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Heavy Duty Serpentine Belt For Duramax

RI Chevy Silveradoman

RI Chevy Silveradoman

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Just curious, but does anyone use the HD version of the serpentine belt for a replacement for their Duramax? Most companies make a regular version and a HD version. I was thinking of upgrading to the HD version.
 
At the point when I could no longer deal with the original squealing 82K belt, I just went with the standard version Goodyear Gatorback 4061195. So far so good.
 
I'm in need of a replacement belt since I still am running the factory one. There's a major maint. day (or 2) in my near future.
 
Thanks Jeff! When I'm ready to order all the stuff I'll certainly check into the HD one. Seems like the right thing to do. In fact, once I put the list of things I'm going to do together, I'll post it up and ask for opinions/how tos.
 
Piece of Cake to change. :thumbsup:

How to Change a Serpentine Belt on a Duramax
By Christian Killian, eHow Contributor
updated: June 6, 2010

The Duramax diesel engine is a 6.6-liter engine used in the Chevy trucks with a production run from 2001 and is currently still in use. The serpentine belt drive system on the front of the engine turns all the accessories on the engine and has a spring-loaded tensioner to keep the belt tight. The engine has a reputation for durability and reliability as well as being a stout workhorse. Any home mechanic can change the belt in about an hour and save himself a costly repair bill from a repair shop.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:
• Wrench set
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar

1. Open the hood of your truck and locate the negative battery terminal on the battery. Remove the retaining bolt that secures the negative battery cable to the battery using a wrench, then remove
the cable. Set it aside for now.

2. Locate the tensioner on the front of the engine. It is on the passenger side front of the engine. There is a hole in the arm of the tensioner. This hole will accept a ½-inch drive breaker bar.
There is a small black pulley on the end of the arm, making it easier to identify.

3. Insert a ½-inch drive breaker bar in the hole on the tensioner and rotate the tensioner counterclockwise until the belt is loose. Remove the belt from the engine and discard it.
Slowly rotate the tensioner back to the home position and allow it to sit there while you install the new belt on all the pulleys except the tensioner pulley.

4. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise, then install the belt onto the tensioner pulley. Slowly rotate the tensioner clockwise. Do not let it snap back or you will damage the tensioner.
Once the belt is tight, remove the breaker bar from the tensioner and out of the engine compartment.

5. Install the negative battery cable on the negative terminal of the battery, install the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench. Close the hood and drive as you normally would,
rechecking the belt in a few days.

References
• "Chevy 3500HD Factory Service Manual"; General Motors Corporation; 2007

Read Next Article

Read more: How to Change a Serpentine Belt on a Duramax | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6593973_change-serpentine-belt-duramax.html#ixzz1AGsHlBwk
 
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Actually I was referring to all the OTHER things I'm planning... But that's certainly helpful advice.
EGR block and FS, PCV reroute, coolant change, etc. At the same time I'll be doing upper ball joints, shocks, air filter, and anything else I think of that's due at 150k
 
If you have a CARQUEST nearby, buy the GATES green stripe from them. It will be the same price as everybody else, but CARQUEST offers a lifetime customer satisfaction warranty on them. If it ever squeels, shreds, or breaks from normal wear, they will replace it free of charge. I now run them exclusively as I got tired of GOODYEAR and sprigfield belts chirping after a week or 2 of use.
 
So there is a Carquest in the next town over. I'll go get the Gates green belt. Does anyone think I should replace the tensioner and/or the idler while I'm at it? Nothing wrong with them so far...
 
If you have no problems with them, then IMO I would leave them alone. I put off doing my belt since I thought it would be a real pain, but turned out to be a 10 minute job with my 12 year old son under the truck guiding the belt in the right place. Later that day replaced the alternator and it eve went more quickly. Since they are so easy to do, I would wait until the tensioner goes and not worry about it. I saw my neighbors go at 60K, while I sold my truck at over 120K and no problems.
 
Wow, I am surprised. If you go to NAPA on line, and put in your truck year and engine, they offer a few different options. Gates makes a HD belt and there are a couple of others. What alternator do you have? 105 amp or 145 amp?
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
Wow, I am surprised. If you go to NAPA on line, and put in your truck year and engine, they offer a few different options. Gates makes a HD belt and there are a couple of others. What alternator do you have? 105 amp or 145 amp?
Click to expand...
Well.....I don't know. Is there an RPO code that will tell me that? I guess I could dig out the window sticker. Seems like all of the Diesels would be 145 amps with 2 batteries and all.
 
I'd sure like to know that myself before I go get (or order) one. I can look tomorrow when I dig out the window sticker I guess...
 
you can get the good years at Amazon fairly cheap

here is the belt #'s for Goodyear Gatorback belts for 2001(only) model trucks 2002 and newer LB7's are different

4061115 with 105 amp alternator

4061125 with 130 amp alternator
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Gates belts #'s for 2001 are as follows...

K061115 105 amp alternator
K061123 130 amp alternator
(I don't know if you can get the HD/green stripe belt for these or not)
=======================================================================

Here is the part #'s for 2002-2006 GatorBack

4061175 105 amp alternator (without vacuum pump)
4061182 105 amp with vacuum pump or 145 amp alternator (also for 2006 LLY & LBZ )
4061360 with dual 105 amp alternators (also for 2006 LLY & LBZ with duals)
4081369 with dual 105 amp alternators with vacuum pump

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gates Part #'s for 2002-2006

K061177 With 105 Amp Alternator - Without Vacuum Pump
K061187 With 105 Amp Alternator - With Vacuum Pump available as K061187HD
K061195 With 145 Amp Alternator - With Vacuum Pump available as K061195HD (also for 2006 LLY & LBZ )
K061360 With Dual 105 Amp Alternators - Without Vacuum Pump available as K061360HD
K061369 With Dual 105 Amp Alternators - With Vacuum Pump (also for 2006 LLY & LBZ with duals)


note: LLY & LBZ came standard with the 145 amp alternator

disclaimer: double check these part #'s before ordering...
 
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Heartbeat Hauler said:
Well.....I don't know. Is there an RPO code that will tell me that? I guess I could dig out the window sticker. Seems like all of the Diesels would be 145 amps with 2 batteries and all.
Click to expand...

I am not sure for the 2001 model year.

btfarm said:
I'd sure like to know that myself before I go get (or order) one. I can look tomorrow when I dig out the window sticker I guess...
Click to expand...

Mike: If you have one alternator you have a 145 amp, if you have dual alternators you have twin 105 amp. The link above should work for our 2006 model years. http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/gatk061195hd.html
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
I am not sure for the 2001 model year.



Mike: If you have one alternator you have a 145 amp, if you have dual alternators you have twin 105 amp. The link above should work for our 2006 model years. http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/gatk061195hd.html
Click to expand...
Did they drop the single 105A version? That is what came on my 02. I put the larger one on when the original went bad. It was a direct replacement but is a larger diameter.
I am running a Prestone belt on mine. Paid $2 for it on Amazon. :hihi:
 
Heartbeat Hauler said:
Well.....I don't know. Is there an RPO code that will tell me that? I guess I could dig out the window sticker. Seems like all of the Diesels would be 145 amps with 2 batteries and all.
Click to expand...

Jeff the 2001 trucks only came with 105 and 130 amp alternators...your RPO code on the glove box should be k68 for 105 amp alternator.

supposedly the snow plow prep pkg changed it over to 130amp

some have reported that their sticker says 130 amp option...

but if your glove box rpo code is k68 it is a 105 amp...
 
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