handle the full output of the alternator.

Hit the high amp draw starter and everything changes. The current in the big cables is enough that electricity looks for other ways to the battery and takes the little wires you added. Add some corrosion to the big battery cable grounds and the little wire you added may get hot.

Bolt falls off the engine on that battery's ground cable and now you have 1000A wanting to go through the added wire. IF the glow plug cycle didn't smoke it off before the starter has a go at it.
 
I would always say just beef up the factory grounds not adding little ones. also beef up the pos lead from the alternator as well. iirc pt wire solutions and a few others sell a complete battery cable harness that has the beefed up alternator lead plus heavier cable between batteries and to the starter.
 
Yeah he does.. and as a bonus he has a power bleeder..he's the one that helped me get the tranny in..gotta go get brake shoes and pads... I know I've asked before but which ones do I get? And any particular brake fluid?
 
ACDelco, Wagner, Raybestos.

The in house ceramic is garbage. Semi metallic stops better than ceramic I find. I have a really deserved HATE toward Autozone Duracrap as one of their pads came off the backing plate and trashed one of the last USA cast rotors I could get. The excitement pumping the brakes when that happened and then knocking the studs out again for another rotor...
 
on the shoes, your's is most likely the 3 1/2" wide ones. if you drive to Carquest, try to get the riveted ones not the glued shoes. you'll also need to pickup a spring kit for the rear

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upon tear down it makes things much eaiser when clean. take a water hose and spray down the shoe assemblies, then take photos before taking off the springs. also check the brake cables before re-installing. just as a temporary thing, if the cables are frozen just remove them from the shoe and pull them out, mark each one left and right and keep them aside. later you can measure their length and order new ones. the brakes will work just fine without them you just won't have a parking brake.

some trucks use a brake band around the driveshaft and don't have cables to the shoes. that might be an option for you later to install if you don't want to tear into it again to re-install cables.
 
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